Various problems including adjusting timing and installing the jumper did nothing.

jon6.0

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Sep 16, 2007
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I have a 1985 4-Runner that has a 1990 7 MGTE swapped into it. I've been reading over this forum quite a bit and have replaced the spark plugs and tried to set the timing.

When I put in a jumper wire where it says it does nothing for where the timing mark is. So I set it to 10 BTC anyway and it now runs like poop and falls on it's face when you try to give it gas and get into boost. In fact the motor makes a kind of BLAAAAHHHHH sound. I think I just retarded the crap out of the timing.

Any ideas on why the jumper didn't do anything for me?

Should I just replace the TPS? I read that it may go bad and I have no idea how many miles are on this thing.

Also worth noting is that the previous owner didn't hook up the check engine light when they did the swap. So I have no idea how to check for codes.

It also idles at 450rpm when it's cold and 900rpm when it warms up. Even when warm it will almost die if you stab the gas and rev it up. When the rpms come back down it goes real low(like 200rpm) then comes back up to 900 rpm.

Another thing is that it isn't snappy when you press the gas in idle. It has a slight hesitation to it. It also feels like it may be missing a little on acceleration under boost.

I just got this truck a week ago and I am trying to learn how to fix it myself as I don't want to pay a mechanic what I should be able to learn and do myself.
 

veedubin

Official SM Decals
jon6.0 said:
I have a 1985 4-Runner that has a 1990 7 MGTE swapped into it. I've been reading over this forum quite a bit and have replaced the spark plugs and tried to set the timing.

When I put in a jumper wire where it says it does nothing for where the timing mark is. So I set it to 10 BTC anyway and it now runs like poop and falls on it's face when you try to give it gas and get into boost. In fact the motor makes a kind of BLAAAAHHHHH sound. I think I just retarded the crap out of the timing.

Any ideas on why the jumper didn't do anything for me?

Should I just replace the TPS? I read that it may go bad and I have no idea how many miles are on this thing.

Also worth noting is that the previous owner didn't hook up the check engine light when they did the swap. So I have no idea how to check for codes.

It also idles at 450rpm when it's cold and 900rpm when it warms up. Even when warm it will almost die if you stab the gas and rev it up. When the rpms come back down it goes real low(like 200rpm) then comes back up to 900 rpm.

Another thing is that it isn't snappy when you press the gas in idle. It has a slight hesitation to it. It also feels like it may be missing a little on acceleration under boost.

I just got this truck a week ago and I am trying to learn how to fix it myself as I don't want to pay a mechanic what I should be able to learn and do myself.


Not sure how you have things set up, If you have the Supra cluster look for the Check engine light. It sounds like knock sensors going nutz.... might be a wiring issue or possibly bad sensors. that will affect your timing greatly. the rest of it sound a bit timing realted. So check it out starting with the knock sensors, then move on to the other problems. Search for the knock sensor rewire thread... great info

Good luck
 

jon6.0

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Sep 16, 2007
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It has the 4-Runner cluster and I don't think the Check Engine Light is wired up. Anyone know how to wire in a Check Engine Light?
 

jon6.0

New Member
Sep 16, 2007
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It's amazing how much better this thing runs when you have all of the injectors firing. I found the front injector(#1 I think) not connected. That explains why that plug looked fouled.

I also adjusted the TPS by moving it until I had a ohm reading at shut throttle and had a infinite reading when you cracked the throttle slightly.

I found that the previous owner just took off the EGR assembly and didn't bother to install any block off plates. So I'm off to meet Andy from Arizona Performance and get one of his. This also explains why the previous owner said they can adjust boost down to zero with the manual boost controller. That hole is just blowing boost out of it. Also explains the rich condition since I am loosing air volume that the AFM thinks is there.
 

jon6.0

New Member
Sep 16, 2007
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Evening update. Put on the EGR blockoff plate. What a total PITA that was. This thing hauls butt now. On a dirt road as soon as the boost starts hitting it starts going sideways if you keep in it. All this with a detroit locker, 37" tires, and 8 psi. Tommorow I am also going to turn it up to 12 psi and see how she does.