Supra 90 pressure plate....

Bigboby

New Member
Mar 18, 2006
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Québec

Bigboby

New Member
Mar 18, 2006
6
0
0
Québec
I read and some persons says that Act or clutch master were better... Stage 2 is good... but it worth the cash to take the stage 4 ???? or it's useless...

Anybody can give me some opinions ???
 

Supracentral

Active Member
Mar 30, 2005
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You said 260 HP? Is that crank or on a chasssis dyno?

What type of driving will be done?

Daily Driver?
Road Course?
Drag Racing?

All of this goes into the consideration as to which clutch to buy.

We need more information before we can give you decent advice.
 

Bigboby

New Member
Mar 18, 2006
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0
Québec
Supracentral said:
You said 260 HP? Is that crank or on a chasssis dyno?

What type of driving will be done?

Daily Driver?
Road Course?
Drag Racing?

All of this goes into the consideration as to which clutch to buy.

We need more information before we can give you decent advice.

The car stock is 230 i think... there is a 3" muffler... and a air intake... so around 250 hp.... i want to do like a little bit of everything.... daly driver... drag and maybe drift...

So the stage two is the best for me... or should i go for the 3 or 4 or something else....???
 

Supracentral

Active Member
Mar 30, 2005
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If you aren't going to mod the car much further a Stage II is probably all you need. I've driven the Stage III however and I found it very easy to drive on the street.

Doing a proper break in on these clutches is the 100% most important part. Once they are broken in they last a long time. If improperly broken in (i.e. - driven hard early) - they wear out quickly.
 

aye mate

Hiatus over.
Mar 30, 2005
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Maryland
No launches, don't let the clutch out with the engine over 2500rpms. Shift as smooth as possible and do not power shift (shift without letting off gas) for at least 500 miles. To be safe I don't even boost for at least 500 miles.
 

Supracentral

Active Member
Mar 30, 2005
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500 Miles of fairly mellow driving. Slippage is the thing you really want to avoid here. No "holding" the car on a hill with the clutch & throttle instead of the brake (something you should NEVER do anyway). No hard launches. No boost or full throttle runs. You don't want to overheat or "glaze" the clutch surfaces.

The whole idea behind breaking in a clutch is to engage the disc in a controlled, consistent manner to ensure the disc, pressure plate and flywheel all "wear in" and make full contact over the entire surface of the friction areas. 500 miles of mellow driving should do it.

P.S. - Oh yea, and get the flywheel resurfaced... I'm AMAZED by how many people (either through ignorance or being cheap) skip this VERY important step during clutch replacement. One side of the clutch rides on the brand new pressure plate, the other side rides on your ratty old, uneven worn out flywheel. Take it to a machine shop and have them resurface it. It will make your clutch last a LOT longer than it would if you didn't.