timing

[cjpp78]

just checked my ignition timing today, it was off a bit. when I attempted to bring it back down to stock it would go no lower than 15 degrees. I pulled cam sensor all the way up with e1/te1 jumpered and it will just not go lower than 15 degrees. could cam or crank timing be off?

Another funny thing is that the timing mark does not jump around when e1/te1 is not jumpered, stays the same jumpered or not. In the past when it was not jumpered the timing mark would be all over the place.

 

[Supracentral]

Sounds like the CPS is off by a tooth - retard it one tooth and try again.

 

[Joel W.]

If that does not work, this sounds similar to what happened when my TPS was out of adjustment. I tried moving teeth on the cps but it would not let me hit 10 degrees. I think the ecu thought I had the throttle open when it was not. I think it was advancing the timing. I was able to set the timing again once the tps had continuity between E2 and IDL. It could be I am way off here so anyone feel free to straighten me out or confirm it please...

JJ's gonna rip me a new one if im wrong LOL :biglaugh:

 

[cjpp78]

Thanks mike,joel. I was just told something similar befor reading your replys. what do you think, am I o.k at 15 or should I bring it back down to 10-12 degrees?

 

[Bishop92t]

If you haven't reset the ECU codes lately then check them and make sure you don't have any codes. There are quite a few codes that can freak the ECU into messing with the timing in an abnormal way.

 

[cjpp78]

I checked for codes, I have a code 51. car manual just says switch for code 51. what is that and would it affect the ecu?

 

[Bishop92t]

Code 51 is TPS, which can definitely make the ECU mess with timing. You need to adjust your TPS until the code goes away. Then you will be able to reliably check the timing, although I would suspect your CPS is still off a tooth, this would only explain the timing not jumping around.

 

[Joel W.]

Whew...:wiggle:

 

[cjpp78]

hate to sound dumb but as long as I have had this car thats something I have never done. How do you adjust tps? I remember a few weeks ago the throttle was sticking and the throttle % on the afc was not reading right. That problem seemed to just have went away but maybe this is a related issue of that.

 

[Joel W.]

It may still be the linkage that is not letting the throttle plate fully close or the dash pot may be keeping the throttle at high idle and the TPS is just the mechanism that trips the code your seeing.

 

[Bishop92t]

The TPS on the 7m is actually extremely sensitive. If the ECU doesn't get exactly the signal it expects it throws a code 51. Most of the time the TPS just needs a little adjustment. You'll need a set of feeler gauges, a multimeter/ohmmeter and a philips screwdriver. Use the TSRM http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_101.html procedure to adjust it.

 

[cjpp78]

o.k guys, I had some time to mess with my problems today. started with the code 51. This only comes on when I jumper the diagnostic box and the ac was not on when I did this.

I checked the tps with an ohm meter and this is what I got.

Throttle fully closed = 00.82
Throttle fully open VTA-E2 = 04.70
Throttle fully open VC-E2 = 06.51
These seem to be in range according to tsrm on line. Funny thing to me though is that throttle screw and stop lever, atleast what I think is the stop lever dont seem to fully touch. This is why I couldn't measure resistance at 0.5mm and 0.9mm.
Would this mean that the tps still needs adjusting?
other things to mention is that I have a safc, lex/550 combo and sp57gt turbo. Other than thrown code, car acts a little funny when building boost at light throttle.

 

[Joel W.]

Again, I think what you said about your linkage problem is keeping the throttle open slightly. Make sure there is some play in the throttle cable itself..

 

[cjpp78]

linkage seems to be o.k, there is a little play in throttle cable like it should be.

is the throtle screw that I should put a thickness gauge between, on top or bottom of left side of throttle body? I have been looking at the bottom one until just now and realised there is one right behind where the throttle rod attaches to throttle body.

If the top screw is the right one, when I put 0.5mm between it and lever (idl-e2) I get 0 resistance. when I put 0.9mm between it (idl-e2), I get 0 resistance.

car idles in 900s-1000rpm, just crank it with tps not hooked up and it ran the same. alternator is making a bit of noise also, just throwing everything out

 

[Joel W.]

Ok, I think the manual says on page FI-103 of the link above that you need use a .70mm and adjust the TPS untill there is continuity and you should be good to go on adjusting the timing... the bottom picture on page 103 shows where to insert the feeler gauge...

Step B Use a .70mm feeler to set the thickness.
Step C is adjusting TPS untill there is continuity between idl-e2
Step D is just doublechecking once the screws are tight to verify its accurate... continuity at .50mm and no continuity at .90mm

should be good to go ...

 

[bigaaron]

TPS go bad very often. If you adjust it and still can't get it right it might be stuck or just worn out. Take it off and make sure the spring returns it easily and it turns freely.

 

[cjpp78]

o.k I have been taking my measurements at the wrong spot. in the pic above I see more clearly where to do it at. will give the adjustment a try and see what pops up.

 

[cjpp78]

to all that said the tps is a pain in the ass, your right , I hate it. Been trying to adjust this thing with no luck so far. This is how I went about it.

1. Adjusted lever screw so that there was 0.00mm between lever and stop screw. 2. I placed .70 mm gauge in place and adjusted for continuity. 3. adjusted for continuity at .50mm and no continuity at .90mm.

4. after rechecking all the above, plugged tps back into harness and checked for codes. Befor the adjustment the 51 code would display as soon as diagnostic box was jumpered. With the adjustment ,it only displays after I turn the throttle lever. I have adjusted and adjusted, cant get it right.

Took tps out of throttle body, the only thing I noticed is that the spring seems a little tired on the return position. Dosnt always come to a full rest against the little plastic stops. Going to get a new one from toyota today and try it, this one has over 200,000 miles on it so I wouldn't be shocked if its bad.

 

[Joel W.]

Sounds like you got her licked now man.. Good job....

 

[cjpp78]

so your saying that its o.k if the 51 flashes when I press gas pedal only? I have read some post on here that say you have it set if it does that, which is which? I have the new tps now and it does the same thing, set it up and still flashes 51 when I press gas p, light flashes normal when I release pedal.