Suggestions on Fuel Setup.

[10secdream]

I am looking for opinions on how to do my fuel setup. Some things to keep in mind are that I am looking for simplicity and cost effectiveness. The following are items that I acquired when I purchased my new setup and now I just have to add the finishing touches.

-850cc Blitz Injectors
-Modified 1JZ rail with dual -8 feed and -10 return
-Aeromotive -10 inlet FPR
-Dual -8 feed down to a -8 Y splitter to a -8 fuel filter

The plan is to use the stock return line but the fuel feed hardlines will not be used. So far these are my ideas and I am looking for the best and most realistic one. I am also open up to suggestions.

1) Walbro 255 intank pump and add a -8 feed line inplace of the stock feedline. I will then run a -8 line to a Walbro inline pump and then that will go to the fuel filter. I currently have a Walbro 255 sitting at home new in package not installed yet.
2) Bosch 044 modified to fit in the the tank and then run to a -8 feed line. This seems like a good idea but may be a lot of work to get it to fit properly.
3) This is the more expensive route as lots of the stuff I currently have will not be used. Bosch 044 inline pump being fed off a surge tank and a Walbro 255 pumping to the surge tank.

HP goals are currently around 550whp on pump and meth. I could get away with a single pump but I have to redo my fuel system anyways so I might as well do it right the first time.

 

[aphxero]

Sounds like a ton of work for just 550whp. Stock fuel lines should be okay. Walbro fed by surge with stock pump in tank should do?

 

[mechanix0889]

go with twin walbros....

 

[Supracentral]

You said simplicity and cost effectiveness.

What you're doing is major overkill for 550 RWHP.

Your injectors are huge for that power goal.
Dual intank walbros will do the job.
Use the stock feed & return, add one additional line to feed the other end of the rail.
Run clean power back there direct from the battery and use the stock fuel pump power to trigger a relay.

This works, and will cover your HP goals easily.

(What are your plans for engine management? How are you planning on managing injectors that are almost 50% over rated for your HP goals?)

 

[mrsuprafreak]

You said simplicity and cost effectiveness.

What you're doing is major overkill for 550 RWHP.

Your injectors are huge for that power goal.
Dual intank walbros will do the job.
Use the stock feed & return, add one additional line to feed the other end of the rail.
Run clean power back there direct from the battery and use the stock fuel pump power to trigger a relay.

This works, and will cover your HP goals easily.

(What are your plans for engine management? How are you planning on managing injectors that are almost 50% over rated for your HP goals?)

+1

 

[cruzinbill]

ok so would one walbro at 14.4v not be sufficiant? would kinda like to know since im building mine to around 5-550 in march

 

[10secdream]

Ok I guess I should have made myself a little more clear. First off I am using a Stinger EMS to control the fuel. Second off I want to create a fuel setup that is overkill because I plan I making much more than 550rwhp. My hope is to run 500-550rwhp on 94 octane and meth. On race gas I should be making over 600rwhp. Turbo is a Apexi IHI C7 which is roughly the size of a T67.

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

I think your injectors are way to large as well you want the smallest as possible because you will loose resolution in your lower duty cycles like idle if it will idle well I dont know if your keeping stepper motor doing cam work or going all sequential. Those other factors will effect idle also!

You dont really want more then 550cc on side feed injectors with the oem rail duel feed or not the side feed design and flow inside the oem rail sucks and is a waste to go more then 550s

The largest injectors any 1JZ would need 750 thats with mods supporting 600-700hp peak range because it will rarely max duty cycle and you will rarely boost more then 15-17psi on pump gas. I wouldnt use 750s unless you could get a top feed rail.

For fuel delivery a sumped oem tank kept with more then half full with fuel with a1000 aeromotive or duel feed walbro setup is best.

your -10 to your regulator is a little to large -6 - -8 for the regulator tap is ideal.
stock lines are good for 500-550hp if you want more just use a -10 then "Y" the -10 line to (2) -8 into the rail from both ends.

Keep your vent line you will need it

you could use your old fuel feedline as a return line if you take the inline filter out and Y it coming from the regulator.

The only way I would ever go near an 850cc injector on a 1jz head is if it was in a top feed rail and with a 2JZ bottom end & a GT40 or larger single turbo with plans of making more then 700whp.

 

[IJ.]

1000cc RC's for less HP here

 

[Supracentral]

Yea, but you're controlling them with a Motec ya bastard...

 

[IJ.]

Yea, but you're controlling them with a Motec ya bastard...

And it does it so very well

Some guys on the MoTeC forums have been reporting that running oversize injectors at lower duty cycle is yielding more power than the other way around, no real explanation as to why though.

 

[Supracentral]

Indeed. It's the precision of the Motec I'm sure. This is why I asked the original question. Sure, invest in a Motec M600 or M800 and you've got a ton of flexibility and control. But an awful lot of guys around here go with a S-AFC. Not calling that "bad", but it sure is primitive compared to what you can do with what you are running.

A lot of people seem to consider the engine management after the fact, and that is a mistake, IMO...

 

[IJ.]

At the start I did have some control issues around idle as the duty cycle was so low on the big squirts that as soon as any of the - compensations kicked in it's lope around like a top fuel engine, solved that by dropping the base pressure and raising the idle duty.

Never used an alphabet controller but by their very nature I just can't see how they could ever be accurate, all round drivability is hugely important to me and you need something like a MoTeC to get close to OEM.