87mk111;1690203 said:
hmm, guess I'm gonna have to dig and see if I can buy this, I really hate running something that is known that it might break.
The (old) Official Gun Thread.
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hmm, guess I'm gonna have to dig and see if I can buy this, I really hate running something that is known that it might break.
Mario, run it until it breaks man. If you send it back to Umarex/Walther/S&W they'll laugh at you. Trust me. Just keep an eye on it when you clean.
MDCmotorsports;1690685 said:
Aight, will do. It just seems like that is kinda dangerous to be putting something on a carry weapon.
SupraMario;1690830 said:
The odds of that part breaking are actually somewhat slim unless you are pounding a lot of rounds through it. It's a weakness in the design, not an outright flaw.
Well here it is. One rnd has gone through it. I do have to say it feels very good in my hand. Hopefully that wont change when firing it.
Here's something I've been working on...decided to "freshen up" my 10+ year old PT99 by getting some new Hogue grips and having JDub coat the slide...
Before:
After:
John does some seriously awesome work and I'll be using his services again in the future I'm sure! The contrast isn't as much as I thought it was going to be and is hard to see in the pics, but the slide is now a darker gray. I might see if I can use a lighter color for more contrast. I think it would come out looking really good.
Before:
After:
John does some seriously awesome work and I'll be using his services again in the future I'm sure! The contrast isn't as much as I thought it was going to be and is hard to see in the pics, but the slide is now a darker gray. I might see if I can use a lighter color for more contrast. I think it would come out looking really good.
My Glock 20 slide Cerakoted in Tungsten Grey - barrel/extractor is Black. The PT99 slide above is Sniper Grey - I think it looks good in that color 
Kinda needed it (below) - it's a 20 yr old weapon (one of the 1st Glock 20's to come out) - got it about a month before I was deployed to Desert Storm. Replaced the old night sights with Trijicon yellow rear, green front while I was at it.
Kinda needed it (below) - it's a 20 yr old weapon (one of the 1st Glock 20's to come out) - got it about a month before I was deployed to Desert Storm. Replaced the old night sights with Trijicon yellow rear, green front while I was at it.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Nice looking weapons there!
I just did some custom coatings work on my 1022, and need to get some photos up. (Moly coated the inside of the receiver, bolt and some other moving parts like the firing pin, full polish trigger job on the stock stuff, and a few mods to make it all work better.)
Trigger is about 2.5lbs, very crisp break, and overtravel is gone. Pre-travel is also greatly improved.
I'm curious to see how the moly coating holds up in a weapon, and if I like it, I might start coating the inside/moving parts of various weapons to improve wear resistance, and reduce the need for sticky lubricants that attract carbon residue and dirt.
I just did some custom coatings work on my 1022, and need to get some photos up. (Moly coated the inside of the receiver, bolt and some other moving parts like the firing pin, full polish trigger job on the stock stuff, and a few mods to make it all work better.)
Trigger is about 2.5lbs, very crisp break, and overtravel is gone. Pre-travel is also greatly improved.
I'm curious to see how the moly coating holds up in a weapon, and if I like it, I might start coating the inside/moving parts of various weapons to improve wear resistance, and reduce the need for sticky lubricants that attract carbon residue and dirt.
Here's a Ruger MkII that I built for my son's Christmas present:
I acquired a beat up frame, Cerakoted it in the same Tungsten Grey and tuned the trigger to a crisp 4 lb pull. The upper is a Tactical Solutions Pac-Lite w/ threaded muzzle, hard anodized black from the factory. The bolt, sear and hammer is plated with nickel-boron nitrite...that is the ultimate in slick, non-stick. This little baby is a tack driver
Info on the Pac-Lite:
http://www.tacticalsol.com/products/22-lr-conversions?page=shop.browse&category_id=14
I acquired a beat up frame, Cerakoted it in the same Tungsten Grey and tuned the trigger to a crisp 4 lb pull. The upper is a Tactical Solutions Pac-Lite w/ threaded muzzle, hard anodized black from the factory. The bolt, sear and hammer is plated with nickel-boron nitrite...that is the ultimate in slick, non-stick. This little baby is a tack driver
Info on the Pac-Lite:
http://www.tacticalsol.com/products/22-lr-conversions?page=shop.browse&category_id=14
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
TS has some awesome ideas/products, and that frame turned out very nice! Who does your plating work?
I can get copper, nickel and chrome plating done at a bumper shop, but that nickel/boron nitrite sounds awesome.
One of these days, I'd love to get a TS full 16" bull barrel looking suppressed setup. (Fits into a standard Hogue overmolded stock, so you have a rifle that looks like any other bull barrel, but it's very quiet and accurate.) With the right round, the loudest part is the bolt. (60gr subsonic, so for best accuracy, you really need to spin it faster than most .22LR barrels are designed for.)
I can get copper, nickel and chrome plating done at a bumper shop, but that nickel/boron nitrite sounds awesome.
One of these days, I'd love to get a TS full 16" bull barrel looking suppressed setup. (Fits into a standard Hogue overmolded stock, so you have a rifle that looks like any other bull barrel, but it's very quiet and accurate.
) With the right round, the loudest part is the bolt. (60gr subsonic, so for best accuracy, you really need to spin it faster than most .22LR barrels are designed for.)
Adjuster;1691705 said:TS has some awesome ideas/products, and that frame turned out very nice! Who does your plating work?
I can get copper, nickel and chrome plating done at a bumper shop, but that nickel/boron nitrite sounds awesome.
One of these days, I'd love to get a TS full 16" bull barrel looking suppressed setup. (Fits into a standard Hogue overmolded stock, so you have a rifle that looks like any other bull barrel, but it's very quiet and accurate.
I've acquired the ability do plate nickel-boron nitrite myself. It involves heating a chemical bath to 180 deg F and keeping the boron particles stirred with a pump - it plates on at 0.0002" per 20 min. It only plates to steel and the surface has to be squeaky clean - I use a fine glass bead blast to get the surface where it needs to be.
Here's a friends Ruger MkII completely coated in it at a 0.001" thickness:
I replaced his std barrel with a short, factory bull barrel and did the same trigger work. The bolt, hammer, and sear were also plated - it came out pretty nice, but not my tastes really. It was also expensive to do
A company called Fail Zero does this to an AR bolt carrier group and hammer for $200. They no longer accept individual parts, but will see you theirs for $250:
http://www.failzero.com/buynow.html?page=shop.browse&category_id=1
I found the 40 gr subsonic works great on a std twist .22 LR barrel - it very adequate at the range a .22 LR is capable of. You're correct, the loudest part is the 10-22 bolt. I had the opportunity to fire a full auto, suppressed 10-22 that ran at 1300 rpm - it sounded like a sewing machine. The 30 rnd magazine was empty before the 1st casing hit the ground
Man, I was all set ready to set up purchases for some new Taurus autos and it looks like you not only can't order them with night sights, but the aftermarket doesn't support the new Mil Pro pistols, either. I'm really not a fan of the the Straight-8 sights and it doesn't look like you can replace them with anything other than Williams Firesights. I don't have any experience with those, so I'm not sure how well they really work.
Now I'm back to looking at Sig stuff. I researched on a couple of forums for Taurus, but does anyone know of night sights for the Mil Pro pistols with dovetail fronts?
Now I'm back to looking at Sig stuff. I researched on a couple of forums for Taurus, but does anyone know of night sights for the Mil Pro pistols with dovetail fronts?
Out of the collection, here's my two current favorites:
The SKS.
And the Beretta M92D Centurion.
Curiosity, anyone have any first hand experience modifying the Trigger on the Beretta? Or have a good information source? I haven't been able to find anything, and to get my index set right, my entire grip gets slightly thrown off. Just eyeballing it with the trigger fully depressed tells me I should have room for an extra one or two MM's....
The SKS.
And the Beretta M92D Centurion.
Curiosity, anyone have any first hand experience modifying the Trigger on the Beretta? Or have a good information source? I haven't been able to find anything, and to get my index set right, my entire grip gets slightly thrown off. Just eyeballing it with the trigger fully depressed tells me I should have room for an extra one or two MM's....
I rented a Glock 17 and it's not my preference. I have nothing against Glock, I like how they look and I liked the trigger feel, but with my hand and grip didn't work with the gun. When fired, part of the weapon would rub skin off my shooting hand thumb. Not good. I tried adjusting my grip to no avail.
Sigs and Taurus autos I don't have that problem. So, nothing against Glock, they just don't work for me. That kinda stinks since I really wanted to try one of the "C" models. It goes back to Mike's advice of getting what works for you.
Sigs and Taurus autos I don't have that problem. So, nothing against Glock, they just don't work for me. That kinda stinks since I really wanted to try one of the "C" models. It goes back to Mike's advice of getting what works for you.
Glocks aren't fat hand friendly, they'll give you slide bite. Though they have adressed the issue: http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2011/02/24/glock-beavertail-grip/
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Have you tried the M&P9?
I have large hands, and found that with the Crimson Trace grip, that I really liked the ergonomics of this pistol.
Now that they have thumb safety's on this gun available, I'd go that route, and cut the right side one off, and still use the CTC grip. (I like, and am used to a thumb safety.)
I have done the full trigger job on my M&P9, and it's about 4lbs, very smooth with very little reset distance, and nearly zero pre-travel. (The trigger safety is defeated by having this little pre-travel, but I can pull the pin that does that mod, and have full trigger movement, and safety while it's used for Concealed Carry.)
The rumor is that a longer trigger bar, and/or extended sear is going to be ready to go here soon, so it will allow users to customize the action even more.
There are a few sight options for this pistol too. (Not as many as the Glock's, but every day they make more aftermarket stuff for the M&P's.)
I have large hands, and found that with the Crimson Trace grip, that I really liked the ergonomics of this pistol.
Now that they have thumb safety's on this gun available, I'd go that route, and cut the right side one off, and still use the CTC grip. (I like, and am used to a thumb safety.)
I have done the full trigger job on my M&P9, and it's about 4lbs, very smooth with very little reset distance, and nearly zero pre-travel. (The trigger safety is defeated by having this little pre-travel, but I can pull the pin that does that mod, and have full trigger movement, and safety while it's used for Concealed Carry.)
The rumor is that a longer trigger bar, and/or extended sear is going to be ready to go here soon, so it will allow users to customize the action even more.
There are a few sight options for this pistol too. (Not as many as the Glock's, but every day they make more aftermarket stuff for the M&P's.)
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