Ok so lets start from the beginning. I've got an Aristo 2JZ running off of a 1JZ wiring harness and M/T supra ECU with the 2JZ boost pressure sensor as a map sensor. At first I didnt have an oxygen sensor hooked up, the car idled like crap, runs right around 10:1 at idle, had a nasty hesitation of idle, and if you drove around it had alright power but would randomly misfire like crazy and when it did the tach would actually drop down towards 0 like the tach signal from the ecu was cutting off and the CEL would come on, it would backfire like crazy and then go back to normal if you revved it over 3K. Now i've got a zeitronix wideband in there using its narrowband output to feed the ECU's oxy input and the idle leaned out a bit but its still acting the same even after resetting the ECU. I was listening in the engine bay and heard the fuel pump relay going crazy so I figured the resistor was shot, did the 12V bypass mod and now the hesitation is gone, it revs alot faster, but its still doing the same crap. Eventually the ECU will go into limp mode if you dont reset it so I let it do that and tried to pull the codes, heres the fun part. When you pin out TE1 and E1 the ECU wont tell you the codes. You turn the key on and the check engine light will come on, then go off, and right when you think its about to blink some codes it has a seizure, just blinks like 20 times in one second randomly then stays on constantly. You turn the key off and you'd atleast expect it to do the same thing again, nope, it stays on solid. I tried swapping the map sensor with a known good 1JZ unit and it doesn't help at all, tried swapping ECU's with a friend and it still runs like crap, though his could be bad too as his car has been down for awhile on a long term single swap. I got the harness and ECU from Lenny and he said they were both good, opened the ECU up and I cant see any signs of leaking caps or ne damage. This would be so much easier if I could even get a check engine light to show. All the injectors are working good, and all the other sensors seem to be good, the wiring was never extended simply cut a hole in the firewall, and I had the original JZ body side connectors so im pretty durn confident in the wiring. Also I adjusted the TPS, didnt help.
Tough diagnostic problem, you're the man if u can figure this out
- Thread starter mk1spyder
- Start date
Factory 7M fuel pump with like 4 gallons of fresh 93 in there, also has the original fuel filter, but for the CEL and ecu to act like it is I doubt its fuel related.
Quick question, the 3 seperate grounds coming out of the wiring harness that all bolt to the lower intake manifold. I have them all spread out across the lower intake manifold on different bolts, are they supposed to all be on one bolt or the 2 brown and white ones on one bolt and the bigger white and black ones seperate? Also how does the ignitor ground itself, through its mount? If so I only have one screw holding it in to a custom mount, im thinking about putting all the wiring harness grounds on one bolt, daisy chaining that to the ignitor mount, put a ground wire to one of the screw holes in the bottom of the ignitor and then diasy chaining that to the main ground point infront of the strut tower.
Quick question, the 3 seperate grounds coming out of the wiring harness that all bolt to the lower intake manifold. I have them all spread out across the lower intake manifold on different bolts, are they supposed to all be on one bolt or the 2 brown and white ones on one bolt and the bigger white and black ones seperate? Also how does the ignitor ground itself, through its mount? If so I only have one screw holding it in to a custom mount, im thinking about putting all the wiring harness grounds on one bolt, daisy chaining that to the ignitor mount, put a ground wire to one of the screw holes in the bottom of the ignitor and then diasy chaining that to the main ground point infront of the strut tower.
I havent checked it with a timing gun but when we first put the engine in we noticed it was off a couple teeth on the gears...I pulled the timing belt tensioner and set it to where the up marks on the gears match perfectly with the notches in the metal cover at the same time it is perfectly at 0 on the crank mark. Not sure if it was on TDC 1 compression stroke at the time but it had to be cause if it was off that damn much it wouldnt even run. If you rev it towards 5K it sounds beautiful so I doubt the timing can be off that much unless its electronic which would most likely be caused by something else.
There are 2 cam sensors, unplug the front one then go drive around and see if it still does the same. If it does then replace it with a different one.
im with JZA71
check the cam sensors, and even the crank sensor. and your timing.
me myself i would also buy a stock O2 sensor and wire it up like stock instead of splicing the zeitronix WB, but thats me
check the cam sensors, and even the crank sensor. and your timing.
me myself i would also buy a stock O2 sensor and wire it up like stock instead of splicing the zeitronix WB, but thats me
cam sensor would make sense, also does anyone know what the twin blue and white wire connectors under the fuse box are for, ill try to post a pic.
Also I can't remember if there is supposed to be more than 2 pairs of ground wires bolting to the intake manifold.
That would make sense that theyre for the a/c fans.
Ok so I didnt get to drive it down the street, but unplugging either of the cam position sensors simply set the check engine light and made it idle at 2K. Both created the same effect, having both out the engine wouldnt start, then I plugged both back in and it still idles at 2K with the check engine light on. But wonderous piece of shit that it is, it still refuses to acknowledge me connecting Te1 and e1....now instead of doin the flickering shit it just comes on like normal and does nothing. Its all so random, if it would produce the same exact problem over and over I could diagnose it, but its so random theres no telling and without being able to pull codes it just makes it that much more fun.
Ok so I didnt get to drive it down the street, but unplugging either of the cam position sensors simply set the check engine light and made it idle at 2K. Both created the same effect, having both out the engine wouldnt start, then I plugged both back in and it still idles at 2K with the check engine light on. But wonderous piece of shit that it is, it still refuses to acknowledge me connecting Te1 and e1....now instead of doin the flickering shit it just comes on like normal and does nothing. Its all so random, if it would produce the same exact problem over and over I could diagnose it, but its so random theres no telling and without being able to pull codes it just makes it that much more fun.
If the crank position sensor was bad it wouldn't rev past a certain point or possibly not start at all, ive never seen a crank sensor cause shit like this.
If the crank sensor was bad it wouldn't run at all. Usually when you can't pull codes it's because there is a problem with the ignition switched and/or 12v battery input of the ecu. Check all the 12v inputs of the ecu and make sure you have 12v where you should. There are all sorts of wiring mistake possibilities.
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If I had problems like that wouldn't it be tricky to start at times etc... or the CEL not come on when u turn the key on? Cause i've never had that prob.
I tested all the 12v inputs to the ecu and they all check out at 11.63 volts cause my battery is a lil low at the moment, but theyre all the same. Just for shits and giggles I tested resistances on EO1 and EO2 to from where they go into the ECU to where they bolt on the lower intake manifold and theyre good, like 1 ohm of resistance in all of the wire. If you fire it up now it is idleing at like 900-1000 rpms after I played with the idle air screw and the TPS, but im only reading 43-44kPa vacuum on my neo where it used to read like 60-70kPa and its running 9:1 AFR's at idle. The CEL stays on constantly now but it still wont read me a frickin code.
western NC, im the only one around here hah. as far as I know im the only running 2J swap in NC. back when I had my first 1J swap that came from Jtamulis and matt suffern I was the only running 1J in NC, that was so long ago hah.