I have no personal experience with Total Seal rings, but I do know that most ring problems on new/freshly rebuilt motors with ring sealing problems is due to gentle break in routines of the motor.
The rings use the cross hatch pattern to cut them to fit to each bore. That sharp cross hatch only lasts for awhile, and while you can still see the pattern, the sharp peaks are shaved off pretty quick, and they cease to cut the rings any further very quickly. (It can take many thousands of miles to get a reduction in oil use for example if you break in a motor slowly/gently, and that will also affect power, and how long the engine lasts depending on oil change intervals.)
I think a quick, hard break in is the best way to go. Use whatever 30 weight oil you can get your hands on, and change it and the filter at 50 miles, 200 miles and 500 miles. By that point, you should be broken in, and little or no "machine" work between parts will happen any more. (Everything should be floating on a film of oil, no metal to metal contact other than start up for the most part, and rings should be seated, and match each bore since the cross hatch by 500 miles is pretty much dull, and not cutting the rings quickly anymore IMHO.)
Heck, by 500 miles, you can put in a good filter and switch to synthetic oil in my opinon. (Not to start an oil debate here, but we are talking about breaking in rings, and I don't reccomend using synthtic oil for that process, besides, you are just throwing money away with the fast oil changes to use any oil other than the cheapest stuff you can find.)