Turbo is hot very very hot??

[Priest]

OK my turbo heat shield was off when i got the car . . .I just replaced the head gasket after having blown it . . .i didnt have the money to get arp head studs so i torqued the stock ones to 75 when i put them back in . ..I finally got the car running smoothly though i think it is idling a little too high. ..(about 850-900) but i have turned down the idle control sensor and the cps and that seems to be as low as it will go . ..I changed out my IC pipe with exaust flex pipe(2.5) and am still using the 3000 pipe. I changed my plugs to NGK vpower coppers and the car already had ngk wires so i left them. I also used a diagram i found here to make sure all of my vacuum lines were on correctly and they are with no leaks that i can find. i have a three inch custom downpipe witht the stock turbo elbow . .from the down pipe back i have 2.5 inch exaust with no cats(not a dayly driver . . .got a 240 for that) I dont have a hood on the car right now and my fan shroud is missing. I also used old crappy oil to flush the system before putting in royal purple 10w- 30 oil(good oil?) Now i have a few questions about this setup . . .One it seems to run great . . .much better than it did before if i am in drive and letting it shift on its own. When i manually shift from low to second gear if i tack it more than 5 grand the car back fires and bogs down till i let off the gas and the stock boost gauge is bending at this point . . .is this fuel cut? And now my second question . . .if i do this or simply leave the car running for a bout five minutes the turbo and manifold get hot enough to turn paper brown . . .paper never ignigted but i dont think being able to brown paper is good . . .is this normal?
and three . . .I have a pair of electric fans from a 2000 grand am that seems to be a perfect fit for my stock radiator and seeing as how i dont have a shoud would these cool better than the stock fan with no shroud?

Final question . . .if this is normal for the turbo to run that hot what kind of HP should i be expection from the mods above and is there anything that i am doing wrong that i should correct. I just want the car to run a flat 13 nothing more and i will be happy

 

[ms07s]

Reusing the old head bolts is not good. Factory head bolts have a tendency to strech and should only be used once so the torque reading you got was probably incorrect. Get new ones from toyota or bite the bullet and get arp hardware.

Do this not and ye shall receive ::bhg::


Get a heatsheld for your turbo and manifold. They help keep the heat out of the engine bay and away from rubber hoses. The manifold and turbo will get very hot from the 1000+ degree exhaust flowing through them so brown paper should be expected.:biglaugh:

 

[lagged]

stock head bolts are NOT reusable.

a healthy 7mgte will have pre turbo exhaust temps ~1300 degrees Fahrenheit.

there is no idle adjustment. there is a stop for the throttle plate that you DO NOT use to adjust the idle. if you moved the TPS, you moved it out of calibration and you have to recalibrate it using the method outlined in the TSRM.

this is not an insult so dont take it that way, you seem to not really know how to work on this car. you seem to be simply guessing and if you want your car to run right and last, you should stop working on it until you learn how this car works.

instead of randomly adjusting anything thats adjustable in the engine bay, use the TSRMs trouble shooting sections and follow each and every step.

 

[Priest]

Reusing the old head bolts is not good. Factory head bolts have a tendency to strech and should only be used once so the torque reading you got was probably incorrect. Get new ones from toyota or bite the bullet and get arp hardware.

Do this not and ye shall receive ::bhg::


Get a heatsheld for your turbo and manifold. They help keep the heat out of the engine bay and away from rubber hoses. The manifold and turbo will get very hot from the 1000+ degree exhaust flowing through them so brown paper should be expected.:biglaugh:

I am starting a new job next month and i will have a lot more money coming in. Will it hurt the headgasket that is already on it if i buy the arp head studs and change them out or will i need a new head gasket? i hate to do that job over again. so the turbo being that hot is normal? im sure i can find a heat shield somewhere at a junk yard . ..

 

[Priest]

stock head bolts are NOT reusable.

a healthy 7mgte will have pre turbo exhaust temps ~1300 degrees Fahrenheit.

there is no idle adjustment. there is a stop for the throttle plate that you DO NOT use to adjust the idle. if you moved the TPS, you moved it out of calibration and you have to recalibrate it using the method outlined in the TSRM.

this is not an insult so dont take it that way, you seem to not really know how to work on this car. you seem to be simply guessing and if you want your car to run right and last, you should stop working on it until you learn how this car works.

instead of randomly adjusting anything thats adjustable in the engine bay, use the TSRMs trouble shooting sections and follow each and every step.

First off . .no worries man i wont get offended . .thats why i joined this forum . ..to learn and i bought the haynes and chilton manual and that is what i used to change the head gasket as well as everything i could find on this forum. I am only now getting into doing work myself and i have come to the point where i live breath eat and sleep car . . .I am used to working on my 95 240, its engine layout and upkeep is so much simpler than the supra. I have had the supra since i graduated from highschool. I got is as a graduation gift. Several months later i blew the engine and ordered one from japan for 700 bucks. With the new job i wont be short on cash and i want the car to be done right. I would like to do it all myself and i think for the car to be running after i did all the work by myself with no experience with working on the supra was a pretty good job. I love this forum and the people who post here seem to have been my greatest resource. The way i figure since the supra is my project car and i have a DD i can risk doing all the work myself and learn as i go along. I will have the money to do it right. Now all i need to do is find the right person to talk to who can correct me when i do something wrong. As long as no one condescends me i wont be offended. Just understand that i am a noob with the heart of a mechanic and who is eager to learn what i can and am not afraid to do the work myself.

 

[ms07s]

I am starting a new job next month and i will have a lot more money coming in. Will it hurt the headgasket that is already on it if i buy the arp head studs and change them out or will i need a new head gasket? i hate to do that job over again. so the turbo being that hot is normal? im sure i can find a heat shield somewhere at a junk yard . ..

Not sure if you will or won't damage the E-Bay gasket but, I would ditch it in favor of a felpro with some ARP fasteners anyway. The studs have a better clamp rating but if your not going with a metal headgasket you don't really need more than the ARP bolts anyway.

I will probably get flamed making that remark but the bolts are more than sufficient for anything under 500hp. You won't need to send off the head for work or anything like that unless the HG is already blown. If you don't want to remove the head just get ARP bolts and swap them with the factory ones and you won't need to remove the head. Just remember the ARP bolts have a 12 point head and will require a 12point 14mm socket to put them on. You will have to rotate the crank to move the cams to get to some of the bolt locations. Follow the arp pre loading instructions and use the lube and then follow the torque down method in the TSRM.

TSRM...http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=IN&Page=1

sleepy edit-14mm

 

[Priest]

Not sure if you will or won't damage the E-Bay gasket but, I would ditch it in favor of a felpro with some ARP fasteners anyway. The studs have a better clamp rating but if your not going with a metal headgasket you don't really need more than the ARP bolts anyway.

I will probably get flamed making that remark but the bolts are more than sufficient for anything under 500hp. You won't need to send off the head for work or anything like that unless the HG is already blown. If you don't want to remove the head just get ARP bolts and swap them with the factory ones and you won't need to remove the head. Just remember the ARP bolts have a 12 point head and will require a 12point 10mm socket to put them on. You will have to rotate the crank to move the cams to get to some of the bolt locations. Follow the arp pre loading instructions and use the lube and then follow the torque down method in the TSRM.

TSRM...http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=IN&Page=1

thanks man for the info i appreciate it . . .i guess with my first check i will buy the arp head bolts and swap them out . .. i am guess they too will need to be torqued to 75 lbs . . .and as for the gasket i was wrong abou the brand i cant remember what it is but my dad ordered it from autozone and it cost 110 bucks if that healps to determine what its brand was . . .it looked similar to the stock one only all of the holes on the four corners of the gasket were some form of grey metal rather than copper and it seemed a bit thicker . . .the guy at autozone said it was not oem and was supposed to be a racing upgrade capable of 500 hp or more, who knows he could have been full of crap . . .i know this much however, if it blows again the whole engine is coming out and i have having the block bored .30 over and replacing all of the internals and while i am at it i will have the head machined and maybe ported if that is possible and i will definately be going back with a metal head gasket and larger turbo and injectors . . .figure 3 grand should cover most of it and with the new job and no bills that kinda loot shouldnt be hard to get. Thanks again guys

 

[ms07s]

From the sound of it you probably have the felpro gasket and should keep it, that is about the price I was quoted.:biglaugh: Do the arp bolt upgrade and call it a day.

Search peoples build threads to see how they do it and form your own plan. Lots of info here so just search and if you don't find it post a thread!

 

[IJ.]

Wow just wow......

I'm wondering just HOW stock bolts get "stretched" when 75ft/lbs is nowhere near their TTY spec?

In the past I've reused 7M headbolts and not had a problem, I wouldn't do this on a performace build but for a DD type motor it's not a problem.(provided the bolts are in good condition with no corrosion/errosion on the threads)

The stock head bolts cop a LOT of bad press for the unrelated BHG issues the 7M suffers from.

I think it was Reg Reimer that got a set of bolts analysed and his conclusion were they're quite good quality, a lot of this stems from a change in Stock Headgasket construction many many years back when 58ft/lbs was the correct spec on the older style HG, fast forward some years and 58ft/lbs isn't correct for the newer style Gaskets and 7M's start dropping like flies.

 

[gtsfirefighter]

I was going to say that I re-used my stock headbolts when my BHG was repaired on that grey 89 GE I used to have. They were torqued to 75 lbs and up until I sold the car I had no problems. It ran great.

 

[ms07s]

Wow just wow......

I'm wondering just HOW stock bolts get "stretched" when 75ft/lbs is nowhere near their TTY spec?

In the past I've reused 7M headbolts and not had a problem, I wouldn't do this on a performace build but for a DD type motor it's not a problem.

The stock head bolts cop a LOT of bad press for the unrelated BHG issues the 7M suffers from.

I think it was Reg Reimer that got a set of bolts analysed and his conclusion were they're quite good quality, a lot of this stems from a change in Stock Headgasket construction many many years back when 58ft/lbs was the correct spec on the older style HG, fast forward some years and 58ft/lbs isn't correct for the newer style Gaskets and 7M's start dropping like flies.

I appologise if my info is incorrect IJ. You are probably right as always. :biglaugh:

 

[IJ.]

LOL not quite "always"

 

[ms07s]

Close enough for me! :biglaugh:

 

[GrimJack]

Just remember the ARP bolts have a 12 point head and will require a 12point 10mm socket to put them on.

You were doing pretty good until here... if you can get a 10mm socket over the ARP nuts, you're a wizard. You need a 14mm.

I'm with IJ on the stock bolts, they should work fine. That said, the ARP hardware is a significant upgrade and most people do it just for the extra insurance.

Oh, and he was right, it was Reg that had the bolts analyzed, and the results said that they were just as good as the Mk4 2JZ head bolts.

 

[IJ.]

He has a really BIG hammer to get the socket on

 

[ms07s]

Sorry guys I have the bolts and they are 14mm

 

[Priest]

well at least i can feel safe driving it around on the weekends until i get my first check to get the arp's which i think i will still do for the "extra insurance" and it is the felpro that i have i found the box . .. so what is the material that it is made out of? is there metal under all that spongelike silver stuff . . .if i look at the edge of it it seems like metal but i cant tell? And about my other question with the upgraded IC pipe and exaust and k&N intake plugs and wires what kind of HP am i looking at, at the wheels of course. And also how much further do i have to go before i am in the low 13's through the 1/4 mile?
I can hit the mid to high 14's in my 240 and all i have on it is an intake and exaust and some minor weight loss so i am guessing i should be close to it now cause the supra feels a lot faster.

and oh yeah . . .am i hitting fuel cut when i tack it to 5500 and it backfires and bogs down or is that something that needs to be fixed?

 

[Priest]

Sorry guys I have the bolts and they are 14mm

i thought 10mm seemed sorta small to hold a head on . . .lol

 

[ms07s]

I can't remember what the felpro is made of but it is better than the stock gasket. IIRC it is reinforced around all the waterjackets and cylinders is that what you are refering to? As far as hp gains go you can only guesstimate untill you hit a dyno. Everything you added has made it easier for your turbo to spool and thats always good for faster acceleration.:boink:

Yea when I'm sleepy I tend to make typos and forget things, but hey at least I remebered it was 12 point lol.

 

[Poodles]

stock HG is a bit better than the felpro...

they're both composites, with metal and other materials all together...

ARP headbolts will drop right in, headstuds will not as the the bolt hole MUST be cleaned as they use the entire hole, not half of it like the bolts do...