Slow66 said:I have a couple used ones i can sell...If any of you guys want one, lemme know.
How much???
Two stepping?
- Thread starter TargaMK3Turbo
- Start date
How much???
So will the MSD Dis 6 work too?, I assume it will have to be set up as a 3 cyl and have each output split into two cylinders, and run as a waste spark setup?. I have a 1jz which will be a little different.
Slow, pm me with a price on the Dis 4.
Slow, pm me with a price on the Dis 4.
becauseican said:
Randy,
There is no DIS 6 that i am aware of. There is a Digital-6 box, but it is not meant for distributorless ignitions. The DIS 4 is the only one that will work. It would still be waste spark also. Unfortunately I sold the MSD boxes on ebay last week.
Knife, the rev limiter is adjustable by dip switches on the side of the box.
Bryan: A dis4+dis2 will give you 6 cylinder sequential
(I ran 2 x dis4's as mu supplier gave me a deal on the second one)
It gets bulky though as they're HUGE.
(I ran 2 x dis4's as mu supplier gave me a deal on the second one)
It gets bulky though as they're HUGE.
Yeah just like eveyone said you have to go msd dis-4 or map ecu. The Evo that you saw racing that had one only needs a chip burned into the ecu and a wire ran to the clutch. On my DSM I have the adjustable 2-step and no lift to shift, it is like a rev limiter that limits the revs to about 6krpm when the car is moving and the clutch is pressed in. I just wish it was that easy for the supra.
IJ. said:
Yep. We has 2x dis4's on Mellos car with the FAST ecu setup to run it sequential (which is what i was going to use). Worked very nicely.
For the 2-step feature (for the majority with stock ecu), as you well know, theres no need to run 2.
Hmm, good info.
While I'm at it, untill I get the box for 2 steping, I gotta learn to launch. I thought I'd just get some info on this thread being it's kinda about launching and it would be a waste to start another.
Would I be better off brake boosting (power braking?) off the starting line, or dumping the clutch? The car will be on slicks at the track so traction won't be an issue.
While I'm at it, untill I get the box for 2 steping, I gotta learn to launch. I thought I'd just get some info on this thread being it's kinda about launching and it would be a waste to start another.
Would I be better off brake boosting (power braking?) off the starting line, or dumping the clutch? The car will be on slicks at the track so traction won't be an issue.
TargaMK3Turbo said:
Assuming you're 5sp, theres no way to "brake boost" the car unless you're already moving. If you were in a "roll race", brake boosting would help you with spool by placing some load against the motor. This works well for autos at the track, because the converter can place a load on the motor without having to be in motion.
If you dump the clutch on the track with slicks that are at the proper psi, i can just about guarantee you end up with a mid 2 second 60' because of the tires bogging the motor down (unless youre on a 2 step and launching w/ boost, thats a different story). You'll have to do something along the lines of a "quick slip" of the clutch. Pre-stage the car, and then get your RPM's up to around 5k, slowly bring the car into the stage by just barely engaging the clutch. Once staged, then put your clutch foot just back at the point right before engagement. Keep your rpms consistent, (you can use it as a gauge on whether its not enough or too much when you get your timeslip). Once the lights drop, engage the clutch a bit and roll onto the gas, while gradually slipping the clutch out. The rate of each will vary depending on the track conditions, power, type of clutch, etc etc etc.
Another thing i recommend is to keep a log book with your timeslips. Write down youre tire pressure, rpm of launch, boost pressure, air temp, track temp, humidity, how long you're burnout was, basically any pertinent info that will make you more aware of how certain changes might affect your timeslip.
Get out there and race!
Slow66 said:Assuming you're 5sp, theres no way to "brake boost" the car unless you're already moving. If you were in a "roll race", brake boosting would help you with spool by placing some load against the motor. This works well for autos at the track, because the converter can place a load on the motor without having to be in motion.
If you dump the clutch on the track with slicks that are at the proper psi, i can just about guarantee you end up with a mid 2 second 60' because of the tires bogging the motor down (unless youre on a 2 step and launching w/ boost, thats a different story). You'll have to do something along the lines of a "quick slip" of the clutch. Pre-stage the car, and then get your RPM's up to around 5k, slowly bring the car into the stage by just barely engaging the clutch. Once staged, then put your clutch foot just back at the point right before engagement. Keep your rpms consistent, (you can use it as a gauge on whether its not enough or too much when you get your timeslip). Once the lights drop, engage the clutch a bit and roll onto the gas, while gradually slipping the clutch out. The rate of each will vary depending on the track conditions, power, type of clutch, etc etc etc.
Another thing i recommend is to keep a log book with your timeslips. Write down youre tire pressure, rpm of launch, boost pressure, air temp, track temp, humidity, how long you're burnout was, basically any pertinent info that will make you more aware of how certain changes might affect your timeslip.
Get out there and race!
I plan on getting alot of race time in once I finish properly breaking the car in.
I'm a pretty good driver, I put my near stock 98 mustang GT in low 14's which is outstandingly good being they are slow and it only had exhaust. Most go high 14's...
What I meant by brake boosting off the line was more of a power brake. Like having the car in 1st, then stopping with it in gear but the rpm's high enough not to stall or spin the tires.. By doing this, it still puts a load on the engine creating boost, right? Sounds dumb but it's just a thought as I'm in the learning process.
A friend of mine is helpin me out. I'm giving him my good yokohama es100 tires and he is going to roll my rear finders bc the rear offset on my Kazera's are too wide and when launching the tires smash the fenders bad.
I want to go with dragn radials bc i'm only driving the car for like 6 months outta the year and I don't drive it in the rain. A drag radial tire seems good to me be I can drive on it and take it dow the track.. Would this be better than the set of slicks I have? What drag radial do you recommend?
I think I'll just put drag radials in the rear and some regular street tires on the front, I can't rotate them rims/tires so why bother...
turbogate said:
If you were to calculate at which RPM you need to pevent the car from gong over in that gear to prevent you from speeding, then yes, it's entirely possible.
I love my 2-step. With street tires, I find it invaluble to have full control over the launch RPM though, so I can fine-tune it to the track. After 3 or 4 passes, it's dialed in just right so I don't spin, or bog. I can also adjust it down if my tires are cold.
So, I bought a MSD DIS 4, getting installed now.
What other features can the MSD DIS 4 do other than a 2 step?
What other features can the MSD DIS 4 do other than a 2 step?
Jag: 2step not at all it's an on demand thing
Antilag can be set up so it's functional for DD in a very mild form or you can crank it up for race starts.
Antilag can be set up so it's functional for DD in a very mild form or you can crank it up for race starts.
My two-step is programmed to disengage once I pass about 15km/h. I have NEVER had an issue with hitting the two-step under that speed.Jaguar said: