Just got a supra its been sitting a while and im going to rebuild the engine.. I wanna build the car for hopefully 300-350rwhp any one have some advice for ways to get decent horspower for cheap? What can the car handle without major mods? Sorry im kinda new to this. If there is any threads for this im sorry please let me know
Supra build easy horsepower
- Thread starter Larry21
- Start date
Properly rebuilt, the internals should easily handle your goals. Having said that, the 7M is a very unforgiving motor in terms of tolerances when rebuilding, especially regarding the headgasket.
Have the rear timing cover machined bolted to the block. Have the timing belt tensioner bolt torqued dow when it is decked as well. It is recommended that your machine shop use a torque plate. With the engine out, replace the EGR cooler gasket with an OEM one, as it is a PITA in the car. I would (and this is my opinion) recommend that when you reassemble the motor you use upgraded bearings (I believe Clevite is usually what people use, but not sure). I also recommend a MHG for any rebuild that will see higher than stock power, as well as ARP head studs. Follow the specifications provided by the manufacturers for head finishing and torque specs. Now would also be a good time to helicoil the head for the exhaust manifold, as these have a tendency to strip out.
When it comes to making more power, the cheapest and fastest would probably be an AFM from a lexus 4.0 V8, 550cc Injectors, Walbro 255LPH pump (Or equivelent), and an AFPR. Also, a piggyback is sometimes needed to make adjustments to the A/F ratio. Finally, it is highly recommended that you use a wideband gauge to avoid damage to the motor.
This is just the bare basics, there is a lot of good information on this site if you use the search feature. With what I have given you here, you should be able to search for more detailed information, and if you have questions you can go from there. Other than that, take your time to do things right and it will turn out great! These cars take a lot of time and money. I quit counting at $5000, and that was about 2K and 2 years before it finally was running, lol.
-AM3
Have the rear timing cover machined bolted to the block. Have the timing belt tensioner bolt torqued dow when it is decked as well. It is recommended that your machine shop use a torque plate. With the engine out, replace the EGR cooler gasket with an OEM one, as it is a PITA in the car. I would (and this is my opinion) recommend that when you reassemble the motor you use upgraded bearings (I believe Clevite is usually what people use, but not sure). I also recommend a MHG for any rebuild that will see higher than stock power, as well as ARP head studs. Follow the specifications provided by the manufacturers for head finishing and torque specs. Now would also be a good time to helicoil the head for the exhaust manifold, as these have a tendency to strip out.
When it comes to making more power, the cheapest and fastest would probably be an AFM from a lexus 4.0 V8, 550cc Injectors, Walbro 255LPH pump (Or equivelent), and an AFPR. Also, a piggyback is sometimes needed to make adjustments to the A/F ratio. Finally, it is highly recommended that you use a wideband gauge to avoid damage to the motor.
This is just the bare basics, there is a lot of good information on this site if you use the search feature. With what I have given you here, you should be able to search for more detailed information, and if you have questions you can go from there. Other than that, take your time to do things right and it will turn out great! These cars take a lot of time and money. I quit counting at $5000, and that was about 2K and 2 years before it finally was running, lol.
-AM3
After the rebuild, get an open intake, open exhaust. preferably 3" all the way from the turbo to the endtip.
Get an upgraded turbo. You can get upgraded ct26 (stock) turbos. Best is a 57 or 60 trim. 57 is more reliable, 60 trim is kinda reliable and brings you another 30whp.
Install a booscontroller and get the turbo to push around 16 psi. With the above turbo's it would bring you in the 350whp ball park.
However after upgrading the turbo and upping the boost you will have instant fuelcut.
For best results, get a wideband and piggyback fuel system like the S-AFC.
Install 550cc injectors, a lexus 1UZ-FE AFM and an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator.Set base PSI with hose removed @ 40 psi.
Bypass the J-tube.
Install an upgraded fuelpump. Don't let the 20 year old pump feed the 550's on your fresh build as it may very well destroy it.
Or you could go for just a wideband+egt and install a fuel cut defencer. But that's NOT recommended.
Search using some of the words i typed above. There is very much info on these forums.
---------- Post added at 09:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:43 AM ----------
Hmmm reading your topic title again and was thinking:
There is no such thing as easy horsepower with the 7m. Go cheap on the 7M and it will crap on you. You will then crap on the 7M calling it a bad engine.
You spent a lot of money and will end up parting your car.
So better make up your mind now. Do a good build and don't cut corners, or part your car now.
Get an upgraded turbo. You can get upgraded ct26 (stock) turbos. Best is a 57 or 60 trim. 57 is more reliable, 60 trim is kinda reliable and brings you another 30whp.
Install a booscontroller and get the turbo to push around 16 psi. With the above turbo's it would bring you in the 350whp ball park.
However after upgrading the turbo and upping the boost you will have instant fuelcut.
For best results, get a wideband and piggyback fuel system like the S-AFC.
Install 550cc injectors, a lexus 1UZ-FE AFM and an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator.Set base PSI with hose removed @ 40 psi.
Bypass the J-tube.
Install an upgraded fuelpump. Don't let the 20 year old pump feed the 550's on your fresh build as it may very well destroy it.
Or you could go for just a wideband+egt and install a fuel cut defencer. But that's NOT recommended.
Search using some of the words i typed above. There is very much info on these forums.
---------- Post added at 09:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:43 AM ----------
Hmmm reading your topic title again and was thinking:
There is no such thing as easy horsepower with the 7m. Go cheap on the 7M and it will crap on you. You will then crap on the 7M calling it a bad engine.
You spent a lot of money and will end up parting your car.
So better make up your mind now. Do a good build and don't cut corners, or part your car now.
3" exhaust from turbo back, K&N filter, Porsche or Saab BOV mod, and a manual boost controller set right at 12psi. Do that first and report your butt dyno results. Will not get you 300-350rwhp, but you will definately feel it. Have fun for a little while then go to the next stage. I would think stock fuel setup would handle those mods. If anything buy a wideband to monitor the AFR's. That will definately let you know if you need to upgrade the fuel system. Eventually you will need to, but I wouldn't start throwing money at mods that you don't currently "need".
Is your engine currently knocking? Low compression test results? What's the need for the shortblock to be rebuilt? If it doesn't need to be rebuilt then save your money for the mods listed above.
Is your engine currently knocking? Low compression test results? What's the need for the shortblock to be rebuilt? If it doesn't need to be rebuilt then save your money for the mods listed above.
12 psi is on the edge of fuelcut. that may work, and will for sure work with the stock fuel system and stock turbo.
it will not work anymore when you upgrade your turbo.
it will not work anymore when you upgrade your turbo.
Everybody is right on target with their suggestions here.
And like suprapowaz said- getting a good intake and exhaust will not get you to 350hp, but it will get you at least 30+hp over stock. Everyone is suggesting the 550's & Lexus MAF, as they are a proven power maker, but I also humbly suggest a MAFT. I have the basic MAFT 1.0, and it allowed me to get rid of the stock AFM, and I set it up in blow-thru mode, so I can have an atmospheric blowoff valve. The other benefit to MAFT vs. Lex AFM is that I can adjust AFR on it at a basic level.
And like suprapowaz said- getting a good intake and exhaust will not get you to 350hp, but it will get you at least 30+hp over stock. Everyone is suggesting the 550's & Lexus MAF, as they are a proven power maker, but I also humbly suggest a MAFT. I have the basic MAFT 1.0, and it allowed me to get rid of the stock AFM, and I set it up in blow-thru mode, so I can have an atmospheric blowoff valve. The other benefit to MAFT vs. Lex AFM is that I can adjust AFR on it at a basic level.
+1 on the maft... I am gunna be using the v1.0 maft when I Put my engine togther... It's a nice upgrade for cheap... Allowing you to control your AFR somewhat... And get rid of the AFM allowing a lil quicker spool up...
He's probably talking about an ajustment screw in the lower part of the afm. the part that lets unmetered air in.
In the supra that screw is capped off (if it is even in there, i never looked). When doing the lex/riemer mod (i.e. 550cc injectors and lexus 1uz-fe afm) you can ajust the screw to get the car to idle properly.
Some AFM's have the screw open, others need some persuasion to get to the screw (use a drill).
But fiddling with the stock afm will not help you one tiny bit performance wise. your afm was configured to run with your current stock setup by toyota. Fiddling with it will only result in making your car run shitty.
In the supra that screw is capped off (if it is even in there, i never looked). When doing the lex/riemer mod (i.e. 550cc injectors and lexus 1uz-fe afm) you can ajust the screw to get the car to idle properly.
Some AFM's have the screw open, others need some persuasion to get to the screw (use a drill).
But fiddling with the stock afm will not help you one tiny bit performance wise. your afm was configured to run with your current stock setup by toyota. Fiddling with it will only result in making your car run shitty.
Well, the 22R had a flapper style airflow meter, something not even used on the 7mgte.
Sometimes people mess with them on the NA's, but like metioned above, it wouldn't help with our cars.
Sometimes people mess with them on the NA's, but like metioned above, it wouldn't help with our cars.
Let her breathe, baby..
intake, IC piping, intercooler, down pipe and exhaust can not only net you a few extra horses, but response goes up, as does PSI..
here's a good link to give you a rough idea..
http://www.hurstwood.com/supra/suprahkschart.php
intake, IC piping, intercooler, down pipe and exhaust can not only net you a few extra horses, but response goes up, as does PSI..
here's a good link to give you a rough idea..
http://www.hurstwood.com/supra/suprahkschart.php
Larry21;1735428 said:
What kind of budget did you give yourself? Can you turn your own wrenches?
FFIM. after intake and exhaust, one of the most beneficial imho. better selection of intercoolers, shorter piping runs, cleans up the engine bay alot. however, not for the faint of heart.