Dual relays/fuses splitting the load would probably work too. I run a single 30/40 amp relay and I upgraded to a large heavy duty fuse that looks just like the black one pictured, but it's about 3 times the size of a normal one, Lordco has them.
GrimJack;1620738 said:Well, I've put in a new relay for the now, and I'm in the process of hunting down some waterproof gear for peace of mind. Also installed the TRD thermostat last night, and I'll probably flush the coolant system and replace it with Toyota Red for the winter.
IJ.;1620759 said:Brand new block, 4000 Km's with green and you could feel the corrision on the deck with a fingernail.
35000 Km's with Toyota Red and a fresh deck NO SIGN of corrosion at all still shiny from the surface job on the blank steam holes.
YMMV but these are my findings not something I'm pulling out of my ass...
NashMan;1621123 said:my dad taco had some issue wiht toy red ate away but the water pump
and on teh 4x4 forum sasy it form useing toyota red
NashMan;1621123 said:my dad taco had some issue wiht toy red ate away but the water pump
and on teh 4x4 forum sasy it form useing toyota red
Poodles;1621134 said:Or using cheap water pumps with cast impellers.
Diesels have special needs when it comes to antifreezes. A lot of this has to do with the fact that diesel engines vibrate. This fact can be made worse if the engine design has sleeves, like cylinder sleeves. These are also called cylinder liners. The solid particles in the antifreeze (silicates) get in between the sleeves, and cause pitting. Silicates exist because they clean deposits through the abrasive action they produce while traveling through the cooling system. They also seal up small holes.
To solve this issue, antifreezes come in 'diesel' versions. The recipe varies, but basically they just lower the level of the silicates.
The additives will sit in ethylene glycol (EG) and propylene glycol (PG). Their is no difference, except that propylene glycol costs more and is much more environmentally friendly...it won't kill the cats when they come over and lick up some that got spilt on the floor.( Your neighbors will thank you ;-)
The above basically deals with conventional coolants. We now have extended service, long life coolants. These coolants have been used for a long time in Europe and are based on organic acids. They are more friendly to the environment, and are easier to recycle. Since they don't contain phosphates, nitrites, silicates etc...you don't have to worry about special diesel versions. Not all OATs coolants are the same though. The ASTM has developed tests to make sure that these coolants will last the 5 years they are supposed to last. Make sure that the brand your using meets these specs. See the Texaco document below to get an idea of what kind of things you should be looking for. Some organic acid long life coolants are actually a hybrid of the two types and contain silicates. Also some organic acid coolants CAN NOT be mixed with conventional coolants, they will form a gel - check for a warning on the product.
I'm going to add more to this section as I learn more myself.