turbo capable of 600whp with small lag

[sk6471]

Nitrous Oxide is the equivalent of very cold oxygen rich air except that unlike air, it is always force fed into the intake under it's own pressure. It is always rated by how much horse power it can add since x amount of air generally equals x amount of power when properly mixed with the right amount of fuel. The limiting factor is always the ignition. Either the ignition isn't powerful enough to spark the higher compressed mixture, or the mixture ignites before the spark causing preignition and or detonation. The amount of torque that nitrous oxide adds is inverse to the speed at which the engine is spinning. As the engine is spinning faster, nitrous has less and less effect on torque since the engine requires more oxygen just to produce the same amount of torque. At lower engine speeds nitrous instantly adds gobs of torque. At 1500 rpm a 100 hp shot of nitrous adds 350 lbft of torque instantaneously. That's more than enough to destroy a very stout motor and or driveline. At that rpm, it also drastically raises cylinder pressure very close to idle where the risk of detonation is highest. If you do use nitrous oxide to help spool a street turbo, you should use the smallest amount that you can. One nozzle from an eight nozzle 100 hp kit would make 12.5 horses. Twelve and a half horses at 1000 rpm adds about 66 lbft of torque.

 

[Spaniard]

when you spray nitrous oxide cylinder pressure increases exponentially. When nitrous oxide enters the cylinder and is combusted it is consumed at an alarmingly fast rate. Such that if the rpms of the motor are not high enough it will create an instant amount of cylinder pressure that is so high that it will do the following: Bend rods, pop head gaskets, crack pistons, destroy part x y or z, and/or all of the above. A given motor must turn a minimum amount of rpm's in order to properly use the greatly expansive amount of cylinder pressure, if they do not they will over torque their engine and cause catastrophic damage. This is however a generalization and is not exactly true for every single setup, but since I have sprayed probly 30 different cars and 30 different setups, I can say without much doubt that what I am explaining seems to be pretty darn accurate.

Thanks
Rob@modularturbo

Nitrous Oxide is the equivalent of very cold oxygen rich air except that unlike air, is always force fed into the intake under it's own pressure. It is always rated by how much horse power it can add since x amount of air generally equals x amount of power when properly mixed with the right amount of fuel. The limiting factor is always the ignition. Either the ignition isn't powerful enough to spark the higher compressed mixture, or the mixture ignites before the spark causing preignition and or detonation. The amount of torque that nitrous oxide adds is inverse to the speed at which the engine is spinning. As the engine is spinning faster, nitrous has less and less effect on torque since the engine requires more oxygen just to produce the same amount of torque. At lower engine speeds nitrous instantly adds gobs of torque. At 1500 rpm a 100 hp shot of nitrous adds 350 lbft of torque instantaneously. That's more than enough to destroy a very stout motor and or driveline. At that rpm, it also drastically raises cylinder pressure very close to idle where the risk of detonation is highest. If you do use nitrous oxide to help spool a street turbo, you should use the smallest amount that you can. One nozzle from an eight nozzle 100 hp kit would make 12.5 horses. Twelve and a half horses at 1000 rpm adds about 66 lbft of torque.

Didnt know that, thank you.

Sorry to get off topic, but why do some people spray nitrous into their intake while they are trying to build boost off the line. I have been told this can be done safely and helps with building boost.

 

[ModularTurbo]

Since you launch the car at higher rpms and slip the clutch off the line, you shouldn't be falling into that no spray zone. Window switches prevent it too. You just start spraying after you have placed a good solid load on the motor.

 

[Velocityfreak]

Since you launch the car at higher rpms and slip the clutch off the line, you shouldn't be falling into that no spray zone. Window switches prevent it too. You just start spraying after you have placed a good solid load on the motor.

A progressive controller sums this up, as you can edit how often you want the selenoid to open. thus you can "ramp up" your nitrous over the course of your rpm build. Set the controller to slow off the bat, this will help build boost, and then once the RPM nears redline, the progressive controller can trigger the selenoid more often allowing more nitrous and fuel into the charge.

This is the ideal setup, however your going to be filling up your tank once a week at that rate, its going to get very expensive.

 

[ModularTurbo]

I personally don't like progressive nitrous controllers, they kind of defeat the purpose of shootin' DA GAS. Nitous is awesome when it hits hard like a ton of bricks, I used to spray a 300 shot to my Ford it was freaking sick.




......till it exploded 9 months later

 

[topgear]

thats a lot of info to study

right now I`m using MP T70 and 520whp
any chance of using smaller MP turbo capable same power, want to reduse lag.

 

[ModularTurbo]

you could run the T64 but it might not crack 500 though

 

[topgear]

if its no capable of 500whp then no thanx

dont know whats the problem but if I run more boost then have less power/torque
520hp @ 1,5 bar, 1,55bar = 505hp.
wierd

 

[RockPaperSwoRD]

your timing might be reduceed to prevent detonation, needs more fuel/higher octane/meth injection

 

[2JZ_MA70]

Im running the Forced Performance 3582 HTA... Its AWESOME!!! But I keep braking other crap so I cant drive the car..

http://store.forcedperformance.net/...de=NTGT3582HTA&Category_Code=Turbo-FP#Reviews

I got mine with the Tial V-Band option. If you want ~700 wheel you can go with the GT3586 Slight lag 100-200 rpm difference.

Here is my dyno and build thread.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80581

 

[MRSUPRA]

The new PT Billet 6262 is pretty nice too.

 

[tekdeus]

The HTA3586r with SP quick spool valve on my stock 7M spools 15psi at 3600rpm. I can still tune the SP valve to hold closed longer and it should hit 15psi by 3300-3400. This turbo is rated to up to 700hp, so with a built free flowing engine it should do 600 on a 3.0 easily.

So I would say this turbo with the SP valve is the best potential candidate for smallest lag and 600hp.

The PT6262 would be the next closest, but can't be used with an SP valve since it does not come in a suitable divided T4 housing.

 

[MRSUPRA]

I'm seriously thinking about sending my regular GT35R out to get the 62MM billet wheel put on. Right now I'm getting 15psi at 3400rpm in 4th gear with the regular GT35R.

I know an EVO that made 785rwhp with the billet6262 and I believe another EVO made 804rwhp with HTAGT3586. Here you go:http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=538508&page=9

 

[topgear]

Need to think about that HTAGT3586
many thanks to all of you.

Sagib.

 

[SSRACING]

I think you would probably want to check out the PT67-GTQ it'll definitly will give you quick response and the rwhp you need