the "how to install cams" guide (pics)

[str8_6]

panchira- 2jz shims are the same. so are mr2 turbo shims.

honestabe- time can not really be said because you wont really know what shims you'll need yet, if you need them, if the dealer stocks them, if you buy from out of state sources, etc...

if this is your first time tearing apart a 1jz and you get lucky and need no new shim..i'd say give yourself a good 6-8 hours. at least for me because i get really picky of doing things and i'm really self caustious. i check, recheck, and tripple check everything.

to call it safe i'd say give the down time at least 2 days. one day tear everything apart early in the morning, order new shims... wait for local dealer to order them and it arrives next day. you're in oregon so it shouldnt really be a problem for you. lots of toyota dealers to share parts.

 

[DJTee]

hi all sorry for pulling this old thread out, i just have a few questions.
i have purchased 2jz valve springs for my car will my 1jz retainer + buckets fit these spring or do i need to order new retainers and buckets??
whilst im doing the springs im also going to do the stem seals, any advice for ease of removal/installation and also will 2jz stem seals fit the 1jz??
and are the clearances provided (0.006-0.010 + 0.010-0.014) are these factory specs??

 

[jgdynamics]

this is a great write up!! gonna start on my cam installs tonight. hope everything goes well!

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Make sure they sit flush before tightening them down. Front of the cam where the seal goes over needs to be over the journal on the front of the head. Make sure it is or you can snap a cam.....

 

[k20maniac]

good info to have handy!!

 

[simmi]

Changing a camshaft is simple if you have some help in the confusing corners. We did our cam swap in about an hour on a chassis dyno, using air tools; an in-car installation with hand tools takes a bit more time. The first step requires removing and labeling anything in front of the timing-chain cover and on top of the intake manifold. Once the coolant is drained and the accessories are out of the way, remove the intake-manifold bolts. A small hammer and chisel or flat-head screwdriver may be needed to pry the intake manifold from the engine block. The cork or silicone gasket material in this area will be replaced so damage is not a concern. After removing the intake manifold, scrape the front and rear block rails clean of cork, silicone, oil, or any other foreign substance. Line the lifter valley with paper towels to capture the debris.

Remove the valve covers to access the rockers, pushrods, and lifters. Keep the rockers and pushrods in order. While you remove the rocker nuts, the engine may have to be turned over a few times in order to take valvespring pressure away from certain rocker-to-valve stem contact points.
I searched it from google....

 

[str8_6]

Changing a camshaft is simple if you have some help in the confusing corners. We did our cam swap in about an hour on a chassis dyno, using air tools; an in-car installation with hand tools takes a bit more time. The first step requires removing and labeling anything in front of the timing-chain cover and on top of the intake manifold. Once the coolant is drained and the accessories are out of the way, remove the intake-manifold bolts. A small hammer and chisel or flat-head screwdriver may be needed to pry the intake manifold from the engine block. The cork or silicone gasket material in this area will be replaced so damage is not a concern. After removing the intake manifold, scrape the front and rear block rails clean of cork, silicone, oil, or any other foreign substance. Line the lifter valley with paper towels to capture the debris.

Remove the valve covers to access the rockers, pushrods, and lifters. Keep the rockers and pushrods in order. While you remove the rocker nuts, the engine may have to be turned over a few times in order to take valvespring pressure away from certain rocker-to-valve stem contact points.
I searched it from google....

No offense, but get that shit out of here. First we don't have chain, rockers, push rods, or lifters. Secondly the manifold does not have to be removed. third, you should just delete your post.

 

[bkma71]

Newb question im sure but im going to be installing bc 264's and Ive never dealt with cams. Do I have to rotate the motor as I rotate the cam to measure shim clearance to avoid interferance or can i just rotate cam by hand/rachet to get measurements? do 264s even make it a interference setup? Do you guys go through the whole process of installing the tbelt to rotate cams? The guide kinda goes off track after the first measurement

 

[str8_6]

Hi,

No sir. You do not have to rotate the whole engine or put the t-belt back on. Just make sure you tighten the cam caps properly and put the cam bolt back in. Put a socket to that bolt and turn the cam. These are non interference engines so you're safe. sorry for the confusion. even the 272 are non interference if you have the small cores. Key word, small core.

 

[bkma71]

Thanks for the fast reply, i've followed the guide and tsrm exactly and i'm at the point where i'm checking shims... I check the first 2, but when i try and turn the cam it turns and I can see the shims compressing with ease, then it just stops and will not turn period.. any thoughts?

EDIT: Never mind i'm retarded, we were using the new bc cam gears and it was hitting on the damn timing cover bolt.. problem sovled!

 

[pmmfred]

I made 2 videos on installing cams if youd like to add this to the first post of this thread to help people out
[video=youtube;dHbmCB6T4Nc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dHbmCB6T4Nc[/video]
[video=youtube;8ID9q0cZMZI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ID9q0cZMZI[/video]