BHG/cracked head/cracked block. COmbustion gases should not be present in cooling system. If that comes back clean, no gases present then look into radiator/water pump flow.
Temp issues......... NO BHG!!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter bluedragon17
- Start date
cool thanks for the info on that ill pick that up tomorrow and perform the test and post all the results of it i dont have to send the results out to be analyzed do i???
Although the Ford dual fan set up does work quite nicely(I have them on my car), the rest of your cooling system needs to be in good working order as well.
Do the block test mentioned.
You can take your radiator to a radiator shop and have it tested, and either cleaned or get a new one. You can flow test it yourself, but it isn't as accurate as the tests used at the shop. Drain the radiator, and take off the upper and lower hoses. Stick a water hose in the top rad. hose fitting, and turn it on fully. Water should flow easily through the rad., without backing up through the top. Put your hand over the bottom rad. hose fitting to block it off until water comes out the fill neck. Let it go, and the water should gush out hard, and rapidly drain the radiator. If it has the same flow as before you blocked it, chances are good it needs cleaned or replaced. If you see a bunch of rust and crud come out when you first start this test, you can bet the motor is full of the same crap, and needs flushed. Like I said, this isn't the best test, but will tell you if your radiator is stopped up.
Do the block test mentioned.
You can take your radiator to a radiator shop and have it tested, and either cleaned or get a new one. You can flow test it yourself, but it isn't as accurate as the tests used at the shop. Drain the radiator, and take off the upper and lower hoses. Stick a water hose in the top rad. hose fitting, and turn it on fully. Water should flow easily through the rad., without backing up through the top. Put your hand over the bottom rad. hose fitting to block it off until water comes out the fill neck. Let it go, and the water should gush out hard, and rapidly drain the radiator. If it has the same flow as before you blocked it, chances are good it needs cleaned or replaced. If you see a bunch of rust and crud come out when you first start this test, you can bet the motor is full of the same crap, and needs flushed. Like I said, this isn't the best test, but will tell you if your radiator is stopped up.
thats the thing...........car didnt have any cooling issues until i blew the lower intake mani gasket and replaced it.(throttle body had to be removed) and coolant leaked everywhere when i did that. i burped the system before i drove the car and founf another leak fixed that and no issues until about 3 weeks or so ago...........but i will try the combustion gas test and the rad test also but i work for Jiffy lube (between jobs with school in my defense) and ive had my rad flushed there 2 times now and it comes out fine..........no particles or any type of mix at all in the coolant. oil is fine also as mentioned earlier
Oh god... I match the symptoms of a BHG, and I'm N/A!!!
I hear a waterfall sound coming from my dash at 2RPMS,
I'm losing coolant somewhere
And I'm throwing a code 22
I also have white smoke coming from exhaust at a cold startup
Does this mean I have a BHG?
I hear a waterfall sound coming from my dash at 2RPMS,
I'm losing coolant somewhere
And I'm throwing a code 22
I also have white smoke coming from exhaust at a cold startup
Does this mean I have a BHG?
If you have a clogged radiator, you can flush it all you want and it will not correct the problem. Deposits will remain on the internal channels and will not show during/after the flush. They can only be removes by having the radiator rodded or you replace the radiator.
st2b said:
Perform the combustion gas test that is mentioned above. It taes all of 5 minutes to get a sample from the radiator and mix the test solution. Doing this test first can save you time and frustration.
9 times out of ten it's better to just replace the radiator...
might as well replace the water pump, t-stat, and fan clutch at the same time if needed...
might as well replace the water pump, t-stat, and fan clutch at the same time if needed...
^^^ Yep! Might as well upgrade the rad to a dual core too 
I think he's taken care of the other stuff...I would cut the jiggle valve off the T-stat though to allow a small amount of coolant flow through the rad all the time.
I think he's taken care of the other stuff...I would cut the jiggle valve off the T-stat though to allow a small amount of coolant flow through the rad all the time.
thanks for all the info on this thursday is my day off and ill be doing all of this stuff to figure out what the hell has been going on
ok all so heres the verdict......................its actually a few things
The water pump broke just 1 fin off and went through the motor slicing a small small whole in the heater hose going out of the heater core where i couldnt see it with the dye detector. The coolant lines that go under the exhaust manifold where the rubber line hooks up has a heat and stress crack in it. The fin that broke off also got lodged in the bottom radiator hose which caused coolant flow to be greatly diminished. The fin also had another small piece that broke off that stuck the t-stat open all the time so the coolant wouldn t have enough time to cool down properly before flowing through the motor when it opens. So new water pump all new coolant lines new heater core cuz the dash was already removed new radiator the two metal lines under the exhaust manifold are replaced. Basically a complete cooling system overhaul im mad cuz well i really couldnt afford to do it but i also didnt want to have a BHG in the near future cuz that might cost more to fix. So 3000 later with labor and complete install with everything new and my car no longer overheats
The water pump broke just 1 fin off and went through the motor slicing a small small whole in the heater hose going out of the heater core where i couldnt see it with the dye detector. The coolant lines that go under the exhaust manifold where the rubber line hooks up has a heat and stress crack in it. The fin that broke off also got lodged in the bottom radiator hose which caused coolant flow to be greatly diminished. The fin also had another small piece that broke off that stuck the t-stat open all the time so the coolant wouldn t have enough time to cool down properly before flowing through the motor when it opens. So new water pump all new coolant lines new heater core cuz the dash was already removed new radiator the two metal lines under the exhaust manifold are replaced. Basically a complete cooling system overhaul im mad cuz well i really couldnt afford to do it but i also didnt want to have a BHG in the near future cuz that might cost more to fix. So 3000 later with labor and complete install with everything new and my car no longer overheats
Buy a turbo fan and clutch (should be one piece) and put it in. Had the same problem with my car
labor basically bent me over and said take it like a good little bitch yes. and im upgrading to a pair of flex-a-lite fans that flow i think it was 2600CFM to fix this problem. Thanks for all he feedback and help figuring this out all these forums have really saved my ass from paying way to much for a simple fix...........