Shot a Sig250 in 9mm today. I have to reiterate, I really dislike DAO, especially with no safety. Trigger pull is always heavier, and a mile long.
The (old) Official Gun Thread.
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On the 16 of this month I pick up a CETME from Century Arms. I know all about their drunken monkey build jobs. Fortunately the rifle I purchased was not one of them. I used to have a bubba'd up post ban SKS with the TAPCO tactical stock that I did not enjoy shooting that much compared to the pre-ban Norinco and Yugo SKS I have. I went down to sell the Bubba but saw a CETME .308 sitting off to the side on the gun rack in the pawn shop. Well I know the owner and worked on a few of his cars. You know when you pick up a rifle and put it to your shoulder and it feels "right". I had to have it so I trade in the SKS and 200 bucks and walked out with it. Of course I disassembled it checking every inch of the weapon making sure everything good. So Saturday my trigger finger just itched like crazy because I could not get to the rifle range. But Sunday my friend and I went. With a SKS hearing protection is optional, NOT WITH A .308!! First shot, instant deafness. I could not hear for about 2 minutes as my ears rang. After putting in my ear plugs and firing off a magazine I was surprised at how little recoil the rifle had. It was equal to my SKS. I enjoyed the CETME and think I found my new shooter. It was pretty accurate considering some of the horror stories I have heard about Century Arms. Here is a pic of my current inventory.
A question. How come if you buy over a hundred rounds the cashier looks at you like you are some kind of gun nut about to go on a killing rampage?
A question. How come if you buy over a hundred rounds the cashier looks at you like you are some kind of gun nut about to go on a killing rampage?
Is the key to beginning pistol accuracy dry firing (with snap caps)? I keep reading this on the internet and didn't know how people here start.
SC, medic, others, what have you guys done other than hours at the range? recommended drills?
SC, medic, others, what have you guys done other than hours at the range? recommended drills?
I practice shooting a 3" circle. Start at 15' - when you can put all the bullets in a magazine inside the circle at that range, move the target to 20'. Repeat as necessary to get the range out to 35' - 40'.
Practice shooting 2 shot drills - one at chest center mass, one right between the eyes. Especially important for a double action gun (like a Sig or 1911) - the 1st shot is double action (hammer down), the second is single action (hammer cocked). The trigger pull is different for the 1st shot vs the 2nd shot. Each drill should be done in the double/single action sequence. Do it in less than 3 sec from a rest position - even better is from a holster if the range allows it..
Practice shooting with your weak side arm, one handed around a barrier. This keeps your body concealed/protected from a threat.
Practice shooting 2 shot drills - one at chest center mass, one right between the eyes. Especially important for a double action gun (like a Sig or 1911) - the 1st shot is double action (hammer down), the second is single action (hammer cocked). The trigger pull is different for the 1st shot vs the 2nd shot. Each drill should be done in the double/single action sequence. Do it in less than 3 sec from a rest position - even better is from a holster if the range allows it..
Practice shooting with your weak side arm, one handed around a barrier. This keeps your body concealed/protected from a threat.
Clip;1556500 said:
Snap caps really aren't needed, people will argue this all day but unless you're shooting a rimfire gun it shouldn't matter whether you have snap caps or not when dry firing.
Dry firing helps, but it isn't a great tool. Kind of like playing Gran Turismo and thinking it will apply verbatim to real driving. The only real use to dry firing is for making sure you're not flinching when you pull the trigger, however even this doesn't help that much since you're reaction to recoil is what causes the flinch. Just do it enough to the point that you aren't moving the gun at all when you pull the trigger.
One great use for snap caps is to have a friend slip one into your next live mag, if you have a flinch it will be very obvious when you try to shoot the snap cap that's in the mag.
If you're just starting, you should just focus on accuracy. I tell my friends who have never shot before how to start is to hold the gun lightly and let it recoil completely so that you don't jerk the gun at all, if your sights are correct, you should be able to hit what you're aiming at. As you get more comfortable, start holding the gun a little firmer but make sure you don't start jerking the gun, as you hold the gun firmer you can reset your aim and get followup shots faster. Once you're comfortable shooting the gun then start looking into doing drills and double tap excersise, if you're serious in carrying the gun, make sure you practice the same way that you would expect to have the gun while carrying, in your case, first round double action.
A good .22 pistol is also another good tool for basic training since you'll get a lot more .22 ammo for the price of one 50 round box of centerfire ammo.
The primary reason I suggest dry firing (snap caps or not) is to train your body into the motion of draw and shoot. Just like shifting, after a while you don't really think about it. The human body learns repetitive motion quite well.
I just read a tag that is stuck to a gun "cable lock".
"Do not use on loaded firearms"
I don't know exactly how you COULD use this on a loaded gun if this is run from the ejection port through the feed area, OR the bolt area, but alright..
"Read owner safety manual carefully"
Standard lawyer appeasement.
"Store ammunition and firearms in separate locations"
Fuck this lock.
"Do not use on loaded firearms"
I don't know exactly how you COULD use this on a loaded gun if this is run from the ejection port through the feed area, OR the bolt area, but alright..
"Read owner safety manual carefully"
Standard lawyer appeasement.
"Store ammunition and firearms in separate locations"
Fuck this lock.
drunk_medic;1566320 said:
You could have a round in the chamber and use the lock. Still I agree.
drunk_medic;1566320 said:
For long term storage, I do this. The sniper rifles & ammo are separate.
However for the home/personal defense weapons? The more accurate statement would be "ammunition stored IN firearm".
I recently bought a new upper with the picatanny rail. It is the midlength gas instead of carbine length. I plan on getting the EOTech
The original is an A2 sights, right down to the 8/3 knob. I like it.
The original is an A2 sights, right down to the 8/3 knob. I like it.
I have a random question concerning my ar15(.223) build.
I'm looking to complete the lower and want to go with a magpul 6 position MOE stock and I am having a tuff time deciding on the buffer tube assemble. I see they vary pretty greatly in price, from what I can see they go from $30 - $100+ for different brands with all the same function.
Will different brands make that big of a difference? I mean it's just a tube, spring and buffer. I don't want to skimp out anywhere but want to know if spending the money there is justified? I've seen places selling a complete kit for the same price as just the tube alone. What could be so special about the tube to make it so much $?
I don't want to over think this, just it's my first build and want it done right and also not waste money on something that I don't need necessarily.
I'm looking to complete the lower and want to go with a magpul 6 position MOE stock and I am having a tuff time deciding on the buffer tube assemble. I see they vary pretty greatly in price, from what I can see they go from $30 - $100+ for different brands with all the same function.
Will different brands make that big of a difference? I mean it's just a tube, spring and buffer. I don't want to skimp out anywhere but want to know if spending the money there is justified? I've seen places selling a complete kit for the same price as just the tube alone. What could be so special about the tube to make it so much $?
I don't want to over think this, just it's my first build and want it done right and also not waste money on something that I don't need necessarily.
The tubes are pretty much the same, but having said that, I prefer to use the Vltor tubes - the threads are always perfect. Use a castle type nut to secure and you will need the correct tool to do so. Make sure you get the correct spec tube for the MOE stock - there are 2 versions of the MOE - military and civilian. The difference is in the diameter of the buffer tube and they do not interchange. Once you figure out which MOE you have, buy the tube. American Spirit Arms in Scottsdale has the tubes at a decent price or you can order here:
http://www.operationparts.com/default.asp
I recommend you get a H or H2 heavy buffer for a carbine.
BTW - a 6 position tube is way over kill - a 5 position tube is easier to find and will serve your needs well.
http://www.operationparts.com/default.asp
I recommend you get a H or H2 heavy buffer for a carbine.
BTW - a 6 position tube is way over kill - a 5 position tube is easier to find and will serve your needs well.
jdub;1570133 said:
I should have added I have a mil spec receiver and am basing everything off it being mil spec, nothing commercial.
Also 6 position is just what I have seen I didn't actually seek that out just seemed more common to me than the 4 or 5 position ones. I'm not set on any specific position number, as you said 6 is over kill. I'm also slowly building my gun smithing tools and will be adding an ar15 wrench when I go to build the lower that will be used for the castle nut.
Any opinion on spikes tactical? I've herd a lot of good things about the company and the buffer has been praised also. It is a step up from the h2 buffer (4.3 ounces compared to the 4.1 ounce h2).
Not to ignore the Vltor/h2 recommendation just comparing my options/prices .
The term "mil spec" is a misnomer - in the AR-15 world the receivers vary a bit. My recommendation is to match the upper to the lower (same brand) if at all possible. That said, you will find Colt, Noveske & FN the most consistent tolerance wise to the M-16. The American Spirit Arms receivers/uppers are identical to a Colt...I have measured/compared them personally. I do hear good things about Spike Tactical...LaRue is another very good manufacturer. However, I have not used either. The "billet" receivers/uppers are a lot of hype...they are not "stronger" and are not worth the extra $$$. (trust me, I've tried these) The good thing about AR-15's is just about every lower/upper out there (excluding billet) will fit - might be loose, but they will fit. You can't say that about the AR-10 type .308 rifle...there are 4 different patterns that I know of and none of them are compatible.
What you said about the Spike's buffer is true though, heavy buffer wise, you are not going to beat these:
http://heavybuffers.com/ar15carbine.html
Very consistent cyclic rate with the 6.5 oz and will allow perfect function with Mk 262 ammo in a 1-7 or 1-8 twist barrel. The 8 oz buffer is for use full auto or with a suppressor - not really necessary for a civilian carbine.
What you said about the Spike's buffer is true though, heavy buffer wise, you are not going to beat these:
http://heavybuffers.com/ar15carbine.html
Very consistent cyclic rate with the 6.5 oz and will allow perfect function with Mk 262 ammo in a 1-7 or 1-8 twist barrel. The 8 oz buffer is for use full auto or with a suppressor - not really necessary for a civilian carbine.
jdub;1570205 said:
I have a yankee hill machine lower and was planning to go with them for my upper just to keep things as consistent as possible. I haven't even begun to decide what barrel to go with yet ha. Most likely 16" but beyond that I haven't decided. I might just go with a YHM complete upper and pick from their pre-set options to keep it simple rather than piecing it together.
Any good things to say about YHM? It's too late as it is what I already have but I'm curious to hear what you think about them as a brand in general.
...I would love a silenced or full auto ha.
I have used YHM forestocks - the quality is excellent. I have not used their lowers/uppers, same for Lewis machine. I also have heard no complains about them either...I would match the upper to the lower.
I would recommend a 16" barrel if you are building a carbine (sounds like you are), you are not going to beat these:
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=170457946
The good thing the price is excellent too. Lothar Walther is a German company, their stainless steel is superb....this barrel is as good or better than a Noveske at far less $$$: http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?cat=91
These are chambered in 5.56 and will shoot .223 no problem...the 1-8 twist is superior to 1-9 and 1-7 IMO. The add offers coatings, if you chose to do that, use CeraKote...it is the best there is. All you have to do to this barrel though is tape the gas port, receiver extension, and muzzle threads then have it blasted with a 100-120 grit aluminum oxide. You will get a flat gray finish and since it's stainless, it will not rust...Noveske does the same thing to their barrels.
FYI - I have several Lothar Walther barrels - they are the most accurate I have ever used. Mine were custom made though, medium profile (no M-203 cuts), Wylde chamber with matched bolt, and 1-8 polyangle rifling...takes about 6 weeks to get a custom barrel. I currently have some AR-10 barrels being made for some precision rifles based on the M110 (Armalite pattern) I'm building.
I'm building up capability to plate steel with Nickel Boron Nitrite - I can already do smaller parts like this:
This is an AR-10 bolt carrier group I coated - almost as hard as chrome with 25% of the friction. You can just about run the weapon dry (no oil) with this stuff
Also acquiring the equipment to coat CeraKoke too.
I would recommend a 16" barrel if you are building a carbine (sounds like you are), you are not going to beat these:
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=170457946
The good thing the price is excellent too. Lothar Walther is a German company, their stainless steel is superb....this barrel is as good or better than a Noveske at far less $$$: http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?cat=91
These are chambered in 5.56 and will shoot .223 no problem...the 1-8 twist is superior to 1-9 and 1-7 IMO. The add offers coatings, if you chose to do that, use CeraKote...it is the best there is. All you have to do to this barrel though is tape the gas port, receiver extension, and muzzle threads then have it blasted with a 100-120 grit aluminum oxide. You will get a flat gray finish and since it's stainless, it will not rust...Noveske does the same thing to their barrels.
FYI - I have several Lothar Walther barrels - they are the most accurate I have ever used. Mine were custom made though, medium profile (no M-203 cuts), Wylde chamber with matched bolt, and 1-8 polyangle rifling...takes about 6 weeks to get a custom barrel. I currently have some AR-10 barrels being made for some precision rifles based on the M110 (Armalite pattern) I'm building.
I'm building up capability to plate steel with Nickel Boron Nitrite - I can already do smaller parts like this:
This is an AR-10 bolt carrier group I coated - almost as hard as chrome with 25% of the friction. You can just about run the weapon dry (no oil) with this stuff
Also acquiring the equipment to coat CeraKoke too.
jdub;1570235 said:I have used YHM fore stocks - the quality is excellent. I have not used their lowers/uppers, same for Lewis machine. I also have heard no complains about them either...I would match the upper to the lower.
I would recommend a 16" barrel if you are building a carbine (sounds like you are), you are not going to beat these:
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=170457946
The good thing the price is excellent too. Lothar Walther is a German company, their stainless steel is superb....this barrel is as good or better than a Noveske at far less $$$: http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?cat=91
These are chambered in 5.56 and will shoot .223 no problem...the 1-8 twist is superior to 1-9 and 1-7 IMO. The add offers coatings, if you chose to do that, use CeraKote...it is the best there is. All you have to do to this barrel though is tape the gas port, receiver extension, and muzzle threads then have it blasted with a 100-120 grit aluminum oxide. You will get a flat gray finish and since it's stainless, it will not rust...Noveske does the same thing to their barrels.
FYI - I have several Lothar Walther barrels - they are the most accurate I have ever used. Mine were custom made though, medium profile (no M-203 cuts), Wylde chamber with matched bolt, and 1-8 polyangle rifling...takes about 6 weeks to get a custom barrel. I currently have some AR-10 barrels being made for some precision rifles based on the M110 (Armalite pattern) I'm building.
I'm building up capability to plate steel with Nickel Boron Nitrite - I can already do smaller parts like this:
This is an AR-10 bolt carrier group I coated - almost as hard as chrome with 25% of the friction. You can just about run the weapon dry (no oil) with this stuff
Also acquiring the equipment to coat CeraKoke too.
Cool, thanks for all the info. I think I'll finally have my lower finished and I might just have a barrel ready for when I start my upper build as well. I just don't want to get to far ahead of my self on the build though, I just want to get the lower complete then move forward($$$).
I haven't been on gunbroker since election time when Pmags were worth more than their weight in gold...
That GunBroker ad has been running for some time now. If you do decide to build an upper, the barrel nut has a torque spec
BTW - LaRue Tactical barrels are made by Lothar Walther.
BTW - LaRue Tactical barrels are made by Lothar Walther.
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