The quest for tight steering...

[destrux]

I need a steering rack, mine has wear in the center of the rack and the car wanders like a drunk after last call. The only concern I have is, when the average aftermarket company rebuilds a rack, do they correct on-center wear in the rack and pinion gears? I'm guessing, probably not, because the average parts buyers just wants a rack that works and doesn't leak (the two main reasons people replace them).

I know a few people here have installed reman racks... did it make the steering tighter? or was it worse or the same as the old worn out rack? any certain brand seem to be better than others?

I also just noticed that the dealer still lists that the rack is available, for ~$465. Alot more than a reman rack... but that's for a new rack I'm assuming, and it seems to come with the inner tie rods just the same as a reman unit. Maybe a new rack would be worth the extra $300.

 

[toyolla86]

my car does the same thing. it will pull the right or left as if the toe is way out of alignment. how much have you found reman racks for.

 

[hvyman]

IS your toe in spec? Generally wander is because of incorrect toe.

 

[destrux]

I tried a few different toe settings, but currently it's at 0.05 degrees total toe-in. I did the alignment on a john beam 2 camera system at work.

I checked everything else: suspension joints, bushings, rod ends, steering column, shaft joints... several times. I was really hoping it was something cheaper.

The rack fails the test in the TSRM, I have about 1.5" of free play in the wheel.

I was looking on rockauto and napa... reman racks are about $150 without the core.

I looked around on google and found alot of people saying they replaced their rack (all different kinds of cars) and the reman rack had play in it.

 

[bluepearl]

I don't have my TSRM handy. Isnt there a rack pre-load adjustment?

 

[destrux]

Yeah, there is, I tried it. The problem is there's more slop in the middle where the rack spends most of it's time. So when you adjust it so that part is properly adjusted the steering binds when you turn the wheel more than about 1/4 turn off center.

I don't know why the rack has so much wear, the car only has 97K on it. My mazda has 90K and the steering feels like new.

 

[toyolla86]

So I wonder what the fix is. And if we can do it ourselves. What's the point of a reman rack if it doesn't fix the problem.
Does anybody know what company is rebuilding them. Maybe we can contact them and have one or two done right

 

[digihonk82]

Fact that you have to take the rack and pinion out of the housing to replace ALL of the seals, assuming they do that, forces me to hope they WOULD replace a worn out rack and or pinion if that was the case. BTW my remanned rack should be here tomorrow. It's a Duralast from Autozone and I paid $280 after core rebate...not terrible, Right?

 

[mkiiichip]

I bet your inner tie rods have play. Remove the boots and have someone move the wheel. 10 to 1 youll see some play on a 100k car.

 

[Poodles]

IJ had this issue as well on his car. Had to replace the housing with a lower milage one.

 

[destrux]

Tie rods are all good, I even checked them with the shocks out so I could move them up and down while I checked for play.

Does anyone know if the rack that toyota sells is definitely brand new, or is that one rebuilt too?

Edit: http://www.toyotapartsandservice.com/pub/pdf/ProductCategories/REMAN_Steering-Racks.pdf

It's reman too.... damn.

See, the thing is, toyota lists a spec of 1.18" maximum steering wheel play. If a reman company rebuilds a rack and it's within that spec, I'm betting they don't do anything to make it better. If it's worse.. they probably use that rack for parts to rebuild other ones rather than invest in an expensive gear set in a part that retails for less than $200 (it's possible the toyota brand reman is better, since it cost more than $400, but I doubt it). I install reman parts everyday, and I see some of the crap they overlook just to get a part "good enough" to sell. If they don't bother to machine the pitting away on the back of a brake caliper so that the crush washer will seal... they probably don't care if a rack works like new, just so it works good enough that it doesn't get returned immediately.

 

[destrux]

Ugh, now I'm back to considering the mustang (or some other rack) swap.

 

[hvyman]

Call the reman company and get all the parts yourself and rebuild it?

 

[destrux]

I don't think the actual gears that would need to be replaced are even made by anyone anymore. Other than finding a mint original rack I don't think it's possible to have "like new" steering with an OEM type rack. Maybe I'm being too picky, but shitty steering just ruins a car for me.

I'm going to start researching what I'd need to do to put an aftermarket racing type rack in the car (wilwood pinto rack looks promising). I don't see another satisfactory solution, unless I happen across a really low mileage original rack, which is unlikely.

 

[spiller]

Sloppy steering is something that really bothers me about my Supra too. particularly because I take the car to the track. My steering rack was rebuilt recently (under previous owner) and the PS feels extremely light at low speeds (not sure if its PPS or not) but the steering response is shocking (terrible). I have to jerk the wheel quite a lot to get the car to change direction significantly. Its "not too bad" at the race track as most road courses dont have extremely tight/sharp corners but it means the steering lacks feel in general. I like a car with sharp steering response (i appreciate Mk3s are a heavy car but it should be this bad).

I was hoping that it was the inner tie rods that were worn (i did outer tie rods, and all front suspension bishes 3K miles ago) so that it will be an easy fix. What is the best way for one to check for wear in the inner tie-rods? Preferably without removing the outer-tie rods if possible. How is steering free-play measured?

Also, is wear within the steering coloum uni joint something that could contribute to ordinary steering response?

 

[IJ.]

The Tube gets a wear groove from the Middle Piston Teflon and no amount of seals/gears is going to correct it, the Tube is available from Toyota but it's one of the few cases where Sticker shock stopped me replacing it.

 

[spiller]

knowing toyota Aus, over 1K im guessing...

 

[IJ.]

knowing toyota Aus, over 1K im guessing...

<nodding> FFS it's a steel tube

 

[mecevans]

I paid $160 at napa for my rack. Have you checked your brakes, ball joints, bushings,wheel bearing etc? Try rotating the tires.

 

[destrux]

I don't track my car (I wish I did), but dodging potholes is a sport around here.

To check the inner tie rods you should leave the car on the ground and have a helper wiggle the steering wheel a quarter turn side to side with the engine running. You can see extreme movement, but if you carefully put your hand on the tie rod dust boots and pinch it to feel the tie rod socket inside, you'll also be able to feel it. Just be very careful around moving engine and steering parts.

Yes, the steering column u-joints and the slip joints have to be tight (mine are). The easiest way to check them is to put a clamp (vice grips) on the bottom of the lower u-joint at the steering rack and tie it so that it's locked from moving. Then you can feel only the movement in the steering shaft/column to see if there is any.

IJ - I should be able to check that movement by pulling up and down on the rack with the steering at full right side lock, correct? Shouldn't it also make a knocking noise? I'll check this on the car once a lift is open later on.