Trying to find a write-up or something about ABS Removal on MKIII Supras...

[1988SupraDreams]

Hello all,
About two years abo I replaced my brake master cylinder (I installed it correctly...) due to brake fade. My car has ABS that doesn't work and I cannot bleed the ABS actuator properly (Nor can any shop I've taken it to). The brake pedal is squishy and quite scary (I don't drive this vehicle anymore as it has blown piston rings). So, I would like to just take the ABS out. I have been searching for a write up or something of that nature but have not had any luck. If anyone could point me in the right direction, I would be very thankful.

Thanks in Advance
-Shawn

 

[Enraged]

you could simply buy the brake lines from a Supra without ABS, and swap them over.

also, prepare to be berated with comments about how you can stop shorter with ABS. happens every time a thread like this gets posted.

 

[Poodles]

Nah, I wouldn't do something like that

Though I will say that squishyness sounds like more than an ABS issue.

 

[1988SupraDreams]

It's not an ABS issue, its a bleeding issue there is air in the actuator. The transmisson does not have the speed sensor for the ABS so it hasnt worked since I went turbo/5spd. I just wanna fix the squish.

 

[Canuckrz]

Have you tried taking it to reputable toyota dealership or just joe blow shops?

 

[1988SupraDreams]

Wheel works and Les Schwab, but like I said it now has blown piston rings, the reason I want to do this is because it doesnt work as the transmission doesnt have the sensor and my wiring harness is for non-abs cars. I just wanna take it out.. Gonna have to figure this out on my own I guess. I'll be looking for a Non-ABS supra next time in the junkyard..

 

[OneJArpus]

I'm actually in a similar dilemma myself. My rear brakes did not have any pressure. No matter What procedure I used the system would not bleed. I borrowed a phoenix injector and injected brake fluid from the rear caliper into the lines filling the master cylinder half way. Pushing all the air to the master cylinder, I bled the brakes once on each caliper in the rear and i had a steady stream of fluid.

Now, my brakes started to feel a little mushy at first and if i pumped it a 2nd time real fast then it would firm up a bit. So i decided let me rebleed my brakes and see if any air would come out. As soon as i open the bleeder opened with me holding the brake and my friend opening the bleeder i heard a GURGLE sound from the master cylinder and NOW i do not have rear brake pressure again.

I'm fed up with this f**king issue which i battled for 2 weeks, i tried 2 used working condition master cylinders, 3 remanufactured master cylinders. All master cylinders were bench bled and bleed with NO issues, but as soon as i hook up the lines, i get NO pressure to the rear only. I've cleaned and cleared out the lines before. If i disconnect both brake lines and leave the master cylinder on the booster, i get no pressure from the rear port but get pressure from the front port. I can feel air being pushed from the master with my finger over it and i feel it "suck" but it feels as if its sucking more air in then leting fluid out. If I do that to the front port the master cylinder forces the fluid past my fingers. If i leave both lines disconnect and the car level, fluid automatically flows out of the front port but dribbles or very little comes out the "rear" port (side for rear brakes). I've replaced the ABS pump, proportional vavle and still nothing. I've adjusted the brake pedal, i've adjusted the rod in the booster and STILL have no brakes.

I'm at a loss =/

 

[bioskyline]

there isnt a write up on t his that i know of, but look on the tsrm for braking system. it shows the diff between the abs and non abs supra. but i do believe it will mean replacing all your brake lines from front to back. or use some thru and T fittings and just rejoin the abs lines togther?

 

[Enraged]

you can also buy a brake line flaring tool, and shorten your current lines.