symptoms of crank walk on 1jz???
- Thread starter mk3tattoos
- Start date
I heard through the grape vine that once you get crankwalk you can not fix it, and it will get crankwalk again.
Is that true?
Is that true?
Depends on how bad it gets. But generally its better to just start fresh. Once you are past the amount of clearance its not worth it and that will happen quick.
So it would be better/safer to just get a diffrent bottom end and rebuild that, wether it be a 2j or 1j?
Anyone have a good source for a bottom end?
Thanks fellas!
Anyone have a good source for a bottom end?
Thanks fellas!
Junkyard for a 2jzge.
Or else just start trowling all the forums for a used 1j block. Or craigslist.
Or else just start trowling all the forums for a used 1j block. Or craigslist.
Ok thanks......
If you could, check on shipping. If it's not to bad, then that sounds like a plan.
IBoughtASupra;1703643 said:
If you could, check on shipping. If it's not to bad, then that sounds like a plan.
It will be about 250. It is your call. If I were you, find a 2JZ bottom, and build it or pull yours out and put a set of rings and bearings in. It is a weeks work and will save a lot of money.
Bearings with thrust washers
Silicone
Timing belt service
The first two are needed to fix your problem but the timing is not needed. You should do an ARP upgrade while in there or at least put new rod bolts.
Bearings with thrust washers
Silicone
Timing belt service
The first two are needed to fix your problem but the timing is not needed. You should do an ARP upgrade while in there or at least put new rod bolts.
IBoughtASupra;1703667 said:
Saving would be good right now, just opened a new business and I was wanting to go with a single this summer.
If I do rebuild my bottom end, were is a good place to buy bearings with thrust washers? Should I get the clevite bearing set from driftmotion?
I have a full list of other stuff from driftmotion to get, total bill came out to $750.
Then after the engine is broke in I can get the 60-1 kit.
Last edited:
Order from DM and get the ARP while you are at it or at least new Toyota bolts. It won't take long.
You will also need new o rings for the oil pump and gasket for the pick up tube. Curt from Champion can get you those. Just open a quote thread on SupraForums.
You will also need new o rings for the oil pump and gasket for the pick up tube. Curt from Champion can get you those. Just open a quote thread on SupraForums.
I finally opened up my 1j to prove to myself if I had crankwalked. I did indeed crankwalked.
The thrust washers, all 4 where in the oil pan. 2 of the 4 washers were badly damaged. The holding tab tore off and were wore down to tin.
The damper wore into the 1j'z plastic timing belt cover.
The symptoms:
werid vibration in the clutch peddle.
sounds like the starter strugles to start the engine.(clutch down)
If engine is running, I dropped rpm when I clutched. got worst over time, to the point where it would stall the engine.
As the engine got hotter, the engine would not allow the starter to spin fast enoght to start.
damper moves with clutch.
Anyways, I built a 2jzge block to replace it. meh
The thrust washers, all 4 where in the oil pan. 2 of the 4 washers were badly damaged. The holding tab tore off and were wore down to tin.
The damper wore into the 1j'z plastic timing belt cover.
The symptoms:
werid vibration in the clutch peddle.
sounds like the starter strugles to start the engine.(clutch down)
If engine is running, I dropped rpm when I clutched. got worst over time, to the point where it would stall the engine.
As the engine got hotter, the engine would not allow the starter to spin fast enoght to start.
damper moves with clutch.
Anyways, I built a 2jzge block to replace it. meh
Man, crankwalk? I haven't had to think about that since the old 4G63 talon days. I feel so sorry for you guys I take so for granted that I can take a 30min drive whenever I want and pick up my choice of 2JZ-GTE's.
Do not re-work a crankwalked crank, garbage get rid of it.
One question: why would one opt for a 1.5JZ rather than just the 2J. I mean you will still have to source the 1J oil pan and bellhousing, Your not saving any money. So what's that all about? I've heard the "because the cylinder head flows slightly better." I don't buy that. I mean you're opening it all up anyway. light port on a 2J should be good to 1000 hp.
Do not re-work a crankwalked crank, garbage get rid of it.
One question: why would one opt for a 1.5JZ rather than just the 2J. I mean you will still have to source the 1J oil pan and bellhousing, Your not saving any money. So what's that all about? I've heard the "because the cylinder head flows slightly better." I don't buy that. I mean you're opening it all up anyway. light port on a 2J should be good to 1000 hp.
Uh, don't you need a 1J rear facing sump for a 2JZ swap in a Mark3? And the 1Jz Bellhousing with a modded slave and fork for the r154? 2J's will mount to a getrag fine. but not an r154. am I terribly misinformed?
honeydew;1707352 said:
it's done in order to retain any head-work that's been done, in addition to, salvaging a single turbo setup and wiring.
and the R154 mounts to any JZ motor just fine with no modification, just needs a 1J bellhousing.
the cylinder head flow thing was a myth to a certain degree.. there is an S-shaped casting in the 2J head that causes a little restriction IIRC, but it was always more about the items listed above.
honeydew;1707352 said:
cost for me. New built short block for under the cost of a used 2jzgte. Also it's already proven 2j head flow more then the 1j. But then these enginesare boosted, so flow number won't matter that much. It's the raised compression that will more then make up for head flow.