Tube wall thickness for roll cage question:

MK3Brent

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I'm going through the options of an 8 point cage for my white car.

S&W sells a couple cages (materials):

8 Point Roll Bar
1986-1/2 to 1992 Toyota Supra, 1-3/4" x .134" wall tubing.

And

8 Point Roll Bar
86-1/2 - 92 Toyota Supra, 1-3/4" X .120" wall DOM tubing.


What's the big difference, and which would you recommend for a street car that wants to be a bit more safe?

-Brent
 

SLO-MK3

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I'm guessing the .134 wall is hrew tubing?

If so, I would def go with the DOM tubing. Even though the wall thickness is thinner, DOM is much stronger than HREW tubing. I tubed my truck with 1 3/4 .120 wall DOM, it's actually pretty strong shit. Especially when triangulated/gesseted.

If you're just going for looks and some torsional rigidity, than the HREW will be fine, but if you want any kind of protection in a crash/rollover, you should shell out for the DOM.
 

Wiisass

Supramania Contributor
What is the car being built for? Any classes? Type of racing? Etc?

ERW won't be legal for any road racing and I'm not sure about drag racing, but I don't think so anymore.

And I would recommend finding someone to put a cage in for you rather than buying the S&W kit. It's not that it's a bad kit, but fitment isn't that great and it's a lot of work to get everything to fit up right. And if this is going to be a street car having someone build you a cage will allow them to do certain things to give you more room so the cage isn't right next to your head on the street.
 

NashMan

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Aug 5, 2005
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S& m are good no probs for passing tect pending what you get

i flipped thou the catalog when taken a shit then did some research and sold bunch no compaint pass tec so it all good
 

MK3Brent

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The car is a street car that sees the drag strip occasionally.
With the amount of power I'd like to be making with it, I just thought it might be a safe idea. After talking some more with Bryan about it... it looks like I'll be going with the 8pt DOM cage.

I know there are plenty of non-caged cars here with 200 more hp than my goal of 600, I just think it's a good idea for a little extra safety.
 

selfinfliction

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MK3Brent;927102 said:
I know there are plenty of non-caged cars here with 200 more hp than my goal of 600, I just think it's a good idea for a little extra safety.

once you hit 500+hp (depending on your driving habits) i would generally suggest one, but that's just personal preference. i'd much rather have the extra safety and comprimise the weight
 

MDCmotorsports

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Well Brent, heres the real pisser.

If you go with the thicker, electronically seam welded tubing (mild steel), it most likely won't be legal in a lot of classes, if any.

The pisser is that 99% of all NASCAR frames (even the car of tomorrow) are 100% electronically seam welded mild steel tubing. LOL!

Now, if you could have some one make a 200mph cage for you, here's what Id do:

-1 3/4" 4130 Chrome molly. Ask to see weld quality first
-Nothing less than .095" on the halo.
-Nothing less than .120" wall on the uprights
-Nothing less than .120" on the side / door bars
-Nothing less than .095" plate for the gussets
-Nothing less than .120" plate for cage to body mounts

If one knew what they were doing, this above would be plenty (possibly even over kill) of cage for even a 200mph car, if you had enough points.

As for mild steel or even DOM, I wouldn't even waste my time. I really wouldn't.
I know S&W offers something like a .085" 4130 cage - again... wouldn't waste my time. I feel the 4130 .085" 1 3/4" is a little too thin.
 

Wiisass

Supramania Contributor
I don't think NASCAR (at least Nextel Cup cars) are using ERW tubing on their cars, it just wouldn't make sense. I know they use mild steel though, but I would assume its DOM because it has better properties than ERW. I can check for sure, I searched around real quick and couldn't find anything, but I have a lot of friends working for big name teams down there that should know.

MDC, you forgot the most important part of a 4130 cage, the post weld heat treat. Without this, the joints are the same strength or weaker than a mild steel joint, so you would end up with a weaker overall cage than if you just went with mild steel.

What do the rules spec out for a 4130 cage in a drag car? I'm not familiar with their rules. I do know in most SCCA classes and I think all NASA classes there is no weight benefit to using 4130 over mild steel. The tubing needs to be the same size regardless of alloy. A properly done 4130 cage would be stronger, but only if the cage is heat treated after to bring back the strength of the metal.

What did you base your recommended tube sizing on? I don't know if I would make the halo thinner than the rest of the cage. Any rollover that would hit the a-pillar would send a lot of load through the halo, making that the weak point would just make a bad situation worse.

In my opinion, DOM is the way to go, at least for road race/drift cars. Drag cars still see weight benefits from 4130, but like I keep saying unless there is a post weld heat treat, the cage will fail around the weld and be weaker than a mild steel joint. And with the thinner wall thickness it will be even worse. And maybe I'm just being cynical, but I don't think a lot of people realize this, and that 4130 may not always be the best choice for the job.
 

joliroger4

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The only kind of racing I do is drag racing, so I go by these rules and everything is outlined here. Your situation might be different. I also feel this is a very safe car to go the speeds I go in it, so I am more concerened with weight and streetability than ultimate safety. Again, your preference may be different and there is no such thing as being too safe so I am in no way shape or form telling you to skimp on the bar.


http://www.nhra.com/tech_specs/sportcompact/2008_SC_Rulebook.pdf
See page 20

1 3/4" .118 mild or .083 chrome moly except harness bar "A" which can be 1 1/4" .118 mild or .065 chrome moly

As you can see the advantage of chrome moly is the thinner tubing NHRA allows you to use, lessening the weight of your bar.

6-8 pts is a bar. 10 pts and over is a cage. I am going with a custom 6 point in my grey car in chrome moly(following NHRA Guidelines) with swingouts. I want it as light as possible and want to be able to pull the door bars when I am on the street. I heard the S&W kits needed lots of work from numerous sources on here and every one of them said they would of gone custom if doing it again, but I haven't installed one. This is the kind of thing that if done wrong will make you want to get rid of the car which is why I am installing it the way I am.
 

MK3Brent

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Thanks for the resources.

I debated whether or not to install it myself, but after some consideration it makes sense to go to a few places that can do this in the most professional manner possible, and meet every requirement for safety.

Thanks for clarifying a 6pt is a bar, and not a cage Dave, I never knew that.
 

joliroger4

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No prob. The 7 and 8th point on 8 pts go from where the harness bar meets the hoop down to the tunnel (behind the front seats). They are not required by NHRA.

I am up in the air as to do it myself or not. I can weld the chrome moly, but to do a custom I'll need a bender like a JD2, notcher and a chop saw so I am looking at ~$1200 in equipment, but after that the material wont be too expensive and my dads car needs a new bar and the MKIV isn't too far off either so when you compare the cost/risk of 3 bars done professionally vs the cost/risk/learning curve/labor of doing it myself...

If you wanted to risk an S&W mild with your mig you can prob get away pretty cheap, otherwise this is going to get expensive for you.
 
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Wiisass

Supramania Contributor
So what are the 6 points that make a bar? I thought it would be the rear shock towers, b-pillar and trans tunnel, but you said trans tunnel was 7 and 8.

In the not drag racing world, a 6-point is a cage, with the points being the rear shock towers, the b-pillar and the a-pillar.
 

joliroger4

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The first picture on page 20 here shows the minimum they require for a bar:
http://www.nhra.com/tech_specs/sportcompact/2008_SC_Rulebook.pdf

Actually you really only need 5pts according to the rules, but no one really does that. Personally, I feel it's tacky and less rigid. NHRA refers to them as the main hoop(2 pts), 2 rear bars(1 pt each = 2), and the side bars (1 pt each = 2) making your 6pt bar. You also need a cross bar for your harness, but that does not attach to the body or frame of the vehicle so that is not a point. If you elected to do a 5pt you can omit the passenger side bar.

The 7th and 8th point making an 8 point bar are two small bars that run from the union of the cross bar/hoop, to the tunnel hump behind the front seats infront of the back seats. Its easier to see a pic than to explain. See page 22, second illustration bar "D". That and its mirrored bar would be an example of points 7 and 8. The only reason I brought points 7 and 8 up are I see a lot of cars with these points installed on a bar and while it does add strength, it isn't necesary for a 10.0 and slower bar. Its also good general info to know the difference between a 6pt and 8pt bar.
 
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MDCmotorsports

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Wiisass;927874 said:
MDC, you forgot the most important part of a 4130 cage, the post weld heat treat. Without this, the joints are the same strength or weaker than a mild steel joint, so you would end up with a weaker overall cage than if you just went with mild steel.

Negatory chicken catch-a-tori.

This is a now heated debate in NHRA and tubing suppliers after John Forces car split into two pcs of heat treating VS not heat treating.

Heat treating 4130 IS ONLY TO BE PERFORMED if ER70S rod is to be used. If ER80-Sd2 rod is used, heat treating only weakens the structure of the tubing.

How do I know this?

Years of building sprint cars and open wheel race cars.

Lots and lots of seminars and technical bulletins.

Years of working with tubing suppliers.

Ive seen what a heat treated chassis does when a guy takes one out of the ball park.

It crumbles.

Ive also seen what a non heat treated, improperly welded 4130 chassis looks like too.

It crumbles.

4130 IMO (which to some may not be much), should only be welded with TIG, possibly back purged, with ER80S-D2 rod ONLY and should never be attempted by any one other than a professional.

4130 welds should not be dark and gray or white with cobwebs. They should be gold, orange and blue in color and appearance, with the OCCASIONAL gray spot.

As for the NASCAR Stuff, I promise you that 90% of all NASCAR chassis, including pavement latemodels (local series) dirt late models, and a whole host of other fender style racers are 100% electronically seam welded tubing.

How do I know?

I used to build the damn things. The scary part is, they are MIG'd together.
 

Wiisass

Supramania Contributor
That doesn't make sense. I know that ER80 is a better filler to use with 4130, but it would not take away the post welding heat treating requirement. The 4130 tube is still heated and taken from a normalized condition to an annealed condition making it a weaker tube. By heat treating after the weld it will bring back the strength of the tube.

It's not the joint that's weak, it's the heat affected zone around the weld that is affected. So I don't know why using a different filler would change this. You also have to remember that there are different levels of heat treating. I'm talking about a light heat treat to the area around the joint after welding which is then cooled slowly. It has to be the right balance of tensile strength and percent elongation. This is also assuming using normalized 4130.

What do you mean crumbles? Brittle failure, fatigues failure?

And it's not just the welding process of 4130 that makes it harder to work with, it's the pre and post weld work that needs to be done. The selection of what tubing to use is also critical. There isn't just one 4130, it can come in different heat treats meaning different strengths. There are a lot of different views on all of this and I'm not really sure why. It could be that people have done it and it has worked so they think that's the way to do it. I don't tend to hold the views of that kind of person very high, just because something has worked, doesn't mean it's the best or even a good way to do it. But I also look at everything as an engineer and need better reasoning than the fact that it has worked before.

Here's some good stuff on it:
Article about the John Force failure and normalized versus heat treated tubing.
http://competitionplus.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=4358&Itemid=24

Thread on Miller Motorsports Forum talking about that article.
http://www.millermotorsports.com/mboard/showthread.php?t=8889

I do agree with you that 4130 should only be welded with TIG, but also OA welding has also proven to be a good way to do it both in principle and in practice. I don't think backpurging is necessary with the thicknesses that are being used on roll cages and chassis. And a professional should always be doing this.

As for the NASCAR stuff, I could see the lower levels of circle track racing using the cheaper ERW tubing. But I would assume that the Nextel Series cars and higher level circle track racing using DOM. That's not saying that some people will cheap out and use ERW, but teams with bigger budgets should have no problem spending a little extra money to get a better chassis.

And I don't know why MIG is scary. With mild steel there is no downside to using MIG. I mean the HAZ is bigger than with TIG, but mild steel does not get affected by the heat the same way that 4130 does due to it's chemical structure. But in mild steel a high quality MIG weld will have the same strength as a high quality TIG weld when using the same filler. Obviously different fillers are going to change things.

Tim