Switch ARP Bolts to Studs

[gottadiesel]

Yeah I know another thread on this subject... but I promise it is a different question :icon_bigg

So when motor was done, ARP studs were ordered, but bolts were delivered... at the time, schedule was somewhat important because of another shop project that needed to come through... so I went with them, but I know that the studs are a better solution.

So now I would like to change them out - two questions:

Do you think it is worth it to change them out? (my next plans are for possible water/meth w/ real on-board knock sensing equipment and 20psi.)

Can I change them one at a time, perhaps setting the new stud/nut initially to current torque on bolts to alleviate any warping, then go through studs and do the typical sequence/passes to get up to torque on the studs?

Any thoughts, ideas or criticism welcomed :icon_bigg

 

[Devin LeBlanc]

That is possible to do removing one and then replacing it with the new stud and torquing it down.. How many ft lbs did you torque your ARP Bolts down to?

 

[toyotanos]

I see trouble with swapping them out if you didn't chase the threads in the block. Crap in the threads prevents the studs from threading in 100%. Just something to be aware of!

 

[gottadiesel]

I see trouble with swapping them out if you didn't chase the threads in the block. Crap in the threads prevents the studs from threading in 100%. Just something to be aware of!

Thank you for the reply - I guess I am not thinking this would be the case if they were chased, plus all the parts went through a chemical bath at the machine shop and I have only put 7k miles on it since rebuild last spring/summer... correct me if I am wrong, just not seeing where the crap would come from in that amount of time...

---------- Post added at 06:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:29 PM ----------

That is possible to do removing one and then replacing it with the new stud and torquing it down.. How many ft lbs did you torque your ARP Bolts down to?

75lbs with moly

 

[NashMan]

i would not recommend swapping fastener with the head still on the car

but i will say studs are far better


plus you better hope they were chased first

 

[mkiiichip]

Properly installed head bolts are better than slapped on head studs, IMO.
If you dont have time, funds, or patients to do the entire head properly, then what you have is good enough. Run it till it breaks, right? You may see a fair amount of sarcasm in my post, but with the 7m, your options are, do it how you know it should be done, or do something else, and boost it till it breaks.

 

[Poodles]

This depends entirely on what headgasket was used. If it's a stock style, 100% absolutely not. Metal, well, you have a chance of it working. At this point though, I wouldn't mess with it.

If it's isn't broke...don't fix it.

 

[gottadiesel]

Properly installed head bolts are better than slapped on head studs, IMO.
If you dont have time, funds, or patients to do the entire head properly, then what you have is good enough. Run it till it breaks, right? You may see a fair amount of sarcasm in my post, but with the 7m, your options are, do it how you know it should be done, or do something else, and boost it till it breaks.

Yeah that is really the answer I am looking for... if there is not a right way to do it without pulling the head then, yes I will for sure just leave it... I have done my best so far not to take any short cuts and I do not plan to start now...

With so few miles on a fresh build, I see no real benefit in changing them "IF" there is not a right way to do it without pulling the head...

If the bolts were installed properly, threads were chased, correct lube used, correct torque, correct sequence in enough passes and re-torque done properly... is there any logical reason to make the change and what is the experience on boost levels with bolts versus studs?

Thanks again for everyone's input!

---------- Post added at 10:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:25 PM ----------

This depends entirely on what headgasket was used. If it's a stock style, 100% absolutely not. Metal, well, you have a chance of it working. At this point though, I wouldn't mess with it.

It is a Greddy, surface (both block and head) finished to an RA of about 13...

If it's isn't broke...don't fix it.

Yeah good point, in the back of my head the still small voice was saying just that lol... this is what happens when everything is working and going good... you just gotta dream up something to do that doesn't need to be touched... Thanks for the reminder!

 

[CyFi6]

You used ARP hardware regardless. Its not like you used stock bolts or something. People are making it seem like its a matter of time before it fails or something, theres nothing wrong with ARP bolts, I have yet to see anyone provide any proof that they are prone to any kind of failure.. Considering you torqued and lubed them all 100% properly I would say you are ahead of the game compared to a large percentage of people running the studs.

 

[gottadiesel]

You used ARP hardware regardless. Its not like you used stock bolts or something. People are making it seem like its a matter of time before it fails or something, theres nothing wrong with ARP bolts, I have yet to see anyone provide any proof that they are prone to any kind of failure.. Considering you torqued and lubed them all 100% properly I would say you are ahead of the game compared to a large percentage of people running the studs.

Thanks for your input! I am convinced - I will leave it all alone and just enjoy driving:icon_bigg