Upgrade Decisions - 2Jz or 7mGTE built motor for 450whp +

Justin727

Justin727

T-virus infected
Mar 31, 2005
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GPT/BILOXI, Ms.
www.crescentcitysupras.com
I personally chose to stay with my 7m for several reason's.

1. the cost i've built my 7M for as say buying a 2j swap came out just about the same. So my motor is prepared to throw large amounts of boost and power at.

2. after the cost of the swap and collecting most of the parts for the 2j you'd be buying aftermarket fast parts for the 7m.

3. by the time you bought all your go fast parts for the 2j and pull out 500hp out of it, don't be suprised if you pull out more out of the 7m.

4. btw if you are planning to do the swap and can do it all for under 2000.00 do it. but remember JDM 2jz-gte's aren't 320hp... So pretty much you got a glorified 1j under the hood...

Both Flavors are nice choose your taste and be happy with what you have. personally I wouldn't ask the opinions of others because you'll get answers leaning towards both motors. DO WHAT YOU WANT.
 
S

supra1

Supraholic
Oct 19, 2007
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EwwK
DonS1mpson said:
"Building it for boost" is little more than slapping on another HG, which you planned to do on a GTE anyway.

The effort going for going GE will be recouped when you factor in hunting down all of those little parts that you won't get with the GTE long block.

Anyway, give this a read:
http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10

This too

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34525
Click to expand...

Thanks Don
nice links and very informative. I have posted a copy of the summary of the difference between the two motors below (from clubna-t.com)

Copied from and courtesy of Clubna-t.com said:
Some Differences between the 2JZ GE and 2JZ GTE
The style of intake manifold, the GE has a manifold developed for more torque development in the lower-part of the rpm band vs the GTE's short runner type. The GE doesnt have more torque; its just that it develops more than it would if it had a GTE-style intake manifold. Hope you knew that.

-Compression, the GE runs a 10:1 compression ratio and the GTE runs a 8.5:1 compression ratio. The differences are obtained through a thicker headgasket (.2mm for GE vs 1.6mm for GTE) and lower compression pistons on the GTE. The higher compression allows the GE motor to make the most of its power since it lacks turbos to begin with.

-Injectors and Airflow sensors, the GE runs 330cc top-feed high impedance Denso-style injectors and uses a Karman Vortex air-metering sensor to read how much air volume is being injested. The GTE runs 540cc side-feed low impedance injectors (though uses a resistor pak to raise the impedance for the ECU's sake)... measured through a hotwire MAF sensor. The GE's airflow restriction is around 450hp from the stock AFM and the GTE is around 650-700hp depending on several factors.

-The heads are slightly different. Some say the GE flows better than the GTE, though no concrete numbers have come from a flowbench to prove it. The GTE motor has larger intake ports on the head whereas the GE has larger exhaust ports on the head. You make your own decisions.

-The exhaust manifold and intake manifolds port spacing and studs are completely different and will not work with one another unless some machining is involved with the manifolds themselves. There are people who have successfully grafted the upper part of the GTE intake manifold onto the lower part of the GE manifold.

-The GE motor runs a distributor-based ignition system with spark plug wires and a single coil. The GTE runs coil-on-plug ignition with individual coils for every plug. The distributor gets in the way somestimes of the turbo intake pipe

there are many little others such as the GTE has oil squirters, different oil feed/return lines etc
Click to expand...

After reading this article I am fully decided if I go 2JZ it will 1000% be the 2JZGTE without question :naughty:
Too many things lacking and different on the GE to change and make it worthwhile, seeing as I have a choice before I start as to which route to take...
For the extra $1500-$2k or so with ancilleries, as a engine base package, I will have a much easier upgrade path IMHO using the GTE


Justin 727/

Thanks for the input. Some interesting points here.
I think your right, the 2jz will definately end up costing me more, but I am swaying towards that route the more I look into this :naughty:

if I do go that route then my rwhp desires will go upwards to compensate for the extra cost and effort!

I am very glad I started this thread because you guys have made some valid points and given me some very useful information, at the end of the day I think this will have to be done on a 'what do I want' basis, and Im very close to having made a decision :naughty:

Are parts prices between the motors vastly different?

(eg/ engine gasket set, engine rebuild kit, oil pump etc)
 
J

jugodegolf

Supramania Contributor
Apr 5, 2005
2,369
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Phoenix,AZ, United States
See sig.

+500 isn't cheap either way. If you go w/used 7m and add the go fast parts big ??? on reliability. Full build on 7m is about same cost as used 2jz which will probably handle more than stock 7m as already proven. Good luck either way.
 
S

supra1

Supraholic
Oct 19, 2007
58
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EwwK
Decision made.
Im going to buy the 2Jzgte lump and see where I end up :evil2:
I will start a thread upon commencing the 2jz rebuild and motor swap (when I have acquired all the bits...)

thanks for the input guys :)
 
madsupra88

madsupra88

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Sep 17, 2005
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Detroit,MI
I dunno, as much as i love the 2j series, and since you already made your decision, i still stick with the 7m. i proly put 3500 - 4000 into the 7m and i will gurantee atleast a 10 sec pass :)
 
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foreverpsycotic

Back in the game!
Jul 16, 2006
3,171
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madsupra88 said:
I dunno, as much as i love the 2j series, and since you already made your decision, i still stick with the 7m. i proly put 3500 - 4000 into the 7m and i will gurantee atleast a 10 sec pass :)
Click to expand...

LOL, GL with that, unless you are already starting with an strong auto box (th350/400) and a set of forged internals, then you might be able to get by with 4k for the standalone, turbo, manifold, downpipe, exhaust, tuning, headwork, cams...

A 10 sec car costs more than 4k, trust me (its my goal a few years to come)

All I will need after 08 is a 10pt cage and a th350 setup.
 
The1

The1

Too poor to be here..:(
May 24, 2007
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Austin, TX
suprarcr89 said:
last 7m i rebuilt for a buddy.. machine work and all the parts only costed him 1500 and that got him rebuilt bottom end rebuilt head with metal headgasket......thats alot cheaper than a 1j or 2j swap and you have a fresh engine not a used engine....
Click to expand...
It sure would be nice to get a deal like that down here...folks, I've spoken with have tried to over charge me and I'm not savvy enough to work on engine (but can fix electronics on a F-16..*shrugs*) If I can get a good price on a rebuild I will stick with my 7M but the prices I've been given, isht, I can do a swap with a few upgrades. *shrugs*
 
madsupra88

madsupra88

BoOoOoST
Sep 17, 2005
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foreverpsycotic said:
LOL, GL with that, unless you are already starting with an strong auto box (th350/400) and a set of forged internals, then you might be able to get by with 4k for the standalone, turbo, manifold, downpipe, exhaust, tuning, headwork, cams...

A 10 sec car costs more than 4k, trust me (its my goal a few years to come)

All I will need after 08 is a 10pt cage and a th350 setup.
Click to expand...

Would you like me to explain what i have done!!!!

WEisco pistons, with coated skirts
Eagle rods
Crank is poilished/balanced
Block bored 20 over, decked, balanced etc..
1000 cc inj
external fuel pump
2sp Powerglide ( Got it cheap off of my bro// was in his vette)
FFIM (Did it myself)
Huge FMIC
MHG ARP hardware all around
The head was fully CNC'd To get maximum flow out of it...
Custom cams with a HUGE lift
T70 turbo
ss mani
External 50mm wastegate
Emanage blue

The above list was done with $4300, i have recieps and everything to prove,.,.

There a few things left to get ex. lines, hoses thats bout it

I can go on all day
Ofcourse i did half the work my self but TRUST ME it's really not as expensive as people would say! You just gotta know how to/ where to buy. you gotta have connections to things bro. not everything has to be professionaly done by a shop!!

** Although i did have a NOS fogger kit from before thats not calculated in there ** :evil:
 
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