Turbo oil filter ideas (to filter the turbo feed)

[shaeff]

so, i'm becoming more and more obsessed with filtration. i know dual filter setups really aren't that spectacular, unless you set them up properly. (one pre-filter to remove all the huge stuff, and then something like a canton filter to grab all the tiny stuff?)

i was thinking about setting up a filter that's ONLY for the turbo. something like this guy's setup: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t202101.html

he's using something like a mobil m1-301/pha8 (large filter). i use a large filter (pha8 wix equivalent or the mobile m1-301) with my relocation/cooler/t-stat setup.

would it be wise to use one of our stock sized oil filters to filter the oil feed to the turbo? or should i get something that's specifically made for that purpose? (i was thinking a spin-on would be better because it's easy to change out, especially after initial startup on a new build)

so, please interject your ideas.

thanks,

-shaeff

 

[IJ.]

Ummm it's already filtered

 

[shaeff]

this is true. am i just being too anal here? are those smaller pre-turbo inline filters worth it? i know drjonez lost a turbo to debris. (at least i think that's what happened)

the extra insurance would make me rest easier, as i slowly modify this motor to it's limit, then start to build a new one.

-shaeff

 

[IJ.]

Below a certain size particles in the Oil can't cause wear (think it's 15 microns but not 100% due to faulty memory )

You can get too anal with this sort of thing and my concern would be the small inline filter hetting blocked in time and restricting flow without you knowing.

 

[shaeff]

^ exactly my point. that's why i did a little research on the spin-on setup.

8 microns, eh? that's some pretty small stuff for sure. maybe i'll make a bolt-on setup just for the initial startup when i do my "real" engine build, then remove it after i get the break-in complete.

i'm really just planning ahead, here.

-shaeff

 

[suprarich]

A few guys I know run an in-line filter on their ball bearing turbo, with the restrictor coming after the filter. Journal bearing turbo, I would not see the need.

 

[drjonez]

after my GT35R experience, i think it's a great idea. one of the DSM companies makes a nice inline filter....

 

[jdub]

Try these out for size

http://www.cmfilters.com/remote_filters/in-line_oil_filters.htm
Canton says it's an 8 micron filter...I'd check the flow rate to make sure you don't starve the turbo.

Several companies make screen type in-line oil filters; the filtration ability is between 80 and 150 microns...useful for stopping the big chunks. Earl's has one for -4 fittings.

A Mobil 1 filter is only good down to 30 microns...as are most spin-on full flows.

If you really want to filter your oil down to the sub 10 micron level, get a bypass filter and tap it into your cooler loop.

 

[Adjuster]

I was tempted to oil my turbo off the "exit" of the Autoguard bypass filter... But I was not sure of how much flow comes out of that bypass setup, so I did not do it that way.

I use that same Canton filter for all my engine oil. The bypass is fed off the filtered oil from the main galley. (Then it dumps that super clean oil back into the pan where the stock oil cooler dump is.)

This Canton filter will flow more than you whole 7M will ever need.

 

[supraguru05]

adjuster
how do you know when that thing needs to be replaced

 

[shaeff]

awesome. thanks for the info, fellas. i'm off to do a bit of reading.

as ian stated, the only thing about those inline filters is that you really never know when it's clogged. (aside from pulling it off and checking?) though, i suppose that after initial startup, you should just change it anyway)

(ian, i realized i made a typo in my first post, haha. fixed.)

-shaeff

 

[jdub]

Yep, a clogged in-line filter would be a bad thing

That's why a by-pass filter on a different loop works so well. It will make your oil analytically clean and since it's not in the full flow circuit of the pump, you don't have a flow problem when the filter reaches capacity.

 

[Adjuster]

Well, being a depth type filter v/s single pass paper, it's pretty hard to clog it up. Canton does reccomend that when you see a 2psi drop in pressure, to replace the filter.

What I've done is replace it after the build. There were some particles in there I'd rather not see in a new motor that was clean, but they are no longer in the motor now are they?

I'm on my second filter since the build. The oil stays cleaner than I'd have thought, but I belive that's the bypass filter more than the full flow Canton. (8 microns is awesome filtration, but the bypass cleans it up to the 1 micron or better level, so the filtered bypass oil is cleaner than when you poured it out of your oil container NEW.)

This second filter I did pull out and look over when I changed the oil last. No more metal particles, and it was hardly changed in color from the new material, so I made sure it was clean, no crap on the "engine side" of the filter and put it back in for another round. They do not reccomend cleaning them, but I just wiped off the ends, and made sure there was no debris on the engine side.

I have mine setup so it's easy to change the filter.
Remove the AN10 fitting.
Using compressed air, I blow the oil in the filter, cooler and lines into the pan where it can drain out.
Then remove the theaded end cap with the AN10 fitting.
Remove the filter. Inspect and replace or not.
Fill with oil at that point. (Pour in as much as possible, Use a funnel, and it takes more than one quart..)
Oh, forgot that I also dump/activate the 3 quart sump to flush out that oil too.
Ok, I should re-fill the sump, and then pressure up the engine before starting, but this one dry start at each oil change is not going to kill this motor I don't think, so I do start it up after filling the pan with 10 quarts of oil.
Oil pressure comes up very fast, a second or two at the most with no/low pressure. Then it's up to 80psi and I can hear the sump piston move with the oil flowing back in too, and the pressure gauge there is at 80+ psi too.

Shut down, and check the oil level, add till it's at the junction of the metal wire and flat reading part on the dipstick, and I'm good to go. (Turned off the sump of course before shutting down the motor, so it holds oil under pressure for the next start up.)

Procedure for starting.
Turn on ignition, the flip sump switch, watch oil pressure come up over 30psi, and start engine.

Only dry starts are when full sump oil changes are done.

I think these filters could go 50,000 miles or more, but I'll most likely change mine every year or two, depending on how many miles I put on the car. Redline oil really does not break down, and where it's filtered so well, it should be good for many, many miles. I might put some additive back in, or have it tested in a year to make sure it's still in good shape, but at 120.00 per oil change in just oil, this stuff does not get replaced every 3k.. No need.