ok heres my problem....the very end of the actuator rod broke and is no longer conected to the wastegate..is it ok to drive with it disconnected? also would welding a small washer on the end (basically the hole at then end is only half there cause the very tip broke off) be a safe way to remedy the probelm without buying a new one? thanks for the help.
Watsegate Actuator Question
- Thread starter Dilligaf
- Start date
you will be hitting fuel cut when driving with the wastegate disconected, i guess you can drive it but you wont pass 3k rpm.
Errr... actually, with the rod disconnected you just won't be able to build any boost. You should be perfectly fine to drive it like that, as long as you can put up with the sluggish performance.
Welding on a washer should fix it nicely.
Welding on a washer should fix it nicely.
Grim x 2. If the end has broken enough though, that when you put on the washer that it shortens the length, be prepaired for a little more boost.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Hey, this could be the new "cut off your old hole, weld on a washer way to shim the wastegate mod..."
Just kidding!
Another option is to remove your actuator, and replace it...
Short of that you will need three things.
Anvil.
Hammer
Drill.
Remove your actuator.
With the hammer, flatten the end of the rod just behind the original hole.
Now drill out a new hole in your now flat space on the rod. (This will shim your wastegate, and does not require a welder..)
Get ready for higher boost pressure however. A few mm here might not throw you into fuel cut territory, but more than that will get you very close, if not over the point where your drawing in too much air.
Another option? Cut off the screwed up end, and thread it. Now use a threaded end/eyelet to attach your rod. Shazam! You just created an adjustable boost level actuator for the stock setup.... (Sorry about the 70's refference to a TV hero..) Oh yeah, your threaded area has to be long enough to accomdate your end, and a lock nut to keep it in place. (Might not be needed as the stock design is pinned in place, and our actuators use a curved rod that does not rotate..)
Just kidding!
Another option is to remove your actuator, and replace it...
Short of that you will need three things.
Anvil.
Hammer
Drill.
Remove your actuator.
With the hammer, flatten the end of the rod just behind the original hole.
Now drill out a new hole in your now flat space on the rod. (This will shim your wastegate, and does not require a welder..)
Get ready for higher boost pressure however. A few mm here might not throw you into fuel cut territory, but more than that will get you very close, if not over the point where your drawing in too much air.
Another option? Cut off the screwed up end, and thread it. Now use a threaded end/eyelet to attach your rod. Shazam! You just created an adjustable boost level actuator for the stock setup.... (Sorry about the 70's refference to a TV hero..) Oh yeah, your threaded area has to be long enough to accomdate your end, and a lock nut to keep it in place. (Might not be needed as the stock design is pinned in place, and our actuators use a curved rod that does not rotate..)
Thanks alot for the help. I was kind of scared when he posted about overboosting and hitting fuel cut because i have driven it little ways taking it easy and it didn't seem to build anything...thought mayber my wastegate was junk...not sure how it worked exactly. I just just got the car wednesday and on the way home blew of the intake pipe comping off the compressor output. had to unbolt the actuator to get the the clamp and thats how the rod tip broke off. The idea of making it and adjustable rod seems nice but right now all i want is stock reliability with it so i guess not. anyways thanks again for the help