Things to change while the motor is OUT of the car.

desertguy

New Member
Dec 20, 2009
11
0
0
Vegas
Alright so I'm swapping out my '91 Turbo R154's bottom end with a spun bearing with a known working JDM bottom end (6m crank) which I am going to freshen up. I want to take this motor out once, do crap right, put it back in and not have to worry about the hard to get to stuff for a while if possible.

Things I plan on changing:

- Decent quality gasket kit, and a metal Cometic exhaust gasket.
- Rings, pistons and a hone
- Bottom end bearings (mains, rods and thrust) - possibly get the crank polished
- ARP head studs, main studs and rod bolts (are main studs necessary or would new main bolts work ok? I plan on no more than 400whp in the future)
- Get the head decked and MLS head gasket - still deciding which one will be the easiest/most forgiving to use
- Fuel filter
- I hear theres a heater hose or some kind of behind the block thats hard to get to? Any hoses or other gaskets in specific I should change while its out?

Probably left a few things out but this is just a rough list. Clutch is new and trans is in good shape.. Anything else I outta think about changing out while the motor will be out? Thanks.
 

Compton74

New Member
Oct 8, 2008
355
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0
Long Beach
Theres 3 heater hoses you NEED to change. 2 are the exact same hose, they are on the exhaust side of the motor one (Part number is 16282) all the way in front under the power steering resovoir, and the other (Part number 16283) all the way in the back. The hoses are easy to spot they are both 90 degree elbows. The third hose (part number 847245A) goes from the very back of the head up to the heater matrix, this hose MUST be changed its a pain in the ass to do it with the engine in the car. Get a new thermostat, upper and lower radiator hoses, plugs and wires whichever brand you prefer i prefer ngks. If i think of anything else ill edit it in. And your fuel filter is nowhere near the motor it is about the rear axle, right below the gas tank. Also change the washers on your injectors its cheap and a simple way to make sure you don't have to rip the injectors off again.
 
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desertguy

New Member
Dec 20, 2009
11
0
0
Vegas
Thanks Compton74, exactly what I was looking for. I think 847245A was what I was thinking about. Sure about the fuel filter? Had a MK2 a while ago and it was in the lower engine bay, my Avalon had it in the engine bay too, on the opposite side though. I'll take your word for it.. probably won't change it out yet if it's not causing trouble lol. Cant think of anything else.. I'll probably find some other stuff once I pull the motor.
 

Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
Mar 30, 2005
1,845
24
38
Victoria, BC, Canada
fuel filter is by the diff, huge pain in the ass to change.

while the engine is out, CLEAN THE ENGINE BAY.

also, make sure to put in a new rear main seal, it should come with your gasket set.
 

Compton74

New Member
Oct 8, 2008
355
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Long Beach
many people say there is no need to change the fuel filter (http://www.supramania.com/forums/content.php?121-The-great-fuel-filter-myth) but i was always told something that is meant to fliter gets dirty, so i change it. Directions for changing are here http://www.mkiiisupra.net/bbs/showthread.php?t=29222 But it does make sense toyota is smart and put the fuel filter in a spot thats a pain to get to, maybe suggesting not to change it, if thats there explination why is the oil filter such a pain in the ass to change LOL.:bigthumb:
CHANGE IT then you never have to worry about it again
 

gottadiesel

Flyin Low
Feb 16, 2009
459
0
0
Vancouver, Washington
Make sure that you get at minimum the following gaskets from Toyota (IMO of course) -
EGR Cooler Plate
Turbo flange to EM
EM Gasket
Front, Rear and Cam Seals
Don't go cheap on Valve Stem Seals

Make sure you do not use a gasket on the oil pan even if one comes in the kit, use the Toyota Seal Packing Per TRSM

If there is a groove in your crank where your Rear Main seals, may want to go the route of taking some material off of the retainer, IJ has a proven method that worked for me also, read through this thread for the details...

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?122343-Fresh-build-oil-seepage-from-Rear-Main

That is all that comes to mind off the top of my head... I will had more if I think of anything else... Good Luck
 

SideWinderGX

Member
Aug 8, 2007
733
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16
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Syracuse, New York, United States
Change all your coolant hoses with new ones, either OEM, Gates brand or silicone.
Check over the wiring harness, especially the CPS and knock sensor wires. Rewire if necessary. Please don't splice into it, de-pin the connectors, source new pins (search and then ask) and run a new length of wire.
Check the exhaust manifold threads to see if they are stripped: if they are, get the helicoil kit. Much easier to do while it is out of the car than in it, although it is possible.
 

gottadiesel

Flyin Low
Feb 16, 2009
459
0
0
Vancouver, Washington
By the way, in regards to coolant hoses, the smaller ones that route through the throttle body and ISC valve I had to buy from Toyota. If you do not have a dealer that offers decent pricing, I used this site to buy any OEM items I needed.

http://www.toyotapartszone.com/

On their site you can just type in your VIN# and then it lists by category everything that is available.

A couple of other items that come to mind -

I would replace exhaust manifold, turbo flange (both at EM and at elbow) with new locking nuts from Toyota...

IMO if you have any possible issues with your EM female threads being stripped, while the head is at machine shop, have them to the new inserts (can't remember what it is called at the moment of course) but IMO is a much better fix than helicoils...

Another step that I took (off topic a little since it has little to do with "while your motor is out" oh well) as starting with a fresh motor, I did not want any old corrosion influencing it... so not only did I replace every piece of radiator hose, soaked all bypass lines etc in Super-clean, I also replaced radiator and heater core at the same time... just a thought ( In know the heater core is not easy to get to)

If you have thoughts of doing a filter relocation (which I recommend, along with going to a thermostat controlled oil cooling system with a new oil cooler) anyway put all of those things on the block and just have your oil lines tied up while putting motor back in, much easier to get to while on the stand.