water pump question
- Thread starter mk3forme
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For those of you who think anti-freeze is all that’s needed to stop corrosion, try a little test. Get yourself a glass container of anti-freeze and put in a piece of bare steel set it outside for a couple of weeks and come back and tell us the results. I think you’ll have a different perspective of antifreeze after that. Now are there anti-freeze's that contain GOOD anti-corrosive inhibitors Yes, and the only one I have seen that actually works and I have experience with is Honda 50/50 mix. I've opened up dirt bikes that have used this brand after sitting in the garage for years and found zero evidence of corrosion. I always find that amazing cause I’ve seen cars that sat for less than a year and the water/anti-freeze became almost solid rust. The stuff most folks buy at the auto parts store is not in that category from my experience. Stopping corrosion take a few different things like, good anti-freeze that contains de-ionized water, a burp bottle that works and a radiator cap that is low pressure so that when the engine is hot it burps out the air bubbles and once it begins to cool down and the water volume is shrinking it sucks in the water from your burp bottle. Air bubbles trapped in your system do two bad things, one, is water mixed with air is a very bad heat remover, two, air in the water also contributes to the corrosion process. So knowing that not everyone has the tits running system having a SS impeller sure can't hurt. On my Van which is my toy hauler and sits a lot I installed a SS water filter housing that uses a 150 micron cotton cartridge filter, and spliced it into my heater hose. No Semi on the highway is without a water filtration system since there radiators can cost thousands. Water filters are cheap insurance against all kinds of water related funkiness on any vehicle.
Adjuster, just to clarify, the water pump never stops circulating the water even when the thermostat is closed. When the thermostat is open it circulates it into the radiator and when it closes continues circulate the water in the block. This is where the question of cavitation comes in. I've wondered aloud on this site in a few different posts about the cavitation playing a major role in BHG's. I would like to know if anyone has done any studies on this subject such as measure flows at different engine speeds to see if when you’re getting on your throttle is the water being circulated enough to remove the extra heat. Also after a hard run and now your just cruising is the water being circulated enough to remove all that extra heat just generated from getting on it? Or is the impellor cavitating at lower rpms thus allowing dangerous heat build up to cause the BHG's. Anyone have any water flow test results out there I think we would all love to see.
I get my SS Filter housings at McMaster.com, go to page 347 and you'll see Bottom-Load Single Filter-Cartridge Housings. I use the long one pn 43715K42 on my van and bought thr short one pn 43715K41 for my Supra, havent put it on yet though. Then I use this filter 4411K201 on the 10" housing. I'm adding a link to some info on what the semi's use also.
http://www.wixfilters.com/productinformation/gff_coolantfilters.html
http://www.carterrv.com/e350coolantfilter/e350coolantfilter.asp
http://www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/faqs/faqhdcool.htm
http://www.wixfilters.com/productinformation/gff_coolantfilters.html
http://www.carterrv.com/e350coolantfilter/e350coolantfilter.asp
http://www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/faqs/faqhdcool.htm
thanks for the info. But thats $117 just for the filter casing and then the filter. I also didnt see where this was designed to filter coolant. It just sais water based fluids. Wouldnt it have been just as easy and cheap to get a spin on type like the WIX sight has. Im sure its a positive for the cooling system, but not an exactly cheap upgrade for something, at least I have never heard of. Good info none the less. I enjoy learningsuprageezer said:
I’ve used the kind used on the semis also (wix spin on type) they have a little late with a 1/8” hole on the output of the filter, at least the ones I bought from Filter Engineering did, but what I wanted was a full flow since my van sits allot and then when we do use it to haul our trailer to the desert its winter time and I didn’t want anything slowing down the flow of hot water to the heater core. True its allot of dough, but it can go from car to car if you sell yours., For me it's just cheap ass insurance and one more thing I don’t have to worry about. The spin on Wix type is just as good, sheesh anything that can help keep a coolant system free of debris is a good thing cause debris ends up in the radiator. Some folks use that screen thing in between the radiator and the thermostat housing, that’s a good catcher for large roaming chunks but you need to check it often to keep it clean and free flowing.
I didnt think about that. Definitely dont want to restrict flow with that small hole on the spin on.