torque convertor mis-install : what broke?

[jvginpdx]

I had the 7-mge engine out of my sons 1990 Cressida. Since the torque convertor was easily accessable. I decided to pour out any ATF and replace it. None came out. So I had my son shove it back on. Last time I did this was on an old Chevy Vega many years ago. No problem. Next I tried to install the engine. One side bolted up nicely, but the other side would not. So I put in a longer bolt. tightened it down. Close, but no cigar. the best I could do was about 3/4 inch on the drivers side, and 1/8 on the passenger side. I heard a POP ! noise. Uh-Oh. :cry:So the engine came back out. If all else fails,read the instructions. :biglaugh:The FSM on Cygnus said if torque convertor not set in about one inch, it was not installed correctly. When I looked things over, mine was set in about 1/2 inch. It was obvious that the slot on the convertor was intended to fit over the ears in the A/T pump. Duh! Mine was installed so the torque convertor snout was pressing HARD on the ears on the A/T pump.

My flexplate was bent. The POP noise could have been the nipple on the torque convertor snapping into the hole in the crankshaft. Or did I break something on the torque convertor or in the pump. The wrecking yard I went to to get the replacement flexplate told me that chances are that something broke inside the pump.

My main question is, How do I diagnose this? how do I test or examine the torque convertor. The pump appears to be removable without too much trouble. It looks like I will need to get a new 8 dollar O ring. How do I examine the pump for possible damage I might have caused? Also, if it IS broken, how should I go about finding a good used pump? I suppose some of the members on this board might have one available in a dead A/T?

Thanks

 

[nick88]

I had the 7-mge engine out of my sons 1990 Cressida. Since the torque convertor was easily accessable. I decided to pour out any ATF and replace it. None came out. So I had my son shove it back on. Last time I did this was on an old Chevy Vega many years ago. No problem. Next I tried to install the engine. One side bolted up nicely, but the other side would not. So I put in a longer bolt. tightened it down. Close, but no cigar. the best I could do was about 3/4 inch on the drivers side, and 1/8 on the passenger side. I heard a POP ! noise. Uh-Oh. :cry:So the engine came back out. If all else fails,read the instructions. :biglaugh:The FSM on Cygnus said if torque convertor not set in about one inch, it was not installed correctly. When I looked things over, mine was set in about 1/2 inch. It was obvious that the slot on the convertor was intended to fit over the ears in the A/T pump. Duh! Mine was installed so the torque convertor snout was pressing HARD on the ears on the A/T pump.

My flexplate was bent. The POP noise could have been the nipple on the torque convertor snapping into the hole in the crankshaft. Or did I break something on the torque convertor or in the pump. The wrecking yard I went to to get the replacement flexplate told me that chances are that something broke inside the pump.

My main question is, How do I diagnose this? how do I test or examine the torque convertor. The pump appears to be removable without too much trouble. It looks like I will need to get a new 8 dollar O ring. How do I examine the pump for possible damage I might have caused? Also, if it IS broken, how should I go about finding a good used pump? I suppose some of the members on this board might have one available in a dead A/T?

Thanks

I'm sure there are lots of auto trannies laying around this forum. Just post a wanted thread in the for sale forum.

Inspect the crankshaft and flywheel before putting a new one on.

 

[jvginpdx]

I'm sure there are lots of auto trannies laying around this forum. Just post a wanted thread in the for sale forum.

Inspect the crankshaft and flywheel before putting a new one on.

 

[jvginpdx]

I was planning on using a dial guage to determine back and forth motion. What might I have done to the crankshaft?

 

[gaboonviper85]

I was planning on using a dial guage to determine back and forth motion. What might I have done to the crankshaft?

Nothing too the crank...no way in hell you'll hurt that....the flexplate or converter maybe but not the crank

 

[Letsride]

$20 says you just ruined that front pump.

 

[Poodles]

Paging IJ...

 

[jvginpdx]

I am working on it tonight. Since the engine was in at a slight angle when I heard the POP noise, the first thing that came to my mind was that it sounded like the torque converter fron nipple popped into the crank shaft. I removed the torque convertor for the first time since the POP incident. I found that metal had deformed around the edges of the torque convertor, confirming my initial diagnosis. I filed and dremmeled the edges smooth. I removed my deformed flywheel flex disk. Then I did a test fit of the torque convertor into the end of the crankshaft. The nipple might be at a slight angle compared to how it should be. Is there a bearing inside the nipple I might have bent on the torque convertor? I tested the internals according to the on line FSM. It appeared to function normally. it would rotate in one direction, not the other.

I just removed the pump from the transmission. No visible cracks on the outside that I could see. I am having a late dinner, then will go back out to the garage and open the pump to see and measure things according to the FSM.

I feel like a dope, but I am sure I am not the first or last person here who is/will be in this situation.

 

[jvginpdx]

AND THE VERDICT: The only damage was the flexplate. 35 buck fix. I will also need the seals for the pump. :icon_bigg I removed the pump. I took it apart and checked for cracks and chips. None found. Since I installed the engine cockeyed, the nipple on the torque converter took the pressure, not the pump.

The next part of the project is installing the pump and new seals.

What is the best way to reinstall the torque convertor so that it will slide on to the shafts and so that the slot on the convertor goes over the ears in the pump? Is this just repetitive trail and error, or is there a trick to this I need to know about?

Thanks

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Spin he converter on the input shaft as you lift and push in on it towards the tranny. It should go in a decent amount.

 

[jvginpdx]

I finally discovered why I was having problems reinstalling the torque convertor. I had asked my son to put the car in neutral so that the input shaft would turn.

When we tried to install the torque convertor, it would not go on all the way, and it would not spin. I was tired at the end of a long day, and when I heard the POP noise I quit the project for a while.

I came back to the project to investigate any damage I might have caused to the front pump. I took the pump off, and a portion of the drive shaft came out a ways. I took the pump apart, no damage. Tried to put it back on, it would not go in all the way. I wound up looking up the instructions for rebuilding the A/T. I took the first drum thing off, it was to the overdrive unit. I found out that the only way to get the shaft in there again was to take off the snap ring and to take the unit apart, then reassemble. Then it would go back on.

Still was not able to turn the shaft. Then it occurred to me..... did my son really put the shifter in neutral? NO! it was in DRIVE!. :: angry :: I put it in neutral, and the shaft spun. Now when I work on it agian, the torque convertor will spin and go on.

The lesson here is when you put the torque convertor back on, make sure to put the shifter in NEUTRAL!! :biglaugh: Duh!!!!