Titan MHG reviews

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2jzmk3

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gixxer750 said:
I've been to titan motorsports, I'm pretty sure they don't "make" anything in house. Its kinda like summit racing parts. They are just other makers parts rebranded for a little less cost.


if you have been to our shop, then you would know we make alot of [products in house. you may of visited the sales office and the front shop, but did you see of our other facilities?
doubtful..

we do not make headgaksets in house no, just like everyone else we outsource them and have them made. much like hks, greddy etc.. we stick to what we are good at, and making headgaskets or main caps is not one of them. Just like greddy rods are just rebadges Carillo. do you believe greddy makes there own intercoolers? then you would be a fool.. with that being said, what you pay us for is the technology and R&D that goes into our MHG, (just like HKS) the main difference in choosing a MHG, is how much work (material being removed) you had to do to get our head/block surfaced and how much boost your plan on running.

email me for questions or comments
Sean@Titanmotorsports.com

BTW Rich, your car is slow!
 
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Larry_A

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Apr 7, 2005
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williamb82 said:
iirc the hks mhg has an 85mm bore and he titan/cometic has an 86mm bore. now, while no one may have ever had a prob with the titan/cometic units, i will always buy the hks. i want that extra 1mm between the cylinders.
Hello William,
Cometic offers 84 & 86mm. Greddy have 83, 84, & 85mm. HK$ MHGs are all 86mm...perhaps meant to work in concert with their [now discontinued] forged Al piston sets they used to sell, the 0.040" over.

Regardless, I agree that having a larger gap is undesirable & will likely adversely affect squish:icon_conf
 

935motorsports

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1.2 is a little too small for rebuilds. Many a cracked piston agrees. It makes for great low end power, but without timing control is a recipe for disaster at high boost.

1.4 cometic (titan) at the minimum.
 

jdub

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There's more to it when you select a type and size MHG. The thickness MHG, brand of piston, and boost impacts compression pressure in the cylinders. You need to realize what pistons you choose and the machine work on the head/block does.

The stock piston size is 83mm...for each 0.020" oversize = 0.50mm. For example, a 0.040" oversize piston is an 84mm. The stock HG bore size is 84mm x 1.37mm thick

To select the thickness of a MHG (without increasing compression), you have to determine the amount of material removed from both the head and block. There is 0.040" for 1mm. If the machinist removes 0.005" of material from the head and 0.005" from the block, that is 0.010" total or 0.25mm. Since the stock Toyota HG is 1.37mm thick. Adding the above = 1.62mm thickness required to maintain stock compression on the cylinders.

The key to compression is to make sure you don't go lean under boost and cause a situation where detonation will occur. The thickness of the MHG and the compression ratio of the pistons both affect the static compression ratio. Here's the compression ratios for common pistons in the turbo 7M:

Stock = 8.4:1
JE = 8.4:1
Wisco = 9.1:1
Ross = 8.5:1

To figure your actual compression ratio, go here:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

Stock piston Specs:
Deck Height: 0.020mm
Head volume: 40cc
Piston Volume: -19cc
Bore: 83mm (3.268")
Stroke: 91mm (3.583")
Rod Length: 152mm (5.984")

There are several different types of MHGs...take a look at this link:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=216396&postcount=5

The most common is the bead and the stopper made by HKS. The bead type is good for 90% of the engines out there. If you're running a monster motor, the HKS Stopper is the MHG of choice...it is the best, but is also the most expensive.

I'll touch on one other part of this puzzle...dynamic compression ratio. This takes into account when the intake valve closes and the piston actually begins compression of the air/fuel mixture. The ratio of the cylinder volume when the intake valve closes over the volume above the piston at TDC represents the dynamic compression ratio. This is what the air fuel mixture actually "sees" and is what "counts", not the static compression ratio. However, static compression ratio impacts the dynamic ratio and for the purpose of this discussion static ratio will get the point across. If you want to play with it here's a calculator:
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/comprAdvHD.htm

What does this have to do with choice of MHG? As usual, it depends. On a stock set-up where you want to change over to a MHG, just figure out the thickness based on the amount of material removed from the head/block. You can use a Titan, Cometic, HKS or Greddy bead type and be fine...just get the one closest to the thickness to keep the stock compression ratio, follow the RA spec for decking the block/head, use ARP hardware torqued to spec, and remove rivets (if required) to avoid a bad seal. You do not want to use spray sealer on a new MHG.

On a more mid-range (400-500 HP motor), you want to consider how much boost you plan on and the pistons you use. You may want to use a thicker MHG to lower the compression ratio based on your plan. The bead type MHG's are fine for these plans. Fuel upgrades and the ability to control fuel start coming into play.

On a motor pushing the upper HP ranges, the HKS stopper is the MHG of choice...especially running 25-30 psi of boost. You need to know how the pistons you are using is affecting compression. A thicker MHG will likely be required to increase the volume of the combustion chamber.

You really can't say a MHG is the right (or wrong) choice until you know how much material is removed from the head/block. IMO, there's little difference in the manufacturer MHG quality...they will all work...go for the best price you can get for the MHG that suits your needs. I do know Cometic will make a MHG to your specs via special order...you can customize according to your needs and the RA spec required is a bit higher than a Greddy or HKS. In all cases, prep is the key and your HP plans for the motor.
 

Larry_A

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jdub said:
.....The key to compression is to make sure you don't go lean under boost and cause a situation where detonation will occur.....
Most would consider timing as important, if not more so, than fuel when discussing altered engine compression. Detonation events include a timing component to them.

.....On a more mid-range (400-500 HP motor)...the ability to control fuel start coming into play......
The need to control fuel begins at FCO, which is much lower than 400-500HP.

.....the HKS stopper is the MHG of choice...especially running 25-30 psi of boost......
I've lost count of how many guys over the years have run 20+ to 30psi on large turbos that use bead-type gaskets. Personally, I'd opt for a stopper only if I wanted 30-35psi or more from a large turbo. YMMV.
 

jdub

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Larry_A said:
Most would consider timing as important, if not more so, than fuel when discussing altered engine compression. Detonation events include a timing component to them.

You are correct Larry, timing is a big component...I don't think it's more important than fuel however. That would require a more in-depth discussion of dynamic compression ratio....that's why I touched on it, but really didn't want to write a novel. Static compression ratio was sufficient to make the point...what MHG to choose and the impact of thickness on static compression ratio.


Larry_A said:
The need to control fuel begins at FCO, which is much lower than 400-500HP.

It is without any upgrades...however, the Lex/550/AFPR/ Walbro will get you to 16psi (or even a little higher) before you hit fuel cut. All mechanical without having to use electronics to change inputs the ECU "sees". Again, I was trying to make the point you should consider the thickness and type of MHG to use...the ability to control fuel was stated in general and did not impact my point.


Larry_A said:
I've lost count of how many guys over the years have run 20+ to 30psi on large turbos that use bead-type gaskets. Personally, I'd opt for a stopper only if I wanted 30-35psi or more from a large turbo. YMMV.

IMO, considering the amount of $$$ that has to be invested in a built motor capable of the HP numbers I was alluding to...the price of an HKS Stopper is a small price to pay for the "insurance". Why risk your investment to save a few dollars?
 

jdub

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FYI - if you want to play with the dynamic compression calculator I posted above, the Inlet Valve Closes ABDC value is 38 deg. The rest of the info required is also in the above post. You can use the static compression ratio for the pistons or run the static compression calculator to get more specific.