TPS Sensor: Year interchangable?

[theKnifeArtist]

i just got my tps sensor from one guy on here in the mail. it's from an 89 turbo. i have an 88 turbo. does this matter? i hope i didnt screw myself again. it looks a little different internally and the spring is a lot tighter. other than that, LOOKS like it'll work fine.
can i still use this?
here are the pics.

 

[1988SupraDreams]

I'm using an 87 on my late 89 motor, no problems yet! :bigthumb:

Whichever TPS you choose to use, make sure you let it soak in some alcohol like Vodka overnight and test it electrically as well. Should be fine with either.

 

[theKnifeArtist]

hey, so i installed this tps and i get the same readings as my other one, not in spec. i cannot calibrate this damn thing, when i do the .5mm adjustment, i'm supposed to get <2.x but i get 4.x at the lowest. am i calibrating these damn things wrong? or did i just buy another broken one? do you think it can be the wiring to the tps?

 

[jetjock]

Lol, screw yourself a lot do you?

It's not really a part that should be bought used even though people do. Especially those Taiwan ones . And yes, it sounds like you're doing something wrong. Test it off the car and test both sections. When you find one that works it's easier to set it up off the car.

 

[theKnifeArtist]

i tried them off the car right before i assembled it and i got the same crap. it passes the first 0mm test, and then fails the .5mm test...hmm i never tried the other ones, but i assume if you fail one...
and i also tried the technique i found one here where you adjust it by looking at the MIL and wait for it to blink fast and shit...but i get a continuous code 41 blink.

 

[jetjock]

41? You gotta be kidding me...

 

[theKnifeArtist]

uhh..

 

[jdub]

Continuous code 51 perhaps

 

[jetjock]

He could be getting a 41 but that would only happen if the engine was run. If so he's looking in the wrong place. He needs to check the other part of the TPS. More likely he means a 51. Just needs to read more carefully. Maybe he's waiting on a promotion to Rote Monkey:

http://tinyurl.com/2mxq82

KA: I want you to jumper the IDL and E terminals in the TPS connector on the engine harness. The bottom two pins with the connector oriented the way it goes onto the TPS. Tell us what code you get. Do this with the key on, engine off, AC off, and the diag block also jumpered.

And what kind of logic is this: "i never tried the other ones, but i assume if you fail one...". So if you have one part that tests bad you automatically assume all are bad?

 

[theKnifeArtist]

maybe it was code 51.
i will try those tests as soon as i can, thanks

 

[theKnifeArtist]

yeah, looks like i was wrong..i could sworn..
i checked for codes normally and got 51, and then jumped IDL and E and got 51 and 41

 

[jetjock]

Did you start the engine or did you get a 41 without starting? Did you clear all codes before you did this test? I have no idea how old that 41 is.

Assuming you did what I said correctly and had a good connection on the jumper either the wiring is bad between the TPS connector and ECU, the AC amplifier is bad, or you have a neutral start switch problem (if an automatic).

To find out if the TPS wiring is bad do this:

1) Turn the key on and measure voltage between IDL and battery negative.

2) Turn the key off and measure resistance between E and battery negative

Report what you find.

Next test each TPS you have off the car. First see if they stick. Submerged those that do rubbing alcohol for 30 minutes, then remove and set aside to completely dry. Check them again in 2 hours for stickiness.

Take those that don't stick and place on a table with the connector facing left and the TB part with the little lever facing up at you. Look at the lever. It should be straight up and down. Call the bottom part 6 o'clock.

Measure the resistance on the upper two pins of the TPS. Be sure the meter leads don't touch each other or any other pins while doing this. Write down what the meter displays in ohms. Pay attention to any decimal point.

Move the lever to 7 o'clock. Write down that valve. It should be the same as when the leads are open and the same as when the lever is all the way clockwise. The meter should switch between the two values on either side of 6:30-7 o'clock.

Report back with the results.

 

[theKnifeArtist]

I was doing the test with key on engine off before.

TPS Wiring Test:
IDL on harness to battery negative, key on engine off: 1.16v
E2 on harness to battery negative, key off: .16ohms

what is this lever on the TB you're talking about? i can't go any further without figuring out this lever
i know how to do resistance checks, continuity checks, voltage drops, and all that good shit, so dont worry about explaining it, thanks though.
i've tried reseting and the code naturally comes back. am i having wiring problems?

oh and i did the .9mm IDL-E2 test from the tsrm. spec:OFL i got like 4.20
then i did the WOT VTA-E2 test and that was in spec.
just as a reminder, the 0mm VTA-E2 passed but the .5mm IDL-E2 test failed.

 

[jetjock]

Uh, if you knew how to do this stuff you wouldn't be having the problem you're having. I don't trust anything you're doing which is why I explained it. 4.20 what? Ohms? K Ohms?

If you really have 1.16 volts between IDL and battery negative you've got wiring or ECU problems.

You've got to be kidding about the lever. Read the damn post.

 

[theKnifeArtist]

4.20 ohms, sorry forgot it..
i know how do some wiring diagnostics, but i dont know what numbers i'm supposed to be seeing or what tests to run for this.
im not kidding about the lever..i really don't know what lever this is facing at me. i know theres levers here, but i really cant spot what your talkin about. a level on the back of the TB (looking at the TPS as the front)?
so how many volts should be idl to negative?

 

[jetjock]

What part of "place the TPS on a table with the connector facing left and the TB part with the little lever facing up" don't you understand? Did I mention the throttle body? I said the TB *part* of the TPS. The part that goes into the TB. I wasn't going to mention it at all because it's so damn intuitive but did because you seem totally lost.

Keerist, we're talking about checking what is basically a single pole switch here, something that should be a cake walk to anyone with the skills you claim to have. You also seem completely unable to read the car's schematic. This is like your HG thread where you said you have experience doing engine work and then proceed to demonstrate you haven't a clue.

I don't give a rat's ass what you got with the TPS mounted on the TB using feeler gauges. I just told you how to check it. I want to know what the resistance is with the lever at rest and what it is when moved to 7 o'clock. Do it. And stop BSing me before I drop helping you like a sack of potatoes.

 

[theKnifeArtist]

oh that lever..damn..okay. i'll run these tests soon and report the results. i'm just trying to follow the tsrm as i am always told, but i'll perform the tps tests your way as i can see now the tsrm tests are for the calibration and we have a different situation here. okay maybe i dont know anywhere as much as you do in this area, and not as much as i thought, but before you were explaining how to check the continuity test on the two pins on the tps, i was just tryin to say that i understand that. at this point i say nothing more.
ok so i'll run the tests on the tps, and i'll look into my wiring having 1.16v at the IDL

 

[jetjock]

That's what I'm saying. I want you to check the continuity between IDL and E with the lever closed and at 7 o'clock. It should be infinity at 7 and less than 2K at rest. Most TPSes will be much lower, around 50 ohms. Mine is 10 ohms. The TPS needs be below a certain amount of resistance to pull IDL down to ground or the ECU won't accept it as a valid IDL signal. Once you verify the TPS is good then and only then does trying to set it up on the TB make sense.

Jumpering IDL and E on the harness is doing the same thing a good TPS does. It should make the code 51 disappear if the wiring is good and the ECU isn't receiving any of the other signals that can generate a 51. But test the TPS first. One miracle at a time. And as far as the TSRM goes stop being a rote monkey. Sorry to be a bit harsh but being subjected to my award winning personality is the price you pay for tech advice. That said it's worth exactly what you paid for it

 

[Nick M]

TKA, you need to be careful asking a probably one time certified tech how to fix it. Because you know mechanics are always stupid and don't know anything. Just try it yourself.

 

[theKnifeArtist]

man jetlock i read your last thread three different times and i keep seeing it edited, thanks for dealing with my dumb ass, i appreciate it.
just as an update, i was gonna run the TPS tests today while i was at work(i have a lot of free time) but i forgot the print out i made of your post explaining how to do it. so, since i couldnt do the tps test, i decided to do the wiring tests i remembered you telling me how to do. Got 1.16v on the IDL KOEO, and .16kohms as the resistance with the key off. then i did the E2 IDL jump test and got the same result. code 51 not jumped and code 51 and 41 jumped. all the same results from the last time i did the tests.
i'm not trying to skip the TPS test, i just wanted to make use of my time at work somehow so i'm just verifiing. i will do the TPS tests tommorrow when i go to work.