Timing belt slipping

[CRE]

The Crank timing pulley, the two "guides" are not crimped on. They are one with the crank timing pulley iteself!

Bullshit buddy... I've had two in my hands only a few weeks ago. They're crimped on. As i said, if I can find some pics I'll post them up... just for you.






You know, given that the crankshaft timing pulley is the ONLY pulley in that location with any sort of retainer, guide or whatever the hell you want me to call them I think it would be rather obvious.




EDIT:

I found a pic, although the detail isn't great. I'll try to find the pics of my old stocker when I get home. This pic show's approx the same number of crimp point that my failed pulley had. The new replacement had about twice as many. the replacement is a Toyota branded replacement.

Crimped:

 

[figgie]

Bullshit buddy... I've had two in my hands only a few weeks ago. They're crimped on. As i said, if I can find some pics I'll post them up... just for you.






You know, given that the crankshaft timing pulley is the ONLY pulley in that location with any sort of retainer, guide or whatever the hell you want me to call them I think it would be rather obvious.

As Terrance and Phillip say...

I ain't your buddy! Guy!

Now as to your other statement. It does not matter what you "think" it is called. Clearly (and aparently not since I had to dig the damn image up) the TSRM states what it is.


Now I can see how the word "back" pressure came into existance!

 

[CRE]

The thing that matters here is that ALMOST everyone who posted in this thread has proven to be equipped with enough problem solving ability to figure out what part was under discussion.

What the hell does this have to do with back pressure? Now you're just grasping... take a xanax and chill.

 

[figgie]

What the hell does this have to do with back pressure? Now you're just grasping... take a xanax and chill.

As always, my posts go above everyone heads. Not surprised.

It is quite simple actually.

Conjuring up words out of no where (or pulling words out of ass, take your pick) to describe what has already been defined by Toyota which happens to be exactly what happened with the word "back" pressure. There are no fluid mechanic books mention that "back" pressure but yet we have people on here and else where regurgitating that word without any clue to what it means.

as for me chilling. I am. Just keep in mind that this is the technical forum for 7m-GE, that means facts.

I await your pictures!

 

[CRE]

I await your pictures!

Sigh.... look up. :3d_frown:

 

[figgie]

Sigh.... look up. :3d_frown:

Don't see anything.

If it is photobucket or Flickr, or any other of those public image hosting services. No access.

Just attach them here under the go advanced reply instead.

 

[CyFi6]

OP

check the oil crank pulley and see if it is "wobbling". More than likely that will be your cause if the bolt sheared.

I see no "oil crank pulley" in the tsrm anywhere... oh brother give me a break.:icon_roll

 

[figgie]

I see no "oil crank pulley" in the tsrm anywhere... oh brother give me a break.:icon_roll

no breaks, but on that note. That is exactly why I posted the correct terminology on the post after that.

Any other questions?

 

[CRE]

I see no "oil crank pulley" in the tsrm anywhere... oh brother give me a break.:icon_roll

:biglaugh:


As stated, it's not the clearest image, but it is very easy to see the crimp points. (I'm pretty sure I've got better pics of both of mine)

 

[figgie]

:biglaugh:


As stated, it's not the clearest image, but it is very easy to see the crimp points. (I'm pretty sure I've got better pics of both of mine)

View attachment 24915

it is dark on my monitor..........let me edit.

This is the best I can come up with. If those are not it. Then I need a better picture.

 

[CRE]

Yup.



Here's one more cleaned up pic (It's big, so click on it a second time after it opens in the screen with the black background to see it close and detailed.):

 

[figgie]

so the question becomes how many miles did you have on yours?

I am going to have to go home and beat on my 225k mile one and see if it pops.

 

[CRE]

Oh, around 160K... how about the rest of you?

I imagine there are other possible causes for this other than just wear and tear. If another pulley in there came loose or were not spinning truly on it's axis I could see the belt putting enough pressure (over time) to weaken the crimps. I'm sure there's a reason Toyota decided to double the number of crimp points though.

 

[figgie]

Oh, around 160K... how about the rest of you?

I imagine there are other possible causes for this other than just wear and tear. If another pulley in there came loose or were not spinning truly on it's axis I could see the belt putting enough pressure (over time) to weaken the crimps. I'm sure there's a reason Toyota decided to double the number of crimp points though.

The only pulley I can see causing that is the Oil pump drive pulley. I had the bolt on that one shear causing that pulley to wobble. Sounded like rod knock but not as loud.

 

[CRE]

The ponly pulley I can see causing that is the Oil pump drive pulley.

Agreed, there are a couple possibilities aside normal wear and tear. I checked everything that I didn't replace very thoroughly as i don't intend on having to fix that again any time soon. I imagine the crank moving forward and back (even a minuscule amount) could cause this over time, or the belt wearing in such a way as to allow for stretching on one side but not the other and so on... Anything that may cause the belt to want to drift forward or back can cause enough pressure over time to weaken those crimps.

A pulley that's wobbling as you describe would probably do the job in a matter of hours in most cases.

 

[figgie]

Well the cause of mine was due to head lifting due to boosting to much with a TD06. Had to trash the oil pump drive shaft as I could not exctract the sheared bolt.

 

[CRE]

Was that the sum of the damage? The hell with the pulley, I could imagine that kind of thrashing taking its toll on the crank pretty fast.




Heh, I almost killed my timing belt when I swapped the crank timing pulley. I forgot to torque down one of the camshaft timing pulleys (the intake side). It came loose right after I started the engine. Opened everything back up and it (the camshaft timing pulley) had already moved about an 1/8 inch forward. Probably could have done a lot of damage had the gear waited to come off until I was in gear at a high RPM.

 

[IJ.]

They're "staked"

If everything is right the belt "should" track to centre on it's own as the driver should be parallel to the rest of the pullies.

Only time this changes is when the minimum wage machinist cuts the Head surface on an angle though crap machine set up.

Over tightening the Tensioner will cause tracking issues as well so the "guides will keep the belt in place when something isn't right.
(now and again you get a belt that has some taper in it and won't track but usually frays pretty badly early on)

 

[cuel]

For the OP: If the belt is coming off that fast, he's having a pulley issue. I would suspect the cam pullies first, as he could have set them wrong, and not have the alignment pin in the pulley hole, cocking the pulley and tossing the belt.

As for the crank pulley, I've had the same problem as CRE, so the problem was easy to spot. Every timing belt motor I've done has a guide at the crank to prevent belt walk. Most are usually a plate that's sandwiched between the dampener and the timing pulley. I've seen the belt walk on motors that have never been apart, other than doing the timing belt, because that guide was left out. Even with the tensioner torqued correctly. This isn't at all unheard of...