Read the whole thread before making a decision on mods. This first post isn't completely accurate but I decided to leave it in it's original form so you could see the debates and stuff in the thread.
-Ma70.Ent
=================================================================================================
I'm mainly doing this to 1) help out people wanting to know how to upgrade their N/A's, and to 2) make it so people do not make the usual "what upgrades should I do to my N/A" threads. Below, I'll state what the reasonable upgrades are, what your routes are, and how you can get these parts. Goes from more simple, to mild, to extreme. Mods can edit this anytime if you'd like to organize/tweak this thread.
Intake
First, you need to get that engine breathing better. Start giving it more oxygen by adding an upgraded intake to it. The most restrictive part of the stock intake system is the airbox, so buy something like the K&N FIPK to replace the airbox. You can also just get a filter/adapter on Ebay for pretty cheap, I bought mine for $20, works nearly the same.
Exhaust
This is somewhat of a controversial subject as far as exhaust systems go for N/A's. One thing you need to realize before upgrading your exhaust is that backpressure on a naturally aspirated engine is your enemy! An increase in backpressure will result in a loss of power, which is what you wanna stay away from. So you people with your 3" exhausts, you've actually lost power. The most reasonable size to use when doing your exhaust is 2.5". You're upgrading to a bigger size thus adding abit more power, and you don't have to worry about backpressure. And as far as sound goes, it's up to you on the muffler you want to use and if you want to use a test pipe/cat. I personally kept the stock cat and added a resonator so the sound was more deep and not very loud, sounds great. You can also look into getting a test pipe, but that is illegal in some states/counties and I will not go into any depth concerning that.
EDIT by Ma70.Ent: Read this thread for more info.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49151
Headers
If you've already added an upgraded exhaust, a header might be advised if you'd like to get the full flow out of your system. OBX and Pacesetter are just some of the companies that make these upgradeable headers, but unfortunately due to what many users have stated, they need to be modified in order to fit. If you are in a situation where you do want to get one, 935 Motorsports (who is a sponsor on here) sells these manifolds already modified to fit, as well as some that are 2.5" all the way out to maximize flow.
Porting/polishing
This is more of a mild mod, but can be the one of the most expensive mods if you go into more and more detail with the shop you choose to work with. Remember when I said flow was the key? It's the same concept here. The stock y-pipe and the intake manifold are pretty restrictive, take the time to hollow everything out (you can polish it if you want bling, and easy to clean areas), to get the best flow possible from your parts.
1-piece driveshaft
Everyone has gotten into the situation at one time or another where their carrier bearing has gone bad. Not only does this affect performance, but the weight of the stock driveshaft is unbearable, at nearly 30+ lbs, you have to give alot of effort at times to get what you want out of your car. Get rid of this problem by going with a 1 piece driveshaft, this will put less stress of your effort to accelerate, making the rotation mass less. You can either choose steel or aluminum, but I recommend steel as it's around 15 lbs, aluminum is around 11 lbs, but I personally think it's too extreme if you're staying N/A. Jawsgear is one company that sells these driveshafts, and they're on the forums as well. You can also go to a local welding shop in your area if you want to save some $.
Lightened flywheel
This of course applies to those with a manual transmission. The idea with these lighter parts is to give you less rotation mass, making driving easier as you give less effort because you've lowered the mass. A lightened flywheel is something that can help out in this. With this application, you will see throttle response, as well as easier shifting/throttle ease. The idea is to get rid of the rotation mass as much as possible.
Smaller/lightened wheels
This upgrade certainly isn't necessary (but then again, none of these are
) but it certainly does help. Find some aftermarket/stock wheels that are lighter then the sawblades or whatever wheels you have currently. I'd personally recommend the 3rd gen RX-7 wheels, as they are very light, and a simple 5 spoke design. This upgrade will lighten your car, give you easier braking power, and not give as much trouble when accelerating (will give you better throttle response basically).
Lightened body parts/weight reduction
This is of course for the enthusiast that wants to go "all out" and wants to of course compromise the stock look of the car. Lighten the somewhat heavy Supra by dropping a few pounds. One of the easiest ways to start off is to get ahold of a CF/fiberglass hood. The stock hood is quite heavy, and you'll save more then a dozen pounds by doing so. There are no other lightened body parts that I know of, but you can always make custom fenders/hatches if you really wanted to go all out. As far as interior weight reduction goes, the seats are something that should be replaced with a lighter aftermarket application. Ebay sells some generic Bride replica seats that are very light, and grip you very well, they're around $350 dollars (just an idea of what Ebay offers). You can also take out the backseats, as well as the spare tire board and the spare tire/accessories to go along with it. This is of course another upgrade for the hardcore enthusiast. It is recommend to relocate the battery to the rear if you take out alot of weight from the back.
Raise the compression/build the head, aftermarket pistons
Again, this is advanced modding. Time to go with an aftermarket MHG to raise the compression. Thickness for the MHG depends on how much you need to mill off the head, then you go from there. I'd suggest a 1.2MM HG if you have a normal head/block. If you have alot of warping however, 2MM might be the way to go. Also, buy aftermarket pistons that are slightly bored over, you might as well if you want to raise the compression and get the full benefit of your motor.
Fuel and timing
If you have done enough mods, you will know that there is always more that you want. Well, a simple way to benefit more from your mods is to raise the stock timing. The stock timing according to TSRM spec is around 10 degrees. Raise the timing to 12-14, depending on how extreme you wanna go (but be warned, you must go with higher octane fuel if you raise the timing). If you wanted to go the extra mile, you could also get an SAFC to fully tune and take advantage of your powerband.
Ignition
To key is to get better spark. High output capacitive discharge sparks ensure complete combustion of the fuel mixture especially at high rpm. You don't want your system to fail because of your ignition system. MSD along with a few other companies make ignition systems for decent prices.
Cams
This is a mod for those going the next step. Since you'll be N/A, it's recommended to go with a mild set of cams, too extreme and you won't be running so good unless you have the supporting mods. There is an online website that regrinds your stock cams to around 244 degrees, which is mild enough for an N/A wanting to go the extra mile. http://www.webcamshafts.com/toyota-auto.html
-Matt
-Ma70.Ent
=================================================================================================
I'm mainly doing this to 1) help out people wanting to know how to upgrade their N/A's, and to 2) make it so people do not make the usual "what upgrades should I do to my N/A" threads. Below, I'll state what the reasonable upgrades are, what your routes are, and how you can get these parts. Goes from more simple, to mild, to extreme. Mods can edit this anytime if you'd like to organize/tweak this thread.
Intake
First, you need to get that engine breathing better. Start giving it more oxygen by adding an upgraded intake to it. The most restrictive part of the stock intake system is the airbox, so buy something like the K&N FIPK to replace the airbox. You can also just get a filter/adapter on Ebay for pretty cheap, I bought mine for $20, works nearly the same.
Exhaust
This is somewhat of a controversial subject as far as exhaust systems go for N/A's. One thing you need to realize before upgrading your exhaust is that backpressure on a naturally aspirated engine is your enemy! An increase in backpressure will result in a loss of power, which is what you wanna stay away from. So you people with your 3" exhausts, you've actually lost power. The most reasonable size to use when doing your exhaust is 2.5". You're upgrading to a bigger size thus adding abit more power, and you don't have to worry about backpressure. And as far as sound goes, it's up to you on the muffler you want to use and if you want to use a test pipe/cat. I personally kept the stock cat and added a resonator so the sound was more deep and not very loud, sounds great. You can also look into getting a test pipe, but that is illegal in some states/counties and I will not go into any depth concerning that.
EDIT by Ma70.Ent: Read this thread for more info.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49151
Headers
If you've already added an upgraded exhaust, a header might be advised if you'd like to get the full flow out of your system. OBX and Pacesetter are just some of the companies that make these upgradeable headers, but unfortunately due to what many users have stated, they need to be modified in order to fit. If you are in a situation where you do want to get one, 935 Motorsports (who is a sponsor on here) sells these manifolds already modified to fit, as well as some that are 2.5" all the way out to maximize flow.
Porting/polishing
This is more of a mild mod, but can be the one of the most expensive mods if you go into more and more detail with the shop you choose to work with. Remember when I said flow was the key? It's the same concept here. The stock y-pipe and the intake manifold are pretty restrictive, take the time to hollow everything out (you can polish it if you want bling, and easy to clean areas), to get the best flow possible from your parts.
1-piece driveshaft
Everyone has gotten into the situation at one time or another where their carrier bearing has gone bad. Not only does this affect performance, but the weight of the stock driveshaft is unbearable, at nearly 30+ lbs, you have to give alot of effort at times to get what you want out of your car. Get rid of this problem by going with a 1 piece driveshaft, this will put less stress of your effort to accelerate, making the rotation mass less. You can either choose steel or aluminum, but I recommend steel as it's around 15 lbs, aluminum is around 11 lbs, but I personally think it's too extreme if you're staying N/A. Jawsgear is one company that sells these driveshafts, and they're on the forums as well. You can also go to a local welding shop in your area if you want to save some $.
Lightened flywheel
This of course applies to those with a manual transmission. The idea with these lighter parts is to give you less rotation mass, making driving easier as you give less effort because you've lowered the mass. A lightened flywheel is something that can help out in this. With this application, you will see throttle response, as well as easier shifting/throttle ease. The idea is to get rid of the rotation mass as much as possible.
Smaller/lightened wheels
This upgrade certainly isn't necessary (but then again, none of these are
) but it certainly does help. Find some aftermarket/stock wheels that are lighter then the sawblades or whatever wheels you have currently. I'd personally recommend the 3rd gen RX-7 wheels, as they are very light, and a simple 5 spoke design. This upgrade will lighten your car, give you easier braking power, and not give as much trouble when accelerating (will give you better throttle response basically). Lightened body parts/weight reduction
This is of course for the enthusiast that wants to go "all out" and wants to of course compromise the stock look of the car. Lighten the somewhat heavy Supra by dropping a few pounds. One of the easiest ways to start off is to get ahold of a CF/fiberglass hood. The stock hood is quite heavy, and you'll save more then a dozen pounds by doing so. There are no other lightened body parts that I know of, but you can always make custom fenders/hatches if you really wanted to go all out. As far as interior weight reduction goes, the seats are something that should be replaced with a lighter aftermarket application. Ebay sells some generic Bride replica seats that are very light, and grip you very well, they're around $350 dollars (just an idea of what Ebay offers). You can also take out the backseats, as well as the spare tire board and the spare tire/accessories to go along with it. This is of course another upgrade for the hardcore enthusiast. It is recommend to relocate the battery to the rear if you take out alot of weight from the back.
Raise the compression/build the head, aftermarket pistons
Again, this is advanced modding. Time to go with an aftermarket MHG to raise the compression. Thickness for the MHG depends on how much you need to mill off the head, then you go from there. I'd suggest a 1.2MM HG if you have a normal head/block. If you have alot of warping however, 2MM might be the way to go. Also, buy aftermarket pistons that are slightly bored over, you might as well if you want to raise the compression and get the full benefit of your motor.
Fuel and timing
If you have done enough mods, you will know that there is always more that you want. Well, a simple way to benefit more from your mods is to raise the stock timing. The stock timing according to TSRM spec is around 10 degrees. Raise the timing to 12-14, depending on how extreme you wanna go (but be warned, you must go with higher octane fuel if you raise the timing). If you wanted to go the extra mile, you could also get an SAFC to fully tune and take advantage of your powerband.
Ignition
To key is to get better spark. High output capacitive discharge sparks ensure complete combustion of the fuel mixture especially at high rpm. You don't want your system to fail because of your ignition system. MSD along with a few other companies make ignition systems for decent prices.
Cams
This is a mod for those going the next step. Since you'll be N/A, it's recommended to go with a mild set of cams, too extreme and you won't be running so good unless you have the supporting mods. There is an online website that regrinds your stock cams to around 244 degrees, which is mild enough for an N/A wanting to go the extra mile. http://www.webcamshafts.com/toyota-auto.html
-Matt
