Welded Diff.?

[ZFast300Z]

what about driving in the rain, do you ever do that? sneeze and you could be facing the wrong direction!
for a street car, its just not good. what exactly are you trying to accomplish?

Driving in the rain on a Kaaz = same as driving a welded.

 

[Orion ZyGarian]

Weld it. Just do it.

Unless you have the money to spend, then get a 2-way.

But if you don't want to spend the money, just weld it. And make sure it's welded well or it could break.

And it's not that bad to drive on the street. If you know how to drive a car, it won't be any problem. I think that most of the people complaining or saying don't do it have never driven a car with a welded diff.

Oh and stock diff, even rebuilt, isn't worth it, at all. It sucks.

This post disappoints me so. :3d_frown: Your posts are always informative about doing the RIGHT thing. This one is just the opposite.

Welding a diff is the cheap (and inexpensive) way to fix a problem that should be fixed correctly. You have to disassemble everything to get that far anyways, so why not do it the right way with some spiral gears or a clutch pack? Torsens apparently dont hold up quite as well as the clutch pack LSDs, which IMO are preferable anyways, though technically wear out over time.

Welded diffs on the street are just dumb. You'll be laughed at because your car is doing it wrong and killing your tires unnecessarily. If nothing else, since real race cars and no factory car has come with it, that might boost the whole "its a bad idea" thing. Permanent solution to a problem only sometimes there.

Also, IIRC, Duane is using a factory rebuilt diff on his car...again, good enough for me.

 

[upgradedsupra]

Correct ^^, OEM diff here. Next diff for me if this breaks may be an OS Giken super locker. Kaze, TRD and Cusco make a diff as well.

Welded diff FTL.

I think that most of the people complaining or saying don't do it have never driven a car with a welded diff.

Oh and stock diff, even rebuilt, isn't worth it, at all. It sucks.

Driven a few on the street and they're horrible. The OEM diff is one thing that hasn't broken on my car. (not to say it won't) Many that have an OEM diff break them because of age or years of abuse. (which you would expect to break it anyway)

Duane

 

[SupaMan]

factory rebuilt with thicker shims so it locks a lil better. and the CNC marlin crawler pinion spacer!!

i already have the pinion spacer. i didnt have the money to redo the clutches and shims last time or i would have but its on my list for down the road.

 

[Zer0DeGreeZ]

It can be even a more deadlier situation, wet road tight mountain turn steap edge your wife is driving your car for the first time because you had to much to drink at a party
kids in the back and no one hears from the family in a couple days dont do it!!!

Drama Queen! And all that just just to say it's not safe? Not to mention that your saying this to a guy that has no wife and would beat her with a wet noodle for having passed the thought of driving my car. Plus 90% of the people i know say my driving all in itself isn't safe, LMAO!

Forgive me but my Supra comes second only to my children, then my ex-wench (i would be banned for saying what i'd like to say about her, lol)

 

[Orion ZyGarian]

Care about the Supra enough to modify it correctly?

 

[SySt]

There is no correct or incorrect way of modifiying a car. If you want to put it in terms like that, then putting anything other than OEM parts on a car is "incorrect". As it has been said, there is nothing wrong with welding a differential. Just make sure you are aware of the effect it will have on your car, and make sure whoever does the welding is a good enough welder.

 

[black89t]

i wouldn't.


you won't be able to do ANY high speed driving. trust me. you don't want to hit a corner at 100+mph and have the both back tires tracking the at the same speed. it will break loose on you soooooooooooooo quick. YOU WILL DIE!


if money is tight then buy some 75 cent shims and enjoy having a tighter diff. just don't mix up the bearings, bearing caps, or shims and it will work fine. new clutch packs are only $200 if you didn't know......

 

[SySt]

The ratio between the turning radii of each wheel is decreased with the increase overall turning radius. Basically, if you were to pull 1G lateral acceleration at 30MPH and then 1G lateral acceleration at 100MPH, your chances of breaking loose are more at 30MPH. If you are cornering that hard at 100MPH you should have enough skill to handle whatever sort of differential you have. I pretty much mean if you are going to messing around like that you should also know how to handle a situation when you are sliding.

 

[Orion ZyGarian]

There is no correct or incorrect way of modifiying a car. If you want to put it in terms like that, then putting anything other than OEM parts on a car is "incorrect". As it has been said, there is nothing wrong with welding a differential. Just make sure you are aware of the effect it will have on your car, and make sure whoever does the welding is a good enough welder.

I understand where you're getting at, and normally I'm not one to jump to one side or the other. I just feel that a welded diff will do more harm than good; in fact, it might cost more with the tires you'll have to replace more frequently than to get a clutch pack or Torsen.

 

[Poodles]

You all act like the stock diff is weak or expensive to rebuild. It's neither.

The ONLY big fault in Toyota's design is the stupid ass crush sleeves. Replace it with a spacer and unless you're a crazy bastard like IJ and do top end runs for long periods of time (and in that case, it's the pinion bearings that failed and it wouldn't matter WTF you did to the diff) it will hold up.

Read this and bookmark it, it's the best info out there: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=430339

 

[black89t]

The ratio between the turning radii of each wheel is decreased with the increase overall turning radius. Basically, if you were to pull 1G lateral acceleration at 30MPH and then 1G lateral acceleration at 100MPH, your chances of breaking loose are more at 30MPH. If you are cornering that hard at 100MPH you should have enough skill to handle whatever sort of differential you have. I pretty much mean if you are going to messing around like that you should also know how to handle a situation when you are sliding.

go talk to any expert and ask them if a weld diff is safe at high speeds. its not a matter of skill when your differential does differ the speed between each wheel. :3d_frown:

if you have ever driven anything that has the same characteristics you would know. for example a racing quad like a banshee or 450. they have solid axle. try that on the pavement. try at about 3rd around a corner. your back end will want to break loose or your inside tire will hop. then 5th in the banshee or 4th on the 450 around that corner and your rear end is so ridged all it will want to do is flip compared to if it could vary the speed between each wheel it would be very stable. its a matter of facts.......

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

The ratio between the turning radii of each wheel is decreased with the increase overall turning radius. Basically, if you were to pull 1G lateral acceleration at 30MPH and then 1G lateral acceleration at 100MPH, your chances of breaking loose are more at 30MPH. If you are cornering that hard at 100MPH you should have enough skill to handle whatever sort of differential you have. I pretty much mean if you are going to messing around like that you should also know how to handle a situation when you are sliding.

Either way if it breaks loose at 100+mph your dead.
At ~30mph 99% chance you & supra will walk away.

Its very dangerous the wheel never change speed between the two meaning at least 1 must break traction in any significant turn

on LSD it just means it takes more force then usual but will travel different speeds into a turn

but on LSD you get the benny of applying traction to both tires going the same direction if even one slips so if one is slipping in the mud it wont be the one spinning while the other one is stationary like on an open diff.

Go with LSD

Also if you use welded gears it puts alot more stress on the rear suspension the rear bottom A arm or end link will bend or snap.
You also put a lot of stress on the subframe mounts.

It wont break right away but if your in a dangerous situation and you put forces on it that are usually never on it, that will be the time it will fail I have some picture to proove that!

Here is what happened to mine luckily it broke near the end if it would have sooner I would be dead.

Sorry but all I could find is a picture of the good one I used the area I circled is the part that bent & twisted when my white car spun out.

 

[SySt]

Well, I guess you guys have it all figured out...:3d_frown:

Of course any considered an expert will deem a welded differential unsafe. They are held accountable for what they deem safe, they don't want to be liable for what might happen. On the same note, I would bet that same "expert" would deem it unsafe to drive around a "2-way" LSD at high speeds. So I guess that doesn't really prove any point.

As a matter of fact I was riding with my ex-roommate in his 240z with a welded differential sliding around at 80+ around some curves with curbs on either side. We didn't hit anything, nor did he really even have an issue controlling it. Oh, and I have slid back and forth in my Supra starting at 120 going down to about 50. So you are wrong, it's a matter of facts.

 

[black89t]

Well, I guess you guys have it all figured out...:3d_frown:

Of course any considered an expert will deem a welded differential unsafe. They are held accountable for what they deem safe, they don't want to be liable for what might happen. On the same note, I would bet that same "expert" would deem it unsafe to drive around a "2-way" LSD at high speeds. So I guess that doesn't really prove any point.

As a matter of fact I was riding with my ex-roommate in his 240z with a welded differential sliding around at 80+ around some curves with curbs on either side. We didn't hit anything, nor did he really even have an issue controlling it. Oh, and I have slid back and forth in my Supra starting at 120 going down to about 50. So you are wrong, it's a matter of facts.

LOL. aren't you cool.............and i doubt you have had the back end swap around with you at 120. i don't think any mk3 will break the tires loose at 120. maybe in a 1000hp viper......

 

[SySt]

LOL. aren't you cool.............and i doubt you have had the back end swap around with you at 120. i don't think any mk3 will break the tires loose at 120. maybe in a 1000hp viper......

I said starting at 120 down to 50... Doesn't that imply deceleration? I had a stock CT26 with bolt ons, obviously I didn't have enough power to break the tires loose like that. I broke the car loose with braking and steering.

You are no longer arguing rationally. You might as well just not continue to reply to this post if you are just going to use sarcasm.

 

[CordiaDOHC]

A lot of you are really stuck in your ways.

To the OP. Go ahead and weld the diff. Your wanting to go drifting this is a way many drifters are doing it. Hell its a way many drag racers have done it for decades. Half the people posting in this thread have likely never even been in a car with a locker/spool/welded diff. Its honestly streetable just annoying when you hear "chirp chirp chirp" when making a turn. Ive rode in and driven a few cars with welded and spooled rears. its not that bad of a thing. Drove my buddies spooled 68 chevelle on the highway around some of the turns at 80mph and was just fine couldnt really tell the rear was spooled other than a very slight push but hell that was probably as much the smaller lighter front tires for the drag racing.

 

[IJ.]

Turned into a pissing contest.... :nono: