Tire Shredder's MK2 7MGE budget NA screamer build thread

Tire Shredder

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Sep 15, 2005
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Hey guys, I thought it was time for me to post up one of these threads to help compile thoughts and get some suggestions and advice. For those that don't know me well, I'm a 19 year old originally from Minden, Ontario, attending university in Oshawa at the university of Ontario Institute of Technology as an automotive engineer. I've wanted a supra since I was 11 (originally mk3 and later mk2) and finally bought my mk2 when I turned 16. I've been working away on it ever since. I lurk often on these forums and only recently started to post. I have been a member of celicasupra.com since aug 2003 and now have 1700 non-bs posts there. I have been a member of the Toronto supra club before I owned a supra or had a driver's license...so I do know some(but not much) things and am, in every respect, an enthusiast. This brings me to my post... my car is a mk2, and I realize this is a mk3 forum but it is a supra...and it is a mk3 engine so I thought it would have some relevance being on this forum. so without further ado, the build thread!:

The Car
1984 toyota supra, hard top, P-type. 5 speed.
mods: Doug Thorley Headers, 2.5" mandrel bent stainless exhaust, high flow cat, rabid chimp intake, ST 1.3" lowering springs, 1" spring spacer to prevent rear camber, bilstein struts, KYB gas-a-just shocks, Jim King roll center adjusters. I am in the process of a brake upgrade using cressida brakes.
21b813b.jpg

more pics of my car can be found here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=445908&postcount=26
A write up I made on wheel refinishing can be found here: http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.php?t=13251

The Idea
The plan for this project came up around the previous fall when Alex (Kingsoup) and had a conversation regarding the merits of the 7mge motor at a Toronto supra club monthly meet. Later conversations involved Dean Anderson (Dean). We talked about how neglected the 7mge is in comparison the the 7mgte and even the 6mge engine swaps. We believed that the swap could be done cheaply and reliably enough to have some fun with your mk2, make it feel like it should have from the factory. We thought it would generally wake the whole chassis up, without having issues with transmissions and differentials breaking. Without the added cost of fabricating a new exhaust and intercooler piping, worrying about oil filter relocations, coolers and oil lines. The higher reliability of an N/A vs. turbo engine was there aswell (lets not argue about this, there simply is more things to go wrong with a turbo). When installed in a mk2, the 7m should propel the 3000lb mk2 into the 14s at the track and maybe keep up with a few mk3 turbos...cheaply. It all seems like a great package. We toyed with the idea of some basic fuel management and throwing some reground camshafts at it to get the most out of the more advanced, ported 24 valve head. I laid awake in bed dreaming of my very own budget NA screamer, and thinking of how I would get things done.

As talks continued my plans evolved slightly...I wanted to do a little more than just install it. Thus far the plans are:
-get a cheap 7mge
-replace bearings if necessary, install new rings
-clean head, hand lap valves, port work and port match myself, proper valve job if necessary
-shave head and or block to increase compression to aprx. 10.5:1
-new gaskets, oil pump (eBay)
-later, install a maft-pro to tune fuel and timing, integrated with LC-1 (could be used later with a turbo build, so good investment)
-after the bugs are worked out, install reground camshafts to use the engine to redline. 222duration at .50 though cam grinds have been selected (open to suggestions)
-it has to look good when installed.

this (we?I think) should allow for 200whp NA achievable.

on initial start up, the Thorley headers and 2.5" Brullen will bolt up, and an intake fabricated.

everything will be done "one the cheap" but not half-assed, I intend to get "quick(not fast), cheap and reliable" out of it, and have all three :)

The story
last spring, I was at Orville's house (local Toyota mechanic and club member). While he was fixing sawbladz's car, I was going to give a hand with his head replacement. In the Garage bay was an 87 N/A supra. The car ran nicely with no smoke or nasty noises, not so much as an engine miss. I was examining the wiring and vacuum lines when Orville asked if I wanted to buy the motor - everything, since it was undergoing a turbo drivetrain swap. We bartered down to $350 when I finally decided no, I didn't need to spend the money on it yet. Later in the month I went to the spring PA mk2 meet where Darcy had nearly all the 7mge parts from his car in his trunk and was handing them out for free. I got the head and many other misc. parts which I brought back to Canada. The head was in good shape and apparently rebuilt recently. I got a call from Orville wondering if I wanted the engine still, since he couldn't find a buyer for it. He had heard I got a head in good shape and since that was the only usable part (to him) he could have off the N/A, I traded him the head and cams for the complete 7MGE engine with harness and igniter. The engine is missing some accessories and EGR...which will be sourced later.

Cliff notes:
Free, well running 7MGE in my hands.

I was able to get the engine back to my house in Oshawa (where I attend university) where I started disassembling and inspecting the parts.

here's the engine when I got it
4ue057r.jpg


Let The Teardown Begin!
Time to start taking it apart, bagging, labeling and taking lots of pics!

some manifolds off
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valve cover off
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Cams!
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Lobes look good, very little wear (not like my 5m!)
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The valve covers, I'm thinking polished with black lettering.
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Engine harness. nasty, but free
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taking apart the timing stuff
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Just bought this bit 10 minutes before the picture. The store owner and I joked about a lifetime warranty. trying to get a head bolt off and it snapped. I got a cut in my wrist when it let go. I did have a pipe on the end of it though haha. I returned it and got my money back. I bought a shorter, mastercraft version which did the trick.
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bought an engine stand! nice to not work on the ground. timing stuff is off too.
4ujki9v.jpg

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The oil pan: will be replaced with a mk2 front sump unit.
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This is where all the pistons and stuff attach :)
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no trash on the screen. yaay!
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Oil pan, no trash. yaay!
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3L>2.8L
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taking the bearing caps off, no signs of any knocking. They all looked like this - very good! by now the butterflies worrying about spun bearings and scored pistons are gone, this is turning out to be fun!
4qd9pu8.jpg
 
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Tire Shredder

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Sep 15, 2005
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The block empty. pistons looked good and score-free aswell, just some discolouring from general blow-by, but other than that...should be a cheap machine shop bill!
5z3wuiw.jpg


crank journals look perfect
6eyj0nm.jpg


crank out of the block
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Everything is packaged and ready to head to the machine shop! within the next couple weeks I'll give them the head to clean and inspect it. Hopefully a full valve job is not required. Once cleaned, I'll start porting the head. You can look forward to pictures being thrown up here any time I do something on the motor.

The engine gasket set is ordered and should arrive within the week, look forward to seeing some pictures of manifold port matching.

any comments, good or bad are welcome here, I'd love to see some discussion going and gain some knowledge from more experienced members

Steve
 

foreverpsycotic

Back in the game!
Jul 16, 2006
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i would not reccomend shaving the block and or head to achieve a higher CR on any engine.
other than that, i LOVE the supra and thats a nice motor
 

Tire Shredder

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psycotic: there are a couple people I know of that have raised the compression ratio without using custom pistons with success. I will wait until my machine shop takes some deck height measurements and vale clearance and see what can be done reasonably before I make a decision. I understand it will throw cam timing off (remedied mostly with adjustable cam gears), and it is a bad idea to shave from the head due to changing combustion chamber shape (which would be avoided). Ed in Australia (now 7ma61s car) modified a 7mge to run 10.5: compression by taking roughly 1mm total away from the block and head. he had to shave the pistons by .85mm to do so. I still have to weigh the pros and cons, may not be worth the 10hp.

DL and BorHor: thanks for the compliments, no pics of the wrist. was not bad, nothing a bandaid and beer couldn't fix.
 

starscream5000

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Aug 23, 2006
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Great start to a very promising build!

That has got to be the cleanest, most dead sexy looking MKII I've ever seen!!

Be careful with shaving material off the head and block, try to steer away from the engine becoming an interferance type.
 

Tire Shredder

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thanks guys

SS5000: not too concerned about making it interference. I maintain my car ery well and would change the timing belt long before it ever thought of breaking, or oil getting on it. Again, I have to make some REAL measurements instead of this guessing BS and "here say" and see if it's actually possible, more on this will be posted later.
 

Tire Shredder

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Was just doing some reading on the chevy valve spring install and it seems like a good idea. would the be required for my application though? I dont' have a desire to rev it past redline, and my camshafts will be ground with that in mind. Has anybody been running these for a long period of time and could comment on their effectiveness? The only thing I'm concerned about is excessive cam wear, any thoughts on this?
 
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starscream5000

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Aug 23, 2006
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I'm thinking suprarich may sell them, he may also have some, others that may have them installed that you could ask over PM: adjuster, theknifeartist, maybe the good doc too...
 

Doward

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Jan 11, 2006
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Avoid cutting the head/block more than necessary - remember, that will change up your valve timing ;)

Go with the Comp Cams 975s, and a set of BC 272 cams. I believe Wiseco has forged 10:1 pistons for the GE, btw ;)
 

starscream5000

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Aug 23, 2006
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Too bad he's not going turbo, then he could get a killer deal on some custom made Probe pistons being designed by the company based on what we want. How many companies will mass produce a set of pistons based on what the customer tells them to do with the specs? ;)
 

Sawbladz

Supramania Contributor
Mar 14, 2006
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I think he should buy a set that are bored 0.020 over and set them on the shelf.:evil2:

Steve...you know your coming to the dark side eventually...and these would make SICK paper weights. :biglaugh:
 

Adjuster

Supramania Contributor
I would not shave the head or block more than you need to restore the RA on both for a good gasket seal.

Get the CR increase with different pistons if you really think it's worth it. (I have 9:1 pistons in my engine, and it does make it more fun off idle, yet allows for running the boost levels I want too.)

If you want to use the stock pistons again, if your budget can go there, I'd coat the crown of your stock pistons with thermal barrier from techlinecoatings.com. (You can do it yourself, Just have to sand blast the crowns, then spray them with the coating from a cheap air brush, and bake them in your oven..) It will help to prevent damage from detonation. (Assuming your going to get your higher CR.)

It sounds like you really want to go turbocharged in the future. (Maft Pro mods and all.) Why not just build your motor for that turbo now? (Stock pistons are not the way to go, even coated, they are much weaker than forged ones.)

PM me if your interested in a set of fully coated ROSS pistons that have only been run for 15 min. I also have ARP rod bolts and 8 good rods... just sitting around for a past few years now... LOL

Highly reccomend the spring upgrade. They are in my latest motor, no problems, and we checked the pressure, and it's only about 10 lbs over the stock seat pressure given for the 2JZ engine. Should not cause excessive wear on the cams/lifters.

BTW, that is one very clean 84. :) Makes me miss my 82.
 

Sawbladz

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Mar 14, 2006
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I have been talking with Steve and I think he may have abandoned the idea of shaving the block. The gains to be had are not that great and possibly have negative side effects. I know he wants to eventually go turbo but he has more self control than most and won't be convinced till he is out of school and has the money. Beleive me...I've tried. lol

Steve...have you dropped the head or any other stuff off to Brad at the machine shop? Do you have any more pics? I'm bored and sick of studying Differentials...I need to be entertained. Anyways...I'll see ya at the meet.
 

Tire Shredder

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Sep 15, 2005
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Hey guys, thanks for all the info and suggestions. those valve springs sound like the hot ticket.

Re going turbo: there's a high chance I eventually will go turbo, there's no denying the power it can generate...and lag is overrated. I refuse to half-ass or rather, under fund a turbo build. For me to be happy with it, no corners could be cut and everything would have to be considered - it would be done right. One thing to consider is that when you install a turbo engine in a mk2, it stresses parts that were only designed to ever see 160hp...as soon as you install a 7mgte, you're over doubling the power it was ever meant to handle. Although the parts are very robust (as expected) you run risks, and thinks will break, especially around the 300hp range. Transmission, differential and clutch are all required. Wheels and tires become an issue etc. What I am saying is there is more to it than just a turbo installation...the car has to be prepared for it (more $$$$). With more serious modifications such as this, even when many hours is invested into research and work, the vehicle will most likely be less reliable than the NA (lets not argue, parts are more stressed....there simply is more things to go wrong) which I cannot deal with now, nor in the near future as this supra is my only car.

The reason I am keeping this a "budget" build is so I don't feel bad if the results aren't astonishing. This build will always be overshadowed by what a turbo swap could have been, and I hate to hear "I told you so" when I invest too much and the car doesn't perform. The second I start spending money on things that don't matter, aren't necessary, can't be reused or sold later, I've defeated the purpose of it - I might as well have gone turbo from the beginning. If/When the car gets a turbo it would be 5-10 years in the future, when I have my university degree with a stead job, a place to live and when the mk2 undergoes a full restoration - do it all at once, since every piece of the drive train should be touched.

That being said, this will be a cheap swap, done properly with money spent in the right areas to quicken up my mk2 and still remain reliable.

Phew there...now I don't have to answer anymore turbo questions :D

Anything other than stock pistons is out of the question. I took some measurements myself and examined the head. It looks like the head squish area will be effected too much with shaving (and cam timing effected aswell....however would be remedied with adjustable cam gears, as planned). Now, this could be offset by decking the block more and shaving the tops of the pistons by about .85mm or so to prevent the pistons smashing into the head which is some cost...and an additional cost to rebalanced the entire rotating assembly. That's a significant cost for 7hp increase (as I calculated). I think the aprox. $300 in machine work is much better of spent on camshafts, which would be a much more efficient hp/$ ratio. I do realize gains are compounded, but you understand where I am coming from now :) The combination of higher compression ratio and a weird combustion chamber may also increase the chances of detonation as well. If the motor cannot run properly on 91(shell etc.)/94(sunoco) octane pump gas, it will become totally useless to me. In my opinion, a street car that requires octane booster in every tank of gas is not acceptable. Again, I will reserve my final decision until I have advice from the machine shop.

Adjuster: although the springs have been working fine, do you notice an improvement over stock at higher rpm?

Re: synthetic oil: Once broken in, the car, without a doubt, will have quality synthetic oil in it at all times, with a quality filter. German castrol 0w30 seems like the best oil available off the shelf, but I may use mobil1 simply because of it's availability. I understand it's a group III based and not a full synthetic, but if I am on a road trip and need to top up the oil for some reason, the chances of me finding mobil1 compared to GC in a gas station are much higher. Although it's a group III, when changed regularly, I'm sure it's still a great oil. Where's Jdub when you need him? haha

I really wish I was running synthetic right now, but I can't justify the cost on a 282,000km engine, doesn't seem to make sense to preserve something that's already had a large amount of wear on every surface.
 
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