I was wondering what you all thought about this car? I'll be doing a trade + cash on my end but anyway..
Up for sale or trade is a 1987 Toyota Supra currently at 158K miles. This car began life as an N/A Sport edition non-targa 5 speed car with the dark blue exterior and blue interior. At 134K miles or so, it was fully converted by Kyle (supraguru) and myself to a turbo car. This includes the R-154 transmission and all electronics. Basically everything is off a turbo car except it is wingless (I like it that way). The following are all the mods done to this car:
ENGINE: Fully Rebuilt 7M-GTE with ARP everything (Head Studs, Rod Bolts, Main studs), full gasket kit from SIP Racing, Titan Motorsports 2.0MM metal head gasket, Wiseco 0.020 overbore pistons, Eagle rods, ACL Bearings and a fully machine prepped head with stock valvetrain. New water pump, coolant hoses, and belts. Machining was done by Haas machine shop here in town and cost me over $1000 not including the parts...
This motor is built to handle a LOT of power, more than most 7M's can. It has 20K on this build so I know it is solid. This isn't some thrown together bologna "JDM" crap. This engine can handle power levels approaching the 4 digit level. With aftermarket valvetrain (cams, springs and maybe valves) I would be confident up to that point. As of now, I'd say comfortably 700 at the wheels it would do just fine.
ENGINE BAY: The engine bay was stripped out when the swap was done and sprayed black. I recently did the Lexus IS300 coil pack mod which uses three COP's with 3 slaves and higher coil output to better provide spark to the NGK Iridium XI plugs. This is a common good modification: http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...cs-and-writeup
I just installed brand new PTE 550cc injectors along with a Lexus V8 AFM body which raises the factory fuel cut for higher boost and fools the computer to make more power. Also I have put on a CX racing intercooler piping kit to replace the factory rotting crap and goes directly to the factory intercooler. This is a good kit and fits really well. There is a Walbro 255 fuel pump in the tank. The oiling system is completely custom. The filter is remotely mounted in the passenger fender well where the washer jug used to be (I never used it). There is also a thermostatically controlled oil cooler mounted up front. This takes oil capacity from 4.5Qts to 6.5. The A/C compressor has been removed, but the system is all still there and should be able to work with a compressor and maybe lines. The turbo is the stock Toyota CT-26 and is in good shape as far as shaft play. It does burn oil (maybe half a quart every 1K miles) but boosts hard and has never given me a single problem. I replaced the factory hard oil lines with the braided AN line kit from driftmotion. There is a simple ebay MBC on it, set currently to ~15psi in 3rd gear (the most I would run on a stock CT). All of this flows into a custom made 3" exhaust with no cat and a hooker maxflow straight through muffler. I have gotten many compliments on the way this car sounds and it is not loud or ricey. Idle is pretty damn quiet. The evap and vacuum system is completely installed and functioning properly, except for the EGR which has been deleted the proper way by removing the cooler plate from the back of the head and blocking it there. There is a new spectre intake filter from Autozone in it as well, it works and flows well.
TRANSMISSION/DRIVELINE: Almost brand new Kentucky Clutch Stage 3 clutch kit with pressure plate, 6 puck sprung disk and throw-out bearing. I put in this clutch about 1K miles ago and it is ready to go. These can usually handle quite a bit of abuse and is probably good to the mid 400's power wise. The transmission is and R-154 out of a 1989 Turbo and probably has just over 100K on it. I put redline synthetic 75W-90 gear oil in it when the build was done, and its given me no issues. It will need a rebuild before any serious power is run through it, but its been fine for me as a daily for almost 2 years now. The shifter is longer than most trucks but its clean and feels smooth. Driveshaft is the factory Toyota with a newer carrier bearing in it, I've never felt any vibrations. The rear differential is a 3.73:1 LSD from a 89+ turbo car, also with redline 75W-90. Axles are factory and in good shape.
BRAKES/SUSPENSION/WHEELS AND TIRES: The car has been lowered on Tein HR coilovers. These are stiff. Hence the Heavy Race designation. They do ride fine on a nice road, but will get a bit rough over bumpy roads. I've never really cared, they handle beautifully and its not too low, but can go lower. The brake pads and rotors all have 20K miles on them and are wearing great. All 4 calipers have been replaced in the last year. They are stock brakes, but they work well. Tires are the factory size 225/50R16 on the stock sawblades, Falken Ziex 912's with pretty good life left on them. Never had any issues with pressure leaking (except for one nail).
BODY: Car has never been wrecked. Had 4 owners, one lease, then an old lady owned it from the early 90's on. She took outstanding care of it, then sold it to the dumbass I bought it off of in Southern Indiana who blew it up in 3 months....
Car was painted black by Maaco in April of this year. I did my own prep, then they did theirs as well. It's NOT perfect. It looks solid from 5 feet or so which is all I wanted. From 10 feet it is beautiful. I replaced all the trim with the 89+ style trim which is plastic backed instead of metal so it doesn't rust away. There are rust bubbles in the rear fenderwells, I had coated them with a rust sealer so they wouldnt come back, but Maaco sanded it off
Other than that, no rust issues anywhere on the main body. Couple of little dents, but nothing bad for a 24 year old car. I have also installed smoked clear turnsignals and side marker light housings.
INTERIOR/ELECTRONICS: The interior is factory blue and I would say it is about a 7/10. There is a big rip in the dash, but you cant see it driving. The center console is going, but not a big deal. The drivers door panel has a hole in it, but the rest looks good. It is clean and nice. The factory stereo has been replaced with a pioneer premier series CD/MP3 deck with an iPod jack. I have installed 4 gauges because I needed to monitor the systems I had modified. Three are Autometer Z series (Boost/Vacuum, Oil pressure, Oil Temp) and one is an AEM UEGO wideband.
Overall the car is in great shape and perfect for a fast daily (what I had it for) or something to be built up to make into a weekend monster. With the 550cc injectors on it and a good tune, car could easily make 350-375 at the wheels (400 on high boost). With a 57trim upgraded CT26 it will do 400+ no problem. I have to drive over 30 miles daily to commute to school and work so it is not practical. I would trust this car on a long day trip no problem.
Included with the car is a big front mount intercooler and pipes to fit, spare MAF sensor, Haynes manual and a few spare parts.
What should I look for when he brings the car?
My car has been the upmost reliable car and I'm not wanting to trade for something that's going to break a lot. I understand there may be some initial changes I need to make that will increase the reliability..
I'd also like to know if I got the car where should I go from the current state its in?
Up for sale or trade is a 1987 Toyota Supra currently at 158K miles. This car began life as an N/A Sport edition non-targa 5 speed car with the dark blue exterior and blue interior. At 134K miles or so, it was fully converted by Kyle (supraguru) and myself to a turbo car. This includes the R-154 transmission and all electronics. Basically everything is off a turbo car except it is wingless (I like it that way). The following are all the mods done to this car:
ENGINE: Fully Rebuilt 7M-GTE with ARP everything (Head Studs, Rod Bolts, Main studs), full gasket kit from SIP Racing, Titan Motorsports 2.0MM metal head gasket, Wiseco 0.020 overbore pistons, Eagle rods, ACL Bearings and a fully machine prepped head with stock valvetrain. New water pump, coolant hoses, and belts. Machining was done by Haas machine shop here in town and cost me over $1000 not including the parts...
This motor is built to handle a LOT of power, more than most 7M's can. It has 20K on this build so I know it is solid. This isn't some thrown together bologna "JDM" crap. This engine can handle power levels approaching the 4 digit level. With aftermarket valvetrain (cams, springs and maybe valves) I would be confident up to that point. As of now, I'd say comfortably 700 at the wheels it would do just fine.
ENGINE BAY: The engine bay was stripped out when the swap was done and sprayed black. I recently did the Lexus IS300 coil pack mod which uses three COP's with 3 slaves and higher coil output to better provide spark to the NGK Iridium XI plugs. This is a common good modification: http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...cs-and-writeup
I just installed brand new PTE 550cc injectors along with a Lexus V8 AFM body which raises the factory fuel cut for higher boost and fools the computer to make more power. Also I have put on a CX racing intercooler piping kit to replace the factory rotting crap and goes directly to the factory intercooler. This is a good kit and fits really well. There is a Walbro 255 fuel pump in the tank. The oiling system is completely custom. The filter is remotely mounted in the passenger fender well where the washer jug used to be (I never used it). There is also a thermostatically controlled oil cooler mounted up front. This takes oil capacity from 4.5Qts to 6.5. The A/C compressor has been removed, but the system is all still there and should be able to work with a compressor and maybe lines. The turbo is the stock Toyota CT-26 and is in good shape as far as shaft play. It does burn oil (maybe half a quart every 1K miles) but boosts hard and has never given me a single problem. I replaced the factory hard oil lines with the braided AN line kit from driftmotion. There is a simple ebay MBC on it, set currently to ~15psi in 3rd gear (the most I would run on a stock CT). All of this flows into a custom made 3" exhaust with no cat and a hooker maxflow straight through muffler. I have gotten many compliments on the way this car sounds and it is not loud or ricey. Idle is pretty damn quiet. The evap and vacuum system is completely installed and functioning properly, except for the EGR which has been deleted the proper way by removing the cooler plate from the back of the head and blocking it there. There is a new spectre intake filter from Autozone in it as well, it works and flows well.
TRANSMISSION/DRIVELINE: Almost brand new Kentucky Clutch Stage 3 clutch kit with pressure plate, 6 puck sprung disk and throw-out bearing. I put in this clutch about 1K miles ago and it is ready to go. These can usually handle quite a bit of abuse and is probably good to the mid 400's power wise. The transmission is and R-154 out of a 1989 Turbo and probably has just over 100K on it. I put redline synthetic 75W-90 gear oil in it when the build was done, and its given me no issues. It will need a rebuild before any serious power is run through it, but its been fine for me as a daily for almost 2 years now. The shifter is longer than most trucks but its clean and feels smooth. Driveshaft is the factory Toyota with a newer carrier bearing in it, I've never felt any vibrations. The rear differential is a 3.73:1 LSD from a 89+ turbo car, also with redline 75W-90. Axles are factory and in good shape.
BRAKES/SUSPENSION/WHEELS AND TIRES: The car has been lowered on Tein HR coilovers. These are stiff. Hence the Heavy Race designation. They do ride fine on a nice road, but will get a bit rough over bumpy roads. I've never really cared, they handle beautifully and its not too low, but can go lower. The brake pads and rotors all have 20K miles on them and are wearing great. All 4 calipers have been replaced in the last year. They are stock brakes, but they work well. Tires are the factory size 225/50R16 on the stock sawblades, Falken Ziex 912's with pretty good life left on them. Never had any issues with pressure leaking (except for one nail).
BODY: Car has never been wrecked. Had 4 owners, one lease, then an old lady owned it from the early 90's on. She took outstanding care of it, then sold it to the dumbass I bought it off of in Southern Indiana who blew it up in 3 months....
Car was painted black by Maaco in April of this year. I did my own prep, then they did theirs as well. It's NOT perfect. It looks solid from 5 feet or so which is all I wanted. From 10 feet it is beautiful. I replaced all the trim with the 89+ style trim which is plastic backed instead of metal so it doesn't rust away. There are rust bubbles in the rear fenderwells, I had coated them with a rust sealer so they wouldnt come back, but Maaco sanded it off
Other than that, no rust issues anywhere on the main body. Couple of little dents, but nothing bad for a 24 year old car. I have also installed smoked clear turnsignals and side marker light housings.
INTERIOR/ELECTRONICS: The interior is factory blue and I would say it is about a 7/10. There is a big rip in the dash, but you cant see it driving. The center console is going, but not a big deal. The drivers door panel has a hole in it, but the rest looks good. It is clean and nice. The factory stereo has been replaced with a pioneer premier series CD/MP3 deck with an iPod jack. I have installed 4 gauges because I needed to monitor the systems I had modified. Three are Autometer Z series (Boost/Vacuum, Oil pressure, Oil Temp) and one is an AEM UEGO wideband.
Overall the car is in great shape and perfect for a fast daily (what I had it for) or something to be built up to make into a weekend monster. With the 550cc injectors on it and a good tune, car could easily make 350-375 at the wheels (400 on high boost). With a 57trim upgraded CT26 it will do 400+ no problem. I have to drive over 30 miles daily to commute to school and work so it is not practical. I would trust this car on a long day trip no problem.
Included with the car is a big front mount intercooler and pipes to fit, spare MAF sensor, Haynes manual and a few spare parts.
What should I look for when he brings the car?
My car has been the upmost reliable car and I'm not wanting to trade for something that's going to break a lot. I understand there may be some initial changes I need to make that will increase the reliability..
I'd also like to know if I got the car where should I go from the current state its in?
