Stumbling under boost, and no gauge lights.

[Loki]

Well as some fo you may know I succesfully got my 7MGE-T running. I'm using the NA block and head with all the turbo electronics and turbo stuff. The car runs good, but when I'm driving and I'm under boost right around 4700rpm the car stumbles. It almost feels like fuel cut, but I know it's not. I'm only boosting at 10psi.

I am getting code 34, which leads me to believe I have a boost leak. Would that make the car stumble under boost?

Also I have no gauge lights. When I turn the lights on I hear a click and then nothing. I also have no turn signals. I did replace my stock temp and boost gauges with aftermarket ones. I did read in one of Jdub's posts about how you need the boost gauge drive circuit box to complete the circut so I jumped it how he had shown in the post and still nothing. All my fuses check out fine as well.

I have all the dash warning lights, my tach and speedo work great. When the car is urned on and my climate control lights up but when I go to turn the light on it goes away but the glove box light still comes on when i turn the lights on. Could this be something to do with my dimmer switch?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I wold really like to get these things worked out so I can get it back on the road.

 

[SevenMKIII]

Code 34 is boost leak, not sure if it would make it stumble as much as just a lack of power. You can reach fuel cut at <10psi, so that is a possibilty. Check all vaccuum hoses/ic couplers etc. Is it pouring black smoke when you accelerate? That would be a reference to a boost leak as well. Search for a boost leak tester, easy to make like <$10 and works very well.

-Chris

edit: Forgot to mention gauges. I'm not sure on the way you have it, I read that same link but since it doesn't work for you, try hooking all of your gauges up to a switch so you have control over the power to them.

 

[jetjock]

So you're getting code 34, what the engine does feels like fuel cut but you know it's not, and you want to know if this will make the car stumble. Am I understanding that right?

 

[shaeff]

When the car is urned on and my climate control lights up but when I go to turn the light on it goes away but the glove box light still comes on when i turn the lights on. Could this be something to do with my dimmer switch?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I wold really like to get these things worked out so I can get it back on the road.

so when you turn your lights on, the dash lights go out, but the climate control stays on?

check to make sure that your hazzard light switch is plugged in.

it'll do just that if it's not.

-shaeff

 

[Loki]

So you're getting code 34, what the engine does feels like fuel cut but you know it's not, and you want to know if this will make the car stumble. Am I understanding that right?

The reason I don't think it's fuel cut is because I've never hit fuel cut this low. I don't see how just swapping the block and head would make me hit fuel cut so low, every other time I've hit fuel cut it's been at 14psi. I'll try and post up a video of the car driving so you can see what it's doing, but guess it's time to start checking my vacumn hoses and ic pipes.


Shaeff, wow I feel kind of dumb if it's just because of the hazard switch not being plugged in. I stil have everything apart inside so there is a good possiblity of that being the problem.

 

[jetjock]

Just yankin' yer chain a bit Loki. My point was you're giving the ECU too much credit. It's a computer and a pretty stupid one at that. If it's setting code 34 it's also shutting the injectors off. In other words it *is* fuel cut. Treat it as such. Look for anything that would cause excess flow through the AFM or a shifted AFM signal itself. My bet is on an induction leak somewhere. If not piping than an intake manifold gasket maybe.

Prince George is a great place btw. Beautiful country and nice folks. I've fond memories of working there in the 80s.

 

[Loki]

Well I'm going to be going over all the IC pipes the net time I'm down with the car. Also going to check over every hose on the car. I will find what's leaking.

The upper intake manifold gasket is on my list of things to change. I'm just trying to wait till I can pick up a new wiring harness so I don'thave to do it twice.

I'm also still trying to get over how dumb Shaeff made me feel. I've been messing with the lights forever and couldn't get anything but I also haven't put the das completly back together either....stupid hazard switch. I really hope that's it ad once I plug it in everything works.

 

[CBLEGUY]

The car runs good, but when I'm driving and I'm under boost right around 4700rpm the car stumbles. It almost feels like fuel cut, but I know it's not. I'm only boosting at 10psi.

I am getting code 34, which leads me to believe I have a boost leak. Would that make the car stumble under boost?

My car is doing the exact same thing. My AF is as far rich from STOICH as possible, and falls on its face at about 4500 WOT. If I keep the boost down below 7 or 8 psi, no problem feels like a dream, above that, forget about it... I am going to build one of these boost leak detectors today..

 

[viper92086]

i had this same exact prob when i went na-t, it turned out to be a bad coilpack.. try this while the car is running slowly take each spark plug wire off and compare the sparks they are making. On my bad coil the spark was very weak but the car drove fine as long as i didn't get on it. After the new coil pack everything was golden.