Turbo Exhaust Studs

landspeedrich

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Nov 5, 2008
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Chicagoland
I'm going to need to install some new exhaust manifold studs.I plan on installing helicoils first,then the new 10 mm studs (1.25 thread I think).Is this the normal fix?Or isthere an up grade I should do,particularly with a bigger turbo upgrade coming up.So far I haven't foumd any stainless studs to use with the fine thread.Use factory stock I guess?Thanks Sorry if this has been hashed over before,I'm and old noob
 

grimreaper

New Member
Jul 2, 2008
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7/16 exhaust stud kit from DM... dont even bother with the 10mm stock ones, took me doing it twice before i did it right
 

landspeedrich

New Member
Nov 5, 2008
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Chicagoland
grimreaper;1188894 said:
7/16 exhaust stud kit from DM... dont even bother with the 10mm stock ones, took me doing it twice before i did it right

I agree ,thats most logical upgrade and still having enough clearance for manifold expansion.Oh yeah,who is DM?Thanks in advance
 

figgie

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
5,225
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Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
meh

the stock 10mm x 1.25 works quite well. I have a head with 225k to prove it ;) I did change after 4 studs just pulled out by hand. I did that at 73,023 miles. Never had an issue afterwards. The issue is keeping the hole true.
 

grimreaper

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Jul 2, 2008
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You'll most likely find you need to open up two of the manifold bolt holes unless your threads are perfectly strait....
also you may have to cut a coil off the helicoil with the 7/16's stud, i couldnt get my tap in far enough to get the full 7 or how ever many threads the coil has...
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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Fort Worth, TX
Didn't have to cut coils off on my car...

Stock sized helicoils pulled out of my head (yes they where loctited in as well), so I had to use the upgraded ones.

No issues since.
 

suprageezer

New Member
Aug 27, 2005
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I would go with what Drift Motion sells. If I'm not mistaken what they sell is 18-8 Stainless which is a good stainless for high temps. Don't forget to slop all your hardware with Nickle Anti-Seize.
 

landspeedrich

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Nov 5, 2008
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Chicagoland
suprageezer;1189361 said:
I would go with what Drift Motion sells. If I'm not mistaken what they sell is 18-8 Stainless which is a good stainless for high temps. Don't forget to slop all your hardware with Nickle Anti-Seize.
I think the way to go is with the 7/16-14 helicoil and 18-8 stainless studs.I can get the studs from Mcmaster Carr and rethread one end for 7/16-20.I've got the repair kit already,just need to put the head in the mill and drill out the 10mm old holes.Thanks for all the input you guys.
 

landspeedrich

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Nov 5, 2008
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Chicagoland
IJ.;1189449 said:
Rich: Before you spend a cent on the head have it hardness tested as stripped exhaust studs are the first sign that it's annealed.

Thats interesting,I never knew you can check a aluminum head for hardness or annealing.Or more so that you might.Is there a certain Rockwell it needs to be?On the head I was going to use,none of the threads are stripped out,just that the stud came out with the nut on all but one.The head was pressure tested,I know thats more for cracks.Thanks for the info!Rich
 

Zumtizzle

Can't Wait to Be King.
Oct 21, 2006
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Just Uniform Hardness is what i've come to the conclusion of. (as every tester is different)

But You WILL NOT find a perfect cylinder head. (Unless new.)

I look at 3 heads and chose the one with the best uniform hardness and it still had stripped EX side threads.