take your guesses

[northwestsupra]

picture 1... located on passenger side of engine rear next to the transmission plate. what is it?? looks like a banjo fitting would normally go onto it.

pic 2, do you think the oil return will be fine like this?

pic 3, the engine harness running under the EGR back plate. to much heat?? no problems if there is i have enough i can run above the firewall. and also the metal coolant line.. idk if im even using anything that its attached to anymore lol, so im thinking that is coming off also. but please correct me if im wrong.

pic 4, what can i do about the retarded hose going from the valve cover to the block?? is there a way i can make that like a SS type line? like a slip over 90 degree sweep to idk a -12 or somthing lol or will i have to rip that thing outta the block and valve cover and make idk tap it or somthing.

kinda like this

 

[IJ.]

#1 Block coolant drain.

 

[northwestsupra]

#1 Block coolant drain.

thats what sakurio said. or however you spell his name "luis"

 

[IJ.]

thats what sakurio said. or however you spell his name "luis"

You should listen to people that are smarter

 

[northwestsupra]

You should listen to people that are smarter

he said not to quote him on that lol, so that means he was unsure. i was just looking down the side of the block to make sure there wasnt anything like a open hole to a galley and saw that and didn't recognize it. never had to use it

 

[IJ.]

Not all 7M's have it some just have a pipe plug there, it's 9 parts useless as you can't get to it and it's not low enough to fully drain the block.

 

[Poodles]

- As already mentioned, block coolant drain.
- Looks like it goes down then back up, so nope, not good.
- No on harness, it gets hot there, especially if the gasket to the EGR cooler fails. Also, that pipe is the bypass to the back of the head, so no, cna't remove it.
- Get the factory hose as it fits right, or if you want to go the extremely expensive way, go with AN fittings.

Not all 7M's have it some just have a pipe plug there, it's 9 parts useless as you can't get to it and it's not low enough to fully drain the block.

Seems to be mainly to drain the block when you remove the head so you don't have a ton of coolant pouring out and into the oil passages. At least everytime I've removed the head I've opened it and not had coolant everywhere like I see in other people's pics...

 

[Moy]

Eh, it's not extremely expensive. More expensive than the factory rubber hose for sure though.

What size thereabout is that hose?
And is it possible to use a die to cut threads into the port on the side of the valve cover or would the die cut too deeply?

 

[Poodles]

At least $100 worth of fittings and hose to make it. I've only ever seen people weld the mail nipples on the valve cover, I have no idea what they did on the block side...

 

[Nick M]

picture 1... located on passenger side of engine rear next to the transmission plate. what is it?? looks like a banjo fitting would normally go onto it.
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e209/lone_anarchist/4704919f.jpg[IMG][/quote]

Wide angle picture would be better, so an answer will have to wait.

[QUOTE]pic 2, do you think the oil return will be fine like this?
[IMG]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e209/lone_anarchist/79c1d2ea.jpg[IMG][/QUOTE]

The routing and location is perfect. The material is questionable. It needs to be for high heat, and that looks like fabric weave.

[QUOTE]pic 3, the engine harness running under the EGR back plate. to much heat?? no problems if there is i have enough i can run above the firewall. and also the metal coolant line.. idk if im even using anything that its attached to anymore lol, so im thinking that is coming off also. but please correct me if im wrong.
[IMG]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e209/lone_anarchist/017d15df.jpg[IMG][/QUOTE]
Is there something wrong with stock loom? I just looked at mine and don't see any thing there.

[QUOTE]pic 4, what can i do about the retarded hose going from the valve cover to the block??[IMG]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e209/lone_anarchist/3dd6010c.jpg[IMG][/QUOTE]
There is nothing retarded about PCV. It elimated sludge and double engined life when it was thought up. The stock ($$) line isn't nearly an eyesore. Stainless would certainly add to the bling factor. That one is on you and what you want. :)

 

[northwestsupra]

Wide angle picture would be better, so an answer will have to wait.

already answered like 3 times lol coolant drain

The routing and location is perfect. The material is questionable. It needs to be for high heat, and that looks like fabric weave.

it is, its a -12 line that came in a kit from master power

Is there something wrong with stock loom? I just looked at mine and don't see any thing there.

yea there is a problem, its noticable, and its gay, and has like 500 wires. and also im running a stand alone so really the only things that are connected to that part of the loom is injectors, ls2 coils, IAT and TPS

There is nothing retarded about PCV. It elimated sludge and double engined life when it was thought up. The stock ($$) line isn't nearly an eyesore. Stainless would certainly add to the bling factor. That one is on you and what you want.

its retarded because of its placement, it is like the one thing that looked ugly and was really bothering me..

---------- Post added at 03:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:28 PM ----------

At least $100 worth of fittings and hose to make it. I've only ever seen people weld the mail nipples on the valve cover, I have no idea what they did on the block side...

idk about 100$ of fittings maybe like $25-40 from the store near me. And then like 1-2ft of -12 SS line. no big... not trying to sound ghetto, but JB weld is oil resistant and works great for oil pans, would probably work great to put on a AN fitting to the valve cover and block, and would look really clean to "no welds". In my case i'd have to do like that picture of seans engine and have it extended out and not just a -12 fitting on the side of the valve cover because of my big-o fuel rails -10 fitting sean said he machined that out so that dont help my case to much.

---------- Post added at 03:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:33 PM ----------

Eh, it's not extremely expensive. More expensive than the factory rubber hose for sure though.

What size thereabout is that hose?
And is it possible to use a die to cut threads into the port on the side of the valve cover or would the die cut too deeply?

its like a 3/4" or 19mm or a -12 hose "at least thats what i was using lol" 1 size bigger would have been a better fit
i was looking at this idea also, the threads would actually be just about perfect. just have to find a tap that big.

 

[Poodles]

$40 for a big -12 AN 90 degree sweep alone...

 

[northwestsupra]

$40 for a big -12 AN 90 degree sweep alone...

whoever said it had to be a sweep? as long as it can vent we are good

 

[Poodles]

It's also a drain...

 

[northwestsupra]

but how much flow do you think is behind that drain? main point is that it dont get cloged, more than likely why the hose is so big. the whole hose shouldnt be full of oil but it should just drain a mild amount of oil that is getting sucked down by the crank pressure, or any residual oil... correct me if im wrong "which i very well could be"

 

[northwestsupra]

no ideas? just curious if i was remotely right... i just dont see a sweep being vs a sharp 90 being a big issue in this case, also its just 1 bend.. also the main valve cover vents look to be about a -8 in size, am i about right?