The lsd thread
- Thread starter NashMan
- Start date
there are plenty of companies that make torsens for other cars...
pisses me off that nobody has made a GOOD aftermarket one for us...
pisses me off that nobody has made a GOOD aftermarket one for us...
grague 5 one of our suppler's suppost to be the last one in the state's so order time will be like 3 eeks or more has to come from japan
BorHor said:
well me my self is not a fan of speed multplers there great for auto x and very tighy cornering but for over all raceing 2 ways are used most
Poodles said:
will do the plan is to install it after my hand is in good working order throw on the stock 92 wheels and see what she does muhahahah
I like cornering... but I don't think a factory torsen would put up with the 7M torque for long...
People need to be stabbed in the face for not making parts for us... There is obviously a need for a stronger torsen...
People need to be stabbed in the face for not making parts for us... There is obviously a need for a stronger torsen...
the really only torson rear diff makers out there aka speed multpler diffs is quaife
they only make dog box tranny for the ae86 and some gt4's
they only make dog box tranny for the ae86 and some gt4's
My Detroit TruTrac is a primative clunky noisy PoS compared to a T1 Torsen but it's still far nicer to drive with than a clutch style LSD 
the trutrac is meant to handle almost as much as their lockers... so I cna understand it being...primitive.
It seems that most OEM JDM Mk3 torsen diffs that fail have the main housing shear off from the ring gear part, due to fatigue over time (this happened to mine, it failed while cruising around). In another thread we were discussing how if that weak joint could be strengthened, perhaps with a bead of weld, it might be enough to prevent the fatigue and failure. The solution seemed plausible as we had a side-by-side photo of the Mk3 and Mk4 torsens, and the Mk4 housing was beefed up at the point where the Mk3 one was failing.
This diff was dreamy to drive on, especially auto-X. Anyone want to guinea pig this idea?? It would be the cheapest solution...
This diff was dreamy to drive on, especially auto-X. Anyone want to guinea pig this idea?? It would be the cheapest solution...
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IJ. said:
that's the truth!
i'm still considering have quaife build one for us....
Big Rob said:
yups. the truck 8" truetrac doesn't work in our pumpkin.
Poodles said:
it won't. see my sites....
tekdeus said:
the MKIV torsen is a T2, not a T1.....in other words, completely different design and metallurgy.
i agree, the T1 was FANTASTIC to drive on....i miss it.
there are plenty of american companies that make them as well... I may look into them...
Sadly everyone wants a clutch style for drifting these days...
Sadly everyone wants a clutch style for drifting these days...
Hmm, I have a friend who might be interested in beefing up the JZA70 torsen diff. I'll have to go talk to him next week about it. I know he has an extra one lying around, and the welding skills, and a JZA80 diff to compare it to.
And yeah, the MKIII torsen is an awesome diff, when it's not broken in half. I love mine.
And yeah, the MKIII torsen is an awesome diff, when it's not broken in half. I love mine.
You could possibly press fit a steel drum girdle over the Torsen depending on clearence that would prevent the case expanding and splitting under power.
It fails where the case is thinnest at the helical gear cutouts to allow the Ring gear to be fitted, in effect it's a "cut along dotted lines" deal.
It fails where the case is thinnest at the helical gear cutouts to allow the Ring gear to be fitted, in effect it's a "cut along dotted lines" deal.
Here's the photos of the Mk3 and Mk4 Torsens side by side, taken from this long thread: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=392174
Check it out, as well as the photos below. It seems that the case fatigues, with cracks beginning at the corners of the gear windows, possibly because of outward forces caused by the internal gearing under load.
*** Anyone know of any good racing shops or metal workers that we could get more opions from about how to reinforce these areas?
And here are photos of the broken Mk3 diffs:
Fatigue points:
This was my diff, you can barely see how the unit sheared off from the ring gear! It did this during casual driving, so I assume it's a metal fatigue issue. There may be a small amount off room in there for reinforcement of some kind.
Check it out, as well as the photos below. It seems that the case fatigues, with cracks beginning at the corners of the gear windows, possibly because of outward forces caused by the internal gearing under load.
*** Anyone know of any good racing shops or metal workers that we could get more opions from about how to reinforce these areas?
And here are photos of the broken Mk3 diffs:
Fatigue points:
This was my diff, you can barely see how the unit sheared off from the ring gear! It did this during casual driving, so I assume it's a metal fatigue issue. There may be a small amount off room in there for reinforcement of some kind.
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