timing

Joel W.

Just A Jedi
Nov 7, 2005
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That is how it is supposed to work when the diag jumper is installed man. :) You got it...

I would still replace the return springs, (I think I have 2 stock) One pulling down to the dash pot, and one pulling the linkage to the passenger side..

You should be able to set the timing with ease now.. :)
 
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bigaaron

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Apr 12, 2005
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cjpp78 said:
so your saying that its o.k if the 51 flashes when I press gas pedal only? I have read some post on here that say you have it set if it does that, which is which? I have the new tps now and it does the same thing, set it up and still flashes 51 when I press gas p, light flashes normal when I release pedal.

Yeah, that is what it is supposed to do but if it has 200k miles on it I would replace the tps anyway. They can be intermittent and stick when they get hot or cold.
 

cjpp78

New Member
Apr 3, 2006
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yea I went ahead and replaced it, everything runs much better now. The old one still worked , just out of adjustment and probably sticks at times.

After adjusting the new tps I can now properly adjust my timing. Acceleration is much smoother now and air fuel ratios are much better in closed loop.

thanks to everyone for the info on fixing the problem
 

Bishop92t

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Apr 18, 2005
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This isn't 100% but usually code 51 is TPS alignment meaning the TPS is still good. Code 41 typically is bad TPS. It can get kind of tricky with previous owners or mechanics adjusting pieces on the throttle that were not meant to be adjusted.
 

bigaaron

Supramania Contributor
Apr 12, 2005
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Bishop92t said:
This isn't 100% but usually code 51 is TPS alignment meaning the TPS is still good. Code 41 typically is bad TPS. It can get kind of tricky with previous owners or mechanics adjusting pieces on the throttle that were not meant to be adjusted.


I beg to differ. If the code popped up all of a sudden, then obviously something went wrong. If the throttle is stuck or the tps screws are loose, then mabye the tps is ok, otherwise the tps is sticking or has a bad resistor pad inside and should probably be replaced.
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
cjpp78 said:
Befor the adjustment the 51 code would display as soon as diagnostic box was jumpered. With the adjustment ,it only displays after I turn the throttle lever.

Joel and Bishop did a great job here. Yes, that's how it's supposed to work. It was clear the IDL contact wasn't closed before because of the code 51 and because you can't set base timing with it open. Keep in mind the TPS has two distinct and separate internal parts and must be treated as such when troubleshooting.

200K miles on a TPS is asking for trouble. They almost always develop a flat spot around 25-30% throttle by then if they don't end up sticking.

As for codes, 51 relates only to the IDL contact while 41 is for the potentiometer. Both will be set in memeory but 51 won't illuminate the MIL while 41 will. Code 51 is mainly for diagnostic purposes and is shared with the A/C clutch and neutral start switch.

All that monkey motion used to set the TPS is mainly for emissions purposes. In truth the TPS throttle angle and IDL contact isn't all that critical. As long as IDL is closed when the throttle is closed and the pot is somewhere within the specs it it doesn't matter, if you don't take emissions into consideration.

Fwiw the TPS doesn't carry a lot of weight with the ECU, especially during cruise. You could unplug your TPS and drive around all day without noticing any difference in how the car runs. The ECU will run the engine just fine without it but emissions will go up slightly and the idle speed might be different.
 
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Joel W.

Just A Jedi
Nov 7, 2005
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Thanks JJ: That means a lot coming from you...:)

You once mentioned codes that won't light the MIL. I was wondering what they were?

Not sure if this is the right thread but what the heck..
 
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jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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Joel, keeping in mind TCCS firmware varies among Toyota models, model years, and countries the following diagnostic codes (according to Toyota) will not illuminate the MIL under normal conditions ie; T and E1 in the diag block is not jumpered:

1) The "normal" code (duh ;))

2) 11 ECU power

3) 24 Air Temp, except in California cars

4) 41 TPS VTA fault, except in California cars

5) 42 Vehicle speed sensor

6) 43 STA (starter) signal fault.

7) 51 TPS IDL contact fault

8) 71 EGR Temp fault, except in so equipped California cars

There are also others but they only apply to cars sold outside the US, Canada, and OZ. I've not included them to avoid confusion. For example none of the O2 sensor codes will light the MIL on cars that were destined for sale outside of those countries.

There are also conditions that must be met for certain codes to be set whether they illuminate the MIL or not ie; time and rpm, two trip detection (the fault must occur twice with an ignition key cycle separating them), ect. Lets just say that little box sitting behind your glove compartment is a lot "smarter" than many realize.

It's a reason to check for codes on occasion, say during an oil change, even if the car seems to be running OK. I have switch in my glove box that lets me do it whenever I want.
 
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