supra hits a wall when boost kicks in
- Thread starter 86mk3
- Start date
DUDE!!!!!!!!!!!! ive got the same damn problem and im bone stock automatic still!!!!!!!!! only thing is i have nothing after my second cat! but i had the car for 2 months running fine and all of a sudden under WOT it started back firing and bogging under boost! and i hear all this WHOOSH noise like tons of air! im figuring its a boost leak i just have no idea where its coming from.
inneedofboost;1684541 said:
Don't keep trying to boost with a leak that large. You can kill the turbo that way.
Check:
Charge pipe right off the bottom of the turbo, and the coupler at the 3000 pipe. Those are the most common leak areas.
I am another very upset supra owner with the same problem as 86mk3 . I've checked my codes and i get the same code 52. I know that the wiring on one of my knock sensors is all f**ked and i've already replaced one of the sensors itself. Another fellow supra owner i know told me that the code 52 was making my car bog/backfire under full boost because the ecu was in a "safe mode" because of the faulty knock sensor code? Is it true that this is possible? My car does sound like it has a strong whoosh of air when the turbo is spoolin but im thinking that could just be the sound coming out of my ddp?
Im pretty confident i dont have a boost leak. Also, when i first start up my car after it being shut off, the CEL wont come on, it only comes on once i start driving or rev the car past 2500-ish RPM.
Im pretty confident i dont have a boost leak. Also, when i first start up my car after it being shut off, the CEL wont come on, it only comes on once i start driving or rev the car past 2500-ish RPM.
87silverbullitt;1688496 said:
I'm having the exact same problem as well and its frustrating. After reving past 2500 rpm Engine light turns on along with code 52, 21 and 32 and hits a wall when trying too boost it. Gonna try and get code 52 and 21 fixed. I'll keep you updated and see what happens.
shaeff;1685098 said:
I agree with Shaeff. Mine came loose there once, so I put a new clamp on it. It was the last place I looked too. Keep in mind it might LOOK like it's on there, but that does'nt mean it is tight.
I've had all those issues before also, my advice is stop forcing the boost, fix all the codes (make sure it runs correctly first), then find your boost leaks (i am confident these are boost leak issues).