Test-Starting Aristo 2JZ without Trans, Strategies...

[mortadellama70]

Hi Everyone,

I finally received my Aristo 2JZ from Nagasaki JDM Motors out of Montreal, Canada.

I've bought a few motors from them before, and have always been concerned with Possible Knock/CrankWalk Issues prior to being able to start and drive the car.

My 30 Day Startup Warranty will be up before the car will drive, so this is my only option.

I have not wired her up to the car yet, but I plan to jump power directly to the starter, just as a quick solution to test run the 2JZ.

Now, I do not have a Transmission yet, but I do have everything else necessary to start the Motor...

It's been years since I last did this, and I'm curious to see what the Pros have to say, before I proceed...



1. The 2JZ has an R154 Flywheel on it, currently bolted down to spec.

2. I rigged the Starter up with some short bolts/washers and nuts so that it could precisely spin the flywheel in exactly the same position as it would with the transmission bolted up.

3. I've hooked up my radiator, along with coolant and hoses in proper positions. (heater hoses too)

4. Fuel Pump is hooked up and ready to pump

5. Igniter, ECU, and all other necessary sensors are plugged in, and neatly placed, ready to rock.

6. Motor is filled with oil.

7. I have a battery hooked up straight to the starter, ready to introduce power and crank her over...


Am I forgetting Anything?


Keep In Mind there is NO TRANSMISSION at this time, but everything is free and clear of the flywheel.


Thanks for everyone's input, I can't wait to hear this baby start up smooth and clean without knock!

-Mikhail

 

[IBoughtASupra]

You will have to kick on the computer and power the injectors some how.

 

[Bleakvoid]

You will have to kick on the computer and power the injectors some how.

Wiring a distribution panel (ie, voltage from alternator/battery to a few fuse holders and relays) shouldn't prove excessively difficult. EWD for the JZA80 would prove infinitely useful here; most OBD2 motors are a self contained system, requiring only that the starter motor and ECU(s) get +12v, ground, and sensors be in place.

I'm interested to see how this works out; I'd like to set up a test bench of sorts for a few projects that are having motors built on stands. A movable cart with battery leads and a fuel tank/pump setup would be ideal, and sounds almost like what you have set up.

 

[mkiiichip]

Why dont you inspect the bottom end? That would give a much better idea of its condition anyways.

 

[mortadellama70]

I already pulled the oil pan and inspected each cylinder... ZERO metal shavings, but the oil is a tad dark...


I don't want to pull any rod caps off, because I don't like re-using stock bolts to re-install the cap...


As far as the ECU / Injectors receiving power in order to start the motor, I have gone through my schematics, and I have not been able to confidently settle on a solution...


Any ideas on the best way to temporarily put power to the ECU / Injectors without frying the ECU?


Thanks for everyone's input.

 

[Bleakvoid]

I haven't played with a 2jz ecu, but find a pinout for it. You should have a constant 12, ignition switched 12v, and possibly an input from the starter relay. All the rest should be in/outputs, possibly to other control units.

 

[The Flash]

Better to check the caps while it's out running it might not tell you the
Condition of them

 

[thedave925]

Not wanting to reinstall old bolts is hilarious. You think they were 'plastic-regioned' on initial install or something?
Check the bearings out before hand, engines only bust when they're running

 

[89turbotoy]

you could compression test this way but test firing is not a good idea, if you want to get a good idea on the engine's condition, check the rod bearings and pull the head off and look. There really is nothing you can tell from starting it only the simple fact that it runs, which doesn't mean it is in good. shape

---------- Post added at 07:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:32 PM ----------

trying to get the ecu powered up is just too difficult anyway, just do a compression check if you don't want to tear it down.

 

[mortadellama70]

you could compression test this way but test firing is not a good idea, if you want to get a good idea on the engine's condition, check the rod bearings and pull the head off and look. There really is nothing you can tell from starting it only the simple fact that it runs, which doesn't mean it is in good. shape


---------- Post added at 07:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:32 PM ----------

trying to get the ecu powered up is just too difficult anyway, just do a compression check if you don't want to tear it down.

I compression tested the 2jz this way, and all readings varied between 170 psi and 180 psi.

I'm gonna see about pullin the head / a rod cap or two, just to be sure. For some reason I always thought that once the rod cap was unbolted, the bearing had to be replaced. Thanks for the knowledge, gentlemen. And re-using the oem rod bolt is OK as well?

Thanks again =)