Turbo coolant line recirculation?

theDon

The Don
Mar 31, 2005
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Med-City, USA (Rochester, MN)
bwest said:
I had a jdm ct26 that had its coolant lines blocked off. I never ran my that way, but food for thought...

Top cooling line is 3/8 at thermo housing, bottom line is M14x1.5.

Top is easy to find a plug for, however the bottom isn't as easy ( not at NAPA or Ace Hardware, hmmm ). I really want to remove the little CT26 line that sticks out that I use a rubber cap on currently.

Can anyone tell me where to get a plug for M14x1.5? And what material is recommended, brass?
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
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Valley of the Sun
Well...not that simple. Dr.J's and JJ's comments on the by-pass function of the turbo coolant lines is dead on. I blocked mine off, actually welded the opening feeding the turbo closed and plugged the fitting on the back of the water pump housing. I was getting the "weirdness" Dr.J spoke of...my thermostat was sticking closed at random. I went through 5 stats (2 Toyota & 3 Stant SuperStats) trying to fix this...all did the same thing with minor variations. Drove me nuts!

Finally fixed it (going on a month now) by cutting the jiggle valve off leaving a hole at the top of the stat. This allowed a small amount of coolant to constantly flow (like the by-pass). The only thing I can come up with is it reduced the pressure behind the stat and allowed it to function normally.

Made a believer out of me ;)
 

theDon

The Don
Mar 31, 2005
552
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Med-City, USA (Rochester, MN)
So blocking these off is a bad idea.

Is it then recommended to go to an NA waterneck, or recirculate the turbo waterneck or are they the same. Sorry I still can't seem to figure this out.
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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bcg04 said:
So blocking these off is a bad idea. Is it then recommended to go to an NA waterneck, or recirculate the turbo waterneck or are they the same. Sorry I still can't seem to figure this out.

Most engines have some form of coolant bypass, called the secondary coolant path. It allows coolant to circulate through the engine when the thermostat is closed. The bypass promotes even engine cooling during warm up and thus prevents hot spots from developing. The bypass also allows the coolant to reach T stat opening temperature sooner. In some engines it can also prevent air lock at the thermostat. Turbo cooling aside, defeating the bypass on any engine isn't the brightest of ideas. Doing either of the things you mentioned will keep the path open. Or do as Dub and cut off the bleed valve. You can also enlarge the hole left behind and it'll serve as the bypass. 1/8 - 3/16" will do. Too big and the engine will take longer to warm up.