Transmission won't shift!
- Thread starter lemmiewinks289
- Start date
Update.. I re bled the system. Tried again... No Dice. So I tried a little experiment. I used a 1/4 inch drive socket and stuck it at the end of the slave cyl rod. This extended the stroke of the cyl a few millimeters.
I CAN SHIFT AGAIN... Of course this is just a temporary fix until my extended slave rod arrives.
Pedal is still somewhat soft.. and the engagement point has changed dramatically. It used to be near the bottom of the clutch pedal through, now it is much higher. Roughly around halfway up or so.
Still I've been thinking. If this was the problem, why did it used to NOT be a problem until now? Did something change on the diaphragm of the pp that made it not able to shift suddenly?
Hopefully, I have remedied the problem instead of buying time till the real reason why it couldn't shift pops up again. will update if something changes.
I CAN SHIFT AGAIN... Of course this is just a temporary fix until my extended slave rod arrives.
Pedal is still somewhat soft.. and the engagement point has changed dramatically. It used to be near the bottom of the clutch pedal through, now it is much higher. Roughly around halfway up or so.
Still I've been thinking. If this was the problem, why did it used to NOT be a problem until now? Did something change on the diaphragm of the pp that made it not able to shift suddenly?
Hopefully, I have remedied the problem instead of buying time till the real reason why it couldn't shift pops up again. will update if something changes.
lemmiewinks289;1309182 said:
Get under the car while someone pushes the pedal repeatedly, while you're holding the hose tightly in your hand. after each push, move your hand and repeat until you have covered the whole hose. You may not be able to see it, but you should be able to feel it. Using an extension can compensate for this problem, as the hose will only stretch so far, depending on how bad it is. Soft hoses can cause all kinds of problems, in pressure applications.
One other thing. Did you bench bleed the master? If you put it on without bench bleeding, that could be a problem too.
rayall01;1309370 said:
Bench bleed the master cyl? I've never heard of doin this with the clutch master cyl. Maybe the brake master cyl. Well I will try seeing if the hose is to blame
rayall01;1309367 said:
Worst advice ever!!! Do not do this, if the hose bursts you will be going to the hospital.
dumbo;1309569 said:
The clutch master doesn't put out that much pressure for one, and if that hose was near bursting, it would show visible signs, as it would have to be in real poor shape to burst. I have done this myself, so I feel confident recommending it. Remember, this is not a vacuum boosted brake system, and so is not under nearly as much pressure. I repeat, I have done this myself, and I did not have to go to the hospital.
lemmiewinks289;1309417 said:
They both work on exactly the same principals, so if you would bench bleed one, why wouldn't you bench bleed the other.
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dumbo;1309660 said:
If what I feel is the problem, is the problem, then hose expansion will not be very much, and might be hard or impossible to see. Plus, if you actually detect expansion, you can almost totally rule out improper bleeding as the cause. Honestly, I've been working on cars, motorcycles, washing machines, military aircraft, and all manner of mechanical devices, since I was eight years old, and I'm still here, and I still have all my body parts. I can't be doing things that unsafely, and believe me, it's not luck, because I have the worst luck imaginable.
I agree with rayall01 about testing his hose expansion theory not being dangerous...IF you wear eye protection, gloves, and long sleeves to cover your arms 
. Please keep us posted and change your clutch hose to a stainless steel braided one to let us know if it had any effect .
. Please keep us posted and change your clutch hose to a stainless steel braided one to let us know if it had any effect .
supisarethebest;1311294 said:
No offense, but please make your own thread.
Here is an update!
Well I was driving the car to see if it is still working. I drove a little aggressively because I wanted to reenact what I was doing to see if it did fix it. Sure enough after one of the pulls BAM.... can't shift again... Pedal feel got even softer. WTF!!!
But there was a different noise this time. Some sort of rattling. I assumed that it was the socket that broke from the pressure maybe and is rattling around. I took off the inspection plates and LO AND BEHOLD...
2 Pressure plate bolts rolled out. The ends were sheared off. I can only think that the other end is still embedded in the bolt hole.
This means I have to pull the tranny and clutch to get at the bolt ends and drill them out.
SO... now I have a theory of what was happening. The first time I had a no shift condition, could possibly have been the bolts backing out. I didn't even bother checking the bolts to see if they were loose because I have torqued them down as per instructions. Maybe I should have overcompensated due to the fact of the aftermarket pressure plate putting alot more force on those bolts than the stock pp did.
So.....I'm trying to put the facts together... Maybe the bolts were already backing out since the first time this happened. This caused the pp to be closer to the slave cyl causing which made the pedal travel shorter and feel softer??
If this is true then when I put the "extension" on the slave rod, it could just have compensated for the bolts backing off. Today, maybe the bolts have backed off so much that they have been sheared off due to the torque put on them... It did not help that this is a pull type clutch, causing it to put lateral force in the wrong direction.
Well, this allows me to rebuild my r154 right.. So I guess I can't complain TOO much. Still it sucks...
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lemmiewinks289;1300487 said:
I guess you never had a pry bar in there eh
shitty deal dude. Did you loctite the bolts?dumbo;1311794 said:I guess you never had a pry bar in there eh
Well, I put the clutch together via TSRM... So no...
In hindsite it would probably helped. But still. The bolts were sheared! Quite a bit of torque on the 2jzgte....
dumbo;1311915 said:
I've never loctited any flywheel, auto or clutch, and I've never had a problem. I gotta believe there's some other issue afoot here. Perchance some type of obstruction between the flywheel and crank, which would cause the flywheel to not seat properly. Check this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93860
dejacky;1310636 said:I agree with rayall01 about testing his hose expansion theory not being dangerous...IF you wear eye protection, gloves, and long sleeves to cover your arms
Sissy!:biglaugh: