Timing?
- Thread starter steven89
- Start date
Are both cam gear index marks lined up with the marks on the back plate?
The pic is making the driver's side look off.
The pic is making the driver's side look off.
^^^ Yeah...by about one tooth.
The index marks should be lined up with the plate when the crank dampner is at "0".
The index marks should be lined up with the plate when the crank dampner is at "0".
i looked at it and theyre both identical as far as position goes...just had to look at it from a different angle... ill get another pic just to make sure
they actually look okay to me.... it looks to me that they are both a little right of the marks, turn the crank a little counter clockwise and they look to me like they will both line up, i think one tooth to the left on the intake would be too far..... i dunno its hard to tell from the pics
ok so if the intake cam was off by one tooth.. or if both of em were off by a tooth... would that make the car run like crap? cuz thats what its doing right now..
Yeah, it would. Did you turn turn engine over 720 degrees and see if the marks lined up again like the book says to do?
yeah, but they both seem to be like a tooth too far to the right.. that would make it run REALLY bad huh?
They need to be straight up with the crank at zero. If they were off to the right and the crank was at zero after two revs it's wrong. One problem I've seen is how the timing cover is sloppy in it's mounting holes. That can lead to the marks being shifted a little. The cover must be level to the head and pushed straight down before tightening it. Do that and it'll be easier to get the cam sprocket marks lined up correctly. Ignition timing (CPS) also must be right.
You may have other problems too. Usually after I do that much work on an engine I go through a whole bunch of things before proclaiming it fit. Everything from leak checks to emissions to monitoring O2 and Vf. You shouldn't just jump in and drive it.
I also clean, inspect, and test many parts while off the car. Wastegate, sensors, alternator bearings and brushes, fan clutch, power steering pump, AC compressor, etc. Everything gets tested, calibrated, or serviced if it can be. Just pulling the engine apart and putting it back together isn't enough. If you want reliability the devil is in the details.
You may have other problems too. Usually after I do that much work on an engine I go through a whole bunch of things before proclaiming it fit. Everything from leak checks to emissions to monitoring O2 and Vf. You shouldn't just jump in and drive it.
I also clean, inspect, and test many parts while off the car. Wastegate, sensors, alternator bearings and brushes, fan clutch, power steering pump, AC compressor, etc. Everything gets tested, calibrated, or serviced if it can be. Just pulling the engine apart and putting it back together isn't enough. If you want reliability the devil is in the details.
Yeah, ill put everything back to TDC tomorrow.. What section in the TSRM is it for how to set the CPS though? i cant find it..
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
With the engine at TDC on the compression stoke install the CPS with the groove and drill mark aligned and the slot on the CPS centered on bolt hole on the head:
http://tinyurl.com/2al9zg
You can also line up the groove and drill mark and use a pencil or sharpie to mark across the rotor and housing up front where you can see it. Use that to be sure everything is lined up after you install it. You might have to back it off a bit to get it to line up as you push it in. Even if you don't get it dead on don't worry, they'll be enough adjustment left to time the engine if the slot is somewhat centered on the bolt hole in the head.
If you ever have to take it out again mark it as I said above. That way you won't have to mess with setting TDC. Just don't turn the engine over while it's out.
http://tinyurl.com/2al9zg
You can also line up the groove and drill mark and use a pencil or sharpie to mark across the rotor and housing up front where you can see it. Use that to be sure everything is lined up after you install it. You might have to back it off a bit to get it to line up as you push it in. Even if you don't get it dead on don't worry, they'll be enough adjustment left to time the engine if the slot is somewhat centered on the bolt hole in the head.
If you ever have to take it out again mark it as I said above. That way you won't have to mess with setting TDC. Just don't turn the engine over while it's out.
just confirmed that both cams are off by a tooth (one tooth to far to the right). Both cams being off by 1 tooth would make it not EVER run right... right? Going to correct this.. redo the CPS timing and see what happens
Thanks once again!
Thanks once again!
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Corrected it today and now it runs a lot better and doesnt hesitate when i try to revv it.. Thanks for helpin me out with timing!! But now for some reason.. once it gets above 2500-2600rpms and i let off the gas.. the BOV will vent and it completely dies out.. do i need to recirculate my BOV then?