-=Fonz=-;1015451 said:i m going to be doing a 1.2 mm HKS metal headgasket it. I m not sure what you guys are saying when decking it out the head and block ??
Right now im trying to just replace the stock hg and put a metal hg and arp bolts and just drive it till summer is over and then i m planning to rebuild my engine over the winter.
Max boost ill probably want to hit is stock 8lbs nothing more.. Thats it.. as it is, im scared to even push the car cuz it's too much boost to handle right now for me,
So can i just replace the stock hg and replace it with mhg ??? without problems ?? or doing any work ??
-=Fonz=-;1015451 said:i m going to be doing a 1.2 mm HKS metal headgasket it. I m not sure what you guys are saying when decking it out the head and block ??
Right now im trying to just replace the stock hg and put a metal hg and arp bolts and just drive it till summer is over and then i m planning to rebuild my engine over the winter.
Max boost ill probably want to hit is stock 8lbs nothing more.. Thats it.. as it is, im scared to even push the car cuz it's too much boost to handle right now for me,
So can i just replace the stock hg and replace it with mhg ??? without problems ?? or doing any work ??
jdub;1015245 said:It's not a lie. Every manufacturer of MHG's publish a RA spec for their product...why do they do that? The smoothness of the mating surfaces is critical for the viton coating to seal. The difference in expansion rates between the iron block and aluminum head produces a "scrubbing" effect the ridgid MHG can't tolerate well...the smoother the mating surfaces, the better it minimizes this.
Guys do get away with not doing the block...it's a crap shoot if the block deck is smooth enough. Most I've seen end up redoing the job. IMO, If you can't deck both the head and block, you're better off with a stock composite HG.
HommerSimpson;1015463 said:Decking block = resurface as in take block out.... take ALL apart ....take to machine shop ... with head....
Now if you are not going to do the block and head and just slap a gasket on there.. you have 3 ways... 1 mhg and it will prob not seal and leak because you didnt surface block and head.. or 2 stopper mhg = 335 bucks and it will work alot better with no machine work but recomended you still have machine work done to block and head... or a good OEM grafite gasket and that will be cheapest and work best.... + arp studs no matter what way you go..... Now this is just my opinun... I spend hrs every day and hrs every night reading on here... And i learn the hard way alot... so do what you want...but at this point i think oem gasket going to be best for you... and you STILL HAVE TO CHECK the head and block for straitness... if head is warped or block or both... it wont last long.. few thousand miles if you lucky....
jdub;1015477 said:OK...one more time and this applies to any MHG, including a HKS Stopper:
The block and head sealing surfaces MUST be flat for ANY head gasket to seal.
If your max boost is going to be 8 psi, I would go with a OEM composite HG. If you buy the complete head gasket kit (FelPro or Toyota), it will come with all the gaskets, seals, and O-rings you will need. I would spend the extra $$$ on ARP studs...torque to the ARP spec sheet that comes with them.
suprahabsfan;1015579 said:It will work better as in it will have less of a chance of blowing under high boost...When installed properly...ie block completely flat. IT WILL NOT SEAL ANY BETTER THEN A BEAD TYPE.