Timing belt firsttimer.

[7mCooMo]

OK so i am think about saving my self like 700 bucks and replacing the timing belt myself. Just want to go through the steps to make sure i am not missing any thing.

Disconnect Negative battery cable
Loosen drive belts
Remove radiator and fan clutch/shroud
Remove drivebelts
Set number one piston to TDC
Remove crankshaft pulley
Remove Air condition compressor (witch hoses are the refrigerant hoses?)
Remove timing belt covers
Remove timing belt
Put new timing belt on
Rotate crankshaft pulley 2 complete revolutions ending with timing marks on the drive belt pulley and timing belt cover timing mark at 0

Put everything back together

any tips would be very helpful

 

[mazzer]

do yourself a favor and don't take anything apart, until you get the crank pulley bolt out. some resort to resting a breaker-bar against the ground and turning the engine over with the starter,to break it loose.


did you buy a new tensioner spring? there's a procedure for setting belt tension

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=22

 

[7mCooMo]

do yourself a favor and don't take anything apart, until you get the crank pulley bolt out. some resort to resting a breaker-bar against the ground and turning the engine over with the starter,to break it loose.


did you buy a new tensioner spring? there's a procedure for setting belt tension

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=22

so before i do anything take the bolt out, and then continue from there? if i just rented an air impact wrench would that be a lot easier?

 

[mazzer]

so before i do anything take the bolt out, and then continue from there? if i just rented an air impact wrench would that be a lot easier?

in a perfect world, yes. unfortunately the impact prob won't get it off. esp not a rental

 

[Guyana00]

Who was charging 700?

 

[mazzer]

Who was charging 700?

+1

that's nuts!

i think we only charge $299 for 6 cyl timing belt, at the dealer.

 

[7mCooMo]

DAMN! ok well it looks like imma have to go with the breaker bar and rubber hammer, or the other way you said.

my local shop, well they were charging me like 650 but that also with a new water pump. either way timing belt replacement is a frick load of money that seems alot cheaper if i do it my self.


do i have to jam the fly wheel when loosening the bolt in order to keep TDC?

also do i really have to take of the air conditioner compressor?

 

[7mCooMo]

+1

that's nuts!

i think we only charge $299 for 6 cyl timing belt, at the dealer.

wow i just called my local toyota dealer and the quoted me $269 :naughty:

y is my shop trying to rip me off.....

 

[Nick M]

I can't say my small IR 3/8 impact met a crank bolt it wouldn't loosen.

For the experienced, this is a 1.5 hour job, tops.

 

[7mCooMo]

well im not that experienced haha. i hope i can get it done in a day, with no problems...

 

[Burntz]

I JUST did mine, here is what you do:

*Take all the nuts/bolts off the a/c compressor. Don't disconnect lines, just get it off the studs and move it
*Taking off the fan clutch makes life easier.
*remove the top timing cover
*What I did for the crank pulley was: took splash pan off tranny (manual), stuck a thick screwdriver in the teeth, got a breaker bar and a cheater bar, and pulled on that S.O.B. I had all my shit dis-assembled and it worked fine. Get a steering wheel/harmonic balancer puller to get the pulley off
*Undo that spring, loosen the tensioner pulley. Top dead center is when that keyway mark on the crank pulley us pointing straight up, or get a long straw and stick it down the #1 sparkplug hole and watch it move as you turn the crank.
*Put the new belt on, both cam gears should have the notch pointing straight up. Crank keyway straight up. Put belt on tightly with as little slack. Have the exhaust cam a tooth to the right, because when you tension it, it moves that cam gear a tooth back. Get that pulley tight, tighten bolt, put spring on.
*Clean the crank snouth and inside of pulley good, and it will slide back on easy. Just get something short and flat, put it against it, and tap tap tap it back on. Put pulley bolt back on the same way, screwdriver in flywheel and breaker bar.
*Bottom timing cover back on, idler pulley bracket next, top timing cover. and your should pretty much be good to go.

 

[7mCooMo]

I JUST did mine, here is what you do:

*Take all the nuts/bolts off the a/c compressor. Don't disconnect lines, just get it off the studs and move it
*Taking off the fan clutch makes life easier.
*remove the top timing cover
*What I did for the crank pulley was: took splash pan off tranny (manual), stuck a thick screwdriver in the teeth, got a breaker bar and a cheater bar, and pulled on that S.O.B. I had all my shit dis-assembled and it worked fine. Get a steering wheel/harmonic balancer puller to get the pulley off
*Undo that spring, loosen the tensioner pulley. Top dead center is when that keyway mark on the crank pulley us pointing straight up, or get a long straw and stick it down the #1 sparkplug hole and watch it move as you turn the crank.
*Put the new belt on, both cam gears should have the notch pointing straight up. Crank keyway straight up. Put belt on tightly with as little slack. Have the exhaust cam a tooth to the right, because when you tension it, it moves that cam gear a tooth back. Get that pulley tight, tighten bolt, put spring on.
*Clean the crank snouth and inside of pulley good, and it will slide back on easy. Just get something short and flat, put it against it, and tap tap tap it back on. Put pulley bolt back on the same way, screwdriver in flywheel and breaker bar.
*Bottom timing cover back on, idler pulley bracket next, top timing cover. and your should pretty much be good to go.

Nice sounds easy enough i guess. Thanks alot for the info, one question tho, dont i have to unplug the distributor somewhere?

 

[sbenson619]

I can't say my small IR 3/8 impact met a crank bolt it wouldn't loosen.

For the experienced, this is a 1.5 hour job, tops.

3/8?
I had a 1/2 IR and it didnt break the bolt.. is that gun on steroids? I used a crank stopper from matco and a 1/2 breaker bar with a cheater pipe. i would replace the water pump too just because its right there and the tensioner also.

On Demand calls for 3.4 hours labor
theres a pic of the timing marks

 

[Burntz]

Nice sounds easy enough i guess. Thanks alot for the info, one question tho, dont i have to unplug the distributor somewhere?

well if you know what you're doing no, but if you want, take it out, replace that rubber seal, and when you get the cam marks straight up, the crank straight up, and the belt on and tensioned, the hold the dist cap on it so you know where the #1 spot is, then position the rotor slightly left of it, so that when you slide it in, it will slide right into the #1 spot.

then just hook a timing light up and make sure its timed correctly by moving the dist up and down

 

[cuel]

Trick for the crank bolt: Do it first. Put a breaker bar on it, so that when the motor turns, the breaker bar is wedged against the floor. Iirc, it should be pointed down and to the driver's side. get in the car, and bump the key to the start position. Might take a try or two, but will break teh bolt loose.

Do the water pump while you're there. It's not part of the t.b. system, but it's right there.

If you do take the dist. out, set the timing first, mark the dist. where the rotor is pointing, and mark the bolt and distributor together. Then when you put it back, you just line up the marks, and done. Timing light wouldn't hurt, just to be sure, but it should be real close that way.

My 1/2" IR Titanium(1000 ft. lbs. reverse, 750 fwd.) broke mine loose, no sweat. Put it back on, too...

 

[7mCooMo]

ok im going to have to do this on my next day off witch is tomorrow. :icon_bigg

time to go rent some tools.