Too High EGT's?
- Thread starter Fubar231
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When do you see this number? WOT...cruise...? What are your AFR's? Stock internals?
Personally, I'd worry seeing ~1425 at WOT.
Personally, I'd worry seeing ~1425 at WOT.
All these temps are off memory so there not the most accurate
Idle ~ 800
Cruising (65 mph) ~ 1250
WOT (12 lbs stock ct ) ~ 1400
Mods are...
Apexi filter, cooleze intake pipe, stock 168k mile turbo, 2.5 inch ic piping w/ fmic (spearco replica) , 3 inch turbo back no cats , turboxs mbc, cometic mhg and arp studs, walbro 255... i think thats it reguarding preformance parts
Remember, the bung is located on the runner of the 6th runner (Which i BELIEVE gets the hottest). And if memory serves me (Which i highly doubt it does) People said not to really worry about the 6th runner unless its ~1550+.
EGT Bung Location
Idle ~ 800
Cruising (65 mph) ~ 1250
WOT (12 lbs stock ct ) ~ 1400
Mods are...
Apexi filter, cooleze intake pipe, stock 168k mile turbo, 2.5 inch ic piping w/ fmic (spearco replica) , 3 inch turbo back no cats , turboxs mbc, cometic mhg and arp studs, walbro 255... i think thats it reguarding preformance parts
Remember, the bung is located on the runner of the 6th runner (Which i BELIEVE gets the hottest). And if memory serves me (Which i highly doubt it does) People said not to really worry about the 6th runner unless its ~1550+.
EGT Bung Location
According to HKS's instructions they supplied with their F-con units, don't exceed 1600 @ WOT.
1400 is not bad, good & safe
1400 is not bad, good & safe
From what i just read researching.... after 1400 deg ... you start melting things... im gona keep reading but it looks like 1300 wot is safe...and 1400 is dangerouse....
Fubar231;1387057 said:
Mine is bung'd post turbo so I add ~150 to my temp to get an idea of cyl temp. I'm at ~1275 at WOT.
Somewhere around 1400, as stated, is a dangerous temp.
What are your AFR's? Did you drill out or bypass your J-Tube...are you running an AFPR?
jdub;1387081 said:The post turbo add is a wag at best
Agreed.
What would be cool is to be able to monitor each runner! I can see it now! Pod Pilars on both sides and all six holes plugged with EGT's! :biglaugh:
I know that detonation is more likely than reaching the melting point of the internals; but, what's the approximate melting point of stock (cast) over say...JE or Probe (forged) pistons? Just curious on that one...
Alright sorry, @ WOT Im seeing low low low 10's. Most of the time it just pegs 10.0 (I got a AEM Uego Wideband) and then by 5.5k or so it might hit 10.3-10.5 tops. No J-Tube bypass, just the walbro for now. Saving up monies for the fuel system. IT IS 100% Stock tune btw! Im waiting to get my SAFC Neo installed in the next few days. Also, i need to do some reading and bypass the coolant system flap thing on the back so it flows at all time. Im sure one of you know what im talking about and will elaborate a little more on this.
jdub;1387102 said:
How is this? I gave AFR's once before but ill do it again. If its WOT Its pig rich (10.0 flat on my wideband) till i get up past 5k then it might hit 10.2-10.3, which is when im getting these 1400+ EGT Readings... EGR is still in there, i figured you would think so if i didn't say anything about removing it, and ill check my timing soon, but last time i checked my timing i did set it @ 10 degrees.
Fubar231;1387104 said:
It's really, really simple...If you don't have the time to read my posts and answer the questions (instead of assuming), I don't have the time to help you.
Common courtesy is seems to be history with a lot of guys here. My ignore list seems to be growing daily lately.
dude...come on now i'll bail you out hopefully jdub will help
DO YOU HAVE EGR???
IS YOUR TIMING SET @10* BEFORE TDS AS PER THE TSRM?????
2 obvious questions you passed.
DO YOU HAVE EGR???
IS YOUR TIMING SET @10* BEFORE TDS AS PER THE TSRM?????
2 obvious questions you passed.
Fubar231;1387111 said:
Wow!
Fubar: Properly diagnosing a problem requires EVERY bit of information related to the problem. Without all the information, one cannot provide an informed solution!
ex: You have installed a Walbro 255; but, you haven't drilled out your J-Tube. There are threads upon threads about this and why it needs to be done. And yet you left that out.
Then you didn't even have the common courtesy to thoroughly read through all the posts. :3d_frown:
jdub is a wealth of information and has helped out countless individuals. He's definitely a source that you want helping you.
Fubar231;1387117 said:
Is it just me, or is it apparent that he wants to handle this all on his own?
Thanks Kenny, but this guy is a punk with an attitude. Something I do not have to tolerate and will not deal with. He will get no further assistance from me...ever.
<Mod hat on> Back on topic.
<Mod hat on> Back on topic.
CajunKenny;1387129 said:
Dude im not even gonna fight about it anymore, not gonna fight with you or jdub or anyone, not worth it. I have not yet seen one post ever about removing/drilling out the J-Tube with only installing a 255. Yes remove it for a AFPR / Injectors / Almost anything else but i have yet to hear that drilling out the J-Tube while on stock fpr... just sounds like all sorts of bad ideas. I thought i had the information needed posted, but i got no warning or anything or even "Yo we need some more info to help or were just gonna give up on you and fail fail and fail and aids!!!". I was posting what i was asked, and then i was told im doing it wrong. wtf? I didn't get on here to fight with people, but when im doing what your telling me to do then you guys dont want to help me because im apparently doing it wrong... doesn't it sound like theres something wrong there?
You need to move that egt probe right at the downpipe. Maybe extend the wire and put it right at the muffler. That should lower the temp readings
God luck man.
God luck man.
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