Update: 7/12/09- White car stripped for paint

[miekedmr]

I gave it some thought, but I've heard horror stories about the foam breaking away from the chassis and making terrible, terrible squeaking noises. I don't mind road noise, or suspension travel noise, but squeaking would drive me bugshit, as Ian would say. LOL.

Hmm.. I'd be curious what kind of foam they used, how much they put in, etc. Also, whether some kind of prep might be able to prevent that. (Like sand blasting the insides to get a better surface to grab on or something.)

Most of what I've read about it has been good, there's just lots of warnings against using generic expanding foam versus the two-part.

http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?p=1392938

I still plan on doing it, so I'll let you know my results in about 5 years when I get to that point.

 

[Slow66]

Very interesting. I would definitely pad them, that's for sure. Hey Bryan, how much we talkin' for something like this?

As Poo said, The main hoop is behind your head, so no danger for your melon there, and the door bars should definitely be padded.

Pricing would depend mostly on the material...(sourced from S&W race cars)

8 point 1 3/4" DOM $399 pn - 11-5070-DOM
8 point 1 5/8" Moly $499 pn - 11-5570-CM

Dom = MIG welded (cheaper labor) Moly = TIG ($$$ )

Or, I could source straight tubing and build one from scratch, if you really want to be a baller. Also if you want to add in swing-out door bars, that adds a few dollars on there. Also, If you want it to an SCCA spec instead of an NHRA spec, we can certainly make that work, depending on your goals with the car. If it's a route you end up wanting to take, let me know and we can crunch #'s. If you want the car to be stiffer than Ian on the little blue pill, then a cage is the only way to go...

 

[Poodles]

I'd go DOM personally...

if you're ever seen some of the cages they put in crazy Mercedes or BMW's, they pad it, then wrap it with leather and stitch it up. Looks nuts...

 

[tbcmorris]

for certain certifactions you need to be moly

 

[MDCmotorsports]

for certain certifactions you need to be moly

Like?...........

 

[tbcmorris]

for some drag facing applications, nhra reguires the entire cage to be moly if you have one mild steel bar anywhere they fail it....this is for cars with tube chassis and funny car cages...dont know much about street cage rules at the track, i havent work with one in a while

The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing


thats fo 9.99 or 135 trap speeds


what i think i messed up on is you cant mix materials. what i get from that sentance is it has to be one or the other. mild steel obviously having to be thicker

 

[shaeff]

Hmm.. I'd be curious what kind of foam they used, how much they put in, etc. Also, whether some kind of prep might be able to prevent that. (Like sand blasting the insides to get a better surface to grab on or something.)

Most of what I've read about it has been good, there's just lots of warnings against using generic expanding foam versus the two-part.

http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?p=1392938

I still plan on doing it, so I'll let you know my results in about 5 years when I get to that point.

I have no idea what they used. Maybe I'll look into that as well. Thanks for the link.

As Poo said, The main hoop is behind your head, so no danger for your melon there, and the door bars should definitely be padded.

Pricing would depend mostly on the material...(sourced from S&W race cars)

8 point 1 3/4" DOM $399 pn - 11-5070-DOM
8 point 1 5/8" Moly $499 pn - 11-5570-CM

Dom = MIG welded (cheaper labor) Moly = TIG ($$$ )

Or, I could source straight tubing and build one from scratch, if you really want to be a baller. Also if you want to add in swing-out door bars, that adds a few dollars on there. Also, If you want it to an SCCA spec instead of an NHRA spec, we can certainly make that work, depending on your goals with the car. If it's a route you end up wanting to take, let me know and we can crunch #'s. If you want the car to be stiffer than Ian on the little blue pill, then a cage is the only way to go...

LOL! Putting a cage in this car is a serious possibility. I'll have to shoot you a PM soon.

I'd go DOM personally...

if you're ever seen some of the cages they put in crazy Mercedes or BMW's, they pad it, then wrap it with leather and stitch it up. Looks nuts...

Any reason you prefer DOM?

I've seen some of the cages you speak of, they look incredible!

 

[shaeff]

Oh, and pics for today:

Check my kickass ride height. Yeah, it brings a whole new meaning to "4x4":








Pulled more asphalt matte. Just have the tranny tunnel left to do. The heat gun makes it easy, but still time consuming. The rubber gloves you see in some of the pics were used for the front driver's side. Apparently, the previous owner spilled something toxic in the driver's side front floorboard. The carpet was eaten through, and when I touched it with my bare hands, it burned like a mother*ucker. When I put the heat gun near it, smoke would billow out of the asphalt matte, so I had to be extremely careful. Note the rust around the unplugged body hole- definitely a chemical spill of some sort:












Bucket o junk I pulled out. Just a rough estimate, I'd say it weighs around 50lbs, and I still have the front of the tranny tunnel to do:

 

[Poodles]

Couple articles like this: http://www.dragracingonline.com/burksblast/ix_9-3.html

DOM is safer...

 

[shaeff]

Cool. Thanks.

A little update, but no pics: I've got ALL the asphalt matte out. I got the tranny tunnel done yesterday. Now I just need to figure out where to go from here.

And my box-o-crap is HEAVY! I bet it weighs 60lbs!

 

[Slow66]

Couple articles like this: http://www.dragracingonline.com/burksblast/ix_9-3.html

DOM is safer...

Well, let's not compare the loads of a 8000+hp nitro funny car to a 500hp street car....

Nascar's use mig-welded DOM in 3500lb cars that can crash at 200mph. So DOM certainly is safe when done properly, no one can dispute that, but safER depends on the whole package...

 

[shaeff]

Sending you a PM, Bryan. I wanna get this cage in before winter, and hopefully get the interior painted. I'm tired of staring at a stripped out shell!

 

[zambini]

y0 wut 0ffset r thoze rimz? and whut sispinshin r u uzn? tiggity tight

 

[tlo86]

are we gonna see her running sometime 2010?

 

[shaeff]

y0 wut 0ffset r thoze rimz? and whut sispinshin r u uzn? tiggity tight

LOL. Crack kills!

are we gonna see her running sometime 2010?

The plan is to have it moving under it's own power, with the interior and engine bay complete by summer of 2010. Exterior paint will be the last thing to do. I've got 90% of the stuff I need to finish the car, just no time to actually work on it.

 

[buckshotglass]

Are you going to paint it yourself?

 

[tlo86]

time to quit you job. its interfering with your supra relationship.. Lol

 

[shaeff]

Are you going to paint it yourself?

I'll probably paint the interior myself. The exterior will be done by my paint guy. Perhaps the engine bay too- depends on how good the interior looks when I'm done with it.

time to quit you job. its interfering with your supra relationship.. Lol

LOL, truth!