tps values
- Thread starter Bri7man
- Start date
Brian needs to spend some time learning just how the TPS works and it's basics before he can understand what's going on here.....
His earlier answers show he doesn't grasp the relationship between the mechanical and electrical aspects.
While I'm happy to help out I'm not going to bottle feed the guys here when it's something so basic.
His earlier answers show he doesn't grasp the relationship between the mechanical and electrical aspects.
While I'm happy to help out I'm not going to bottle feed the guys here when it's something so basic.
hvyman;1534304 said:JDM
USDM
Notice the prongs for the tps are in 2 different spots.
I appreciate your concern but for the 3rd time; I have both of those plates Hvyman, you know... the prongs you are referring to as being different from USDM and JDM. They are 90 degrees out from each other.
I had both of those throttle bodies therefore I have both the prong plates the tps attaches to and swap them out EACH time I test each TPS.
Re-read my first-second post carefully and you will understand.
IJ.;1534365 said:
Right Ian, I was hoping it wouldn't be so complicated. And trying to get across the mod I did and how it cannot relate to the issue at hand has also been difficult.
All I need to know at the moment is when measuring at the back of the ECU and at the TPS for voltage, do the connectors need to be plugged in and measured through pins/paper clips inserted through the back?
What you're asking about is called back probing and for voltage checks of course the connector needs to be plugged in. The TPS receives power from the ECU and is incapable of producing signal on it's own.
Voltage on IDL (referenced to E2 or battery negative) should be near zero with the throttle closed and 5 volts with it slighty open. If checking resistance across IDL and E2 with the connector unplugged you should see less than 2K ohms (it's usually much less, around a few ohms) with the throttle closed and infinity with the throttle open.
The same applies when the TPS is off the TB: low ohms when closed and infinity when the TPS prongs are slightly twisted. Or zero volts when closed and 5 when slightly twisted. If it does that there's nothing wrong with it, at least not with the idle switch...
Voltage on IDL (referenced to E2 or battery negative) should be near zero with the throttle closed and 5 volts with it slighty open. If checking resistance across IDL and E2 with the connector unplugged you should see less than 2K ohms (it's usually much less, around a few ohms) with the throttle closed and infinity with the throttle open.
The same applies when the TPS is off the TB: low ohms when closed and infinity when the TPS prongs are slightly twisted. Or zero volts when closed and 5 when slightly twisted. If it does that there's nothing wrong with it, at least not with the idle switch...
Thanks JJ! I remember those tests checking out beforehand when I tested with it off the car.
I'm getting 4.5v with throttle open and 0.03 when closed from the back of the TPS on the IDL input.
I'm getting 4.5v with throttle open and 0.03 when closed from the back of the TPS on the IDL input.
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well there we go now we know that your tps works now you have to set it.
with a .50 mm feeler gauge between the lever and stop screw you should see 0v, but with a .90mm feeler gauge the voltage should be 4.5
when the tps gets too worn out, you cant get it dialed in just right. the the "point" where the voltage jumps up and down will seem to move around. if you have a worn out tps take it apart and you will instantly understand the
with a .50 mm feeler gauge between the lever and stop screw you should see 0v, but with a .90mm feeler gauge the voltage should be 4.5
when the tps gets too worn out, you cant get it dialed in just right. the the "point" where the voltage jumps up and down will seem to move around. if you have a worn out tps take it apart and you will instantly understand the
mkiiichip;1534516 said:
So back to square 1, adjusted TPS where it deflects which is still backwards btw, hits .03 ohms from "1" (infinite) going counter clockwise and on and so I secured it and measured it again at .04 ohms.
With this setting I am seeing .003v at .50mm and not seeing 4.5v until 1.60mm
So basically my TPS's could be old and worn I can understand that, but why is it deflecting backwards?
-
signal
+
Needs to be
+
signal
-
due to your mechanical mods to the linkage
BUT here is the problem, if you do that IDL is on the wrong side and will be reading only at WOT
(tried to explain this earlier but if you don't understand the basic function of the TPS you'll have trouble grasping the concept)
signal
+
Needs to be
+
signal
-
due to your mechanical mods to the linkage
BUT here is the problem, if you do that IDL is on the wrong side and will be reading only at WOT
(tried to explain this earlier but if you don't understand the basic function of the TPS you'll have trouble grasping the concept)
Ian I don't see why they could have reversed? The prongs match up just like they did stock, I even showed a pic of the rod in my 2nd post in how the modded setup compares to the stock setup and both rods have a vertical male end that the metal plate the TPS prongs attach to, the only variable is which plate is used and I match them per model tps. IE I take the nut and washer off and secure the proper plate the TPS prongs match with.
What am I missing this is frustrating..
What am I missing this is frustrating..
OK really confused now then, ONLY way deflection can be "backwards" is if mechanically the TPS is reversed OR if the + and - have been reversed.
The ECU wants the signal one way.
Only other thing I can think of is reverse the multimeter leads
(you might be probling backwards)
The ECU wants the signal one way.
Only other thing I can think of is reverse the multimeter leads
(you might be probling backwards)
dont worry about the ohms right now
so your saying you have no more adjustment (the tps is turned all the way one way and that is as close as you can get it)?
one of us is missing something here. just to clarify... the small amount you can rotate the tps, with the screws slightly loose, is the adjustment we are after. what i am trying to say is we need to move the switching point (which is now at 1.60mm) between .50mm and .90mm (by adjusting the tps)
if it cant be done either you have a bad tps or something mechanically wrong.
so your saying you have no more adjustment (the tps is turned all the way one way and that is as close as you can get it)?
one of us is missing something here. just to clarify... the small amount you can rotate the tps, with the screws slightly loose, is the adjustment we are after. what i am trying to say is we need to move the switching point (which is now at 1.60mm) between .50mm and .90mm (by adjusting the tps)
if it cant be done either you have a bad tps or something mechanically wrong.
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mkiiichip;1534565 said:
No I do have more adjustment, all I'm saying is that I'm turning the TPS to the left(counter clockwise) to reach the first resistance reading I am securing it at.
For clarity and before I actually cared what the tsrm said, I would adjust it with my hand until I had no issues and then set timing again.
I get what you're saying. I need to move the TPS into a higher resistance possibly until the .90 mm is when 4.5v is displayed?
---------- Post added at 09:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:42 PM ----------
What I'm thinking is initially from adjusting the TPS by hand w/o a multimeter multiple times, I have somehow broke both TPS by somehow reversing the polarity? In the beginning I had the USDm Throttle Body and had been adjusting by hand so I dont know if it was ever deflecting properly, then I did my mod and decided to use the other TPS with its proper plate, adjusted by hand like before with no issues, so again I don't know if that one ever deflected properly either.
I'm thinking the only way to know for sure is if I have someone test a TPS for me on their car to be sure it is deflecting normally and then I try it on my car.
If anyone reads this and is willing to help out I will most definitely buy it off you.
enough with the resistance readings, i am trying to set the tps with voltage readings.
when you said this "With this setting I am seeing .003v at .50mm and not seeing 4.5v until 1.60mm" i can see your tps is working properly and NOTHING is reversed. it is just out of adj.
set the "voltage switching point" between .50mm and .90mm by moving the tps while monitoring IDL voltage.
when you said this "With this setting I am seeing .003v at .50mm and not seeing 4.5v until 1.60mm" i can see your tps is working properly and NOTHING is reversed. it is just out of adj.
set the "voltage switching point" between .50mm and .90mm by moving the tps while monitoring IDL voltage.
Alright got it 4.5v at .90mm and .03v at .50 on the dot. Now this was actually achieved moving clockwise from the last position.
Is there anything else I should check before I put things back on and see how the rpm's respond?
Is there anything else I should check before I put things back on and see how the rpm's respond?
whitemike;1534616 said:Brian.. oh Brian.. you're making this more difficult than it has to be
-Mike
It's what I do