Stub'z 85 Celica subaru Swap.

[pimptrizkit]

well guys, i kinda lacked off on my old build thread, got some tickets, and pulled the motor out of the car, swapped out the broken tranny, and left my motor to chill.

I've pulled some strings, and gather some fund's and this is what i have :love:

i have recently (well about 6 weeks ago) picked up this black 85 P-type celica supra, the car is a re-spray, 5spd, 4.30 lsd car

i paid 1200 for her, and motor ran alright, didn't over heat, just ticked and missed, when i test drove it i swear the missing went away.. either that or i was just blinded by lust for such a sexy car.:sarcasm:



the car has been driving me up the wall though, after i bought it it started to run worse and worse, and miss more, really feeling like i bought a sexy lemon...
did a compression test and every thing seemed fine, 155 across the board, some in 160 range..

my friend really thought it was the injectors so i let him swap out the set, and i watched and laughed.. and drank LOL..
it still didn't fix the problem..

i did a tune up, plugs, wire's,cap and rotor, and plugs gaped at .031 just some ngk coppers. and triple checked ignition timing and cam timing.

still poopie Subaru.

did a cylinder balance test, by pulling plug's to find the dead cylinder and cylinder 1 isn't firing right or at all.



Well, what can i say, i told my friends and family so long as i didn't have to open the motor up i wouldn't swap it... :biglaugh:





so i would like to present to Supra Mania, my Next maniac supra Creation.

A 85 Celica Supra Swap with 7mgte under the hood.

mission statement;
Fix the poor running condition of the car, add some power, and hope to get the best fuel milage as possible with fuel reaching 5 dollars a gallon soon.

-Front mount intercooler
-2.5inch Hard pipe's
-3inch exhuast,smog free.
-walbro fuel pump
-7mgte & R154 from my mark3
-maft pro
-57trim from Groub buy.
-Fidanza Fw
-5mge motor mounts.
-shorted front half of r154 drive shaft, total 2peice length of 52 inches. and every thing balenced at the DL shop.
-Keep A/c and Vac and fill my self.
-mount mark3 a/c compressor line's or have custom one's made.
-install matrix 3.5 rs alarm
-mod tranny tunnle for R154
-Fix broken wheel stud on driver Rear.
-Replace hood struts
-Fix antena
-coil over kit/custom coil over kit..
-front camber plates
-rear camber/toe kit.
-stereo,amp, atleast 1 sub, and update the speakers.
-tint windows.
-82-85 auto cross member.
-jdm qauter vents.
-Hid Kit, Ck's Kit, HI-Low kit 6k w/ hella vision plus h4 housings.
-custom make a sub harness to swap 7mgte into a celica supra.




And this is where the Fun begins.:evil2:

 

[ForcedTorque]

That's a good lookin car! Why are the MKII's getting so cheap these days? Check to be sure your entire tubing has no leaks.

 

[pimptrizkit]

thats a good question, but i dont know the awnser, i do know , i paid more for this car, then i have for both of my last two mark3's combined.



FT; are you talking about the intercooler pipe or the stock stuff in the car?

 

[pimptrizkit]

here's one from when i brought her home.

after the first wash.

 

[pimptrizkit]

i figured out the drive shaft tonight for the r154 swap.

if you just need it on the road and dont or cant have a shaft made, you can use a mk3 front half of the drive shaft with a center flange from the stock mk2 drive shaft and use stock rear shaft.

obviously if your u-joints are bad in the mk2 rear shaft, you might consider a 1 peice , or even a newer mk2 rear shaft.

now i've looked at this route and probaly will go this way untill the rear end gives.
if you have a 1 peice made, you use the mk3 r154 or auto drive shaft, for the front yoke, you have a drive line specialist cut & balence the shaft.

and use the rear mk3 flange with joint,

doing this will upgrade you to larger flanges and u-joints, and a kicker of the u-joints are removable.


for the rear flange, so far what i have figured out is you need to disasemble an mk3 drive line, pull the center flane off the front shaft, and pull the dust cover off using a punch and hamer, just need to walk around it nothing drastic come's right off.


i belive this part still need's finish work, im not sure if it's the right O.D or smooth enough for a seal to work.

but it does Fit the MK3 U-Joint flange, And the MK2 pinion spline.



i have also read that trucks came with the right diff flange for the mk3 u-joint and the mk2 diff, but the truck diff i came across has 4.10's in it and has the same flange size, but is the wrong spline ID. it was from a 87 4wd p/u rear diff.




------------------

sum it up for you guys, I HAVE A WORKING DRIVE SHAFT!:biglaugh:

it spins on start up and comes to a stop,no sound's; noise

really sucks im not sure what to do.. i;ve only had it a month or so, and it's never gotten hot enough you couldn't touch it..

i've already pulled it off, and wont be running it, no reason to waste all the money i spent to upgrade it.

 

[tlo86]

the car looks good! is there play in the wheel?

 

[ViR2]

why dies the subject say "subaru" in it?

 

[Poodles]

why dies the subject say "subaru" in it?

I've been trying to figure that out since he made the thread, was hoping he would shed some light on it later :biglaugh:

 

[Facime]

I believe he was referring to how it ran when he got it, as it was missing and amde it sound like a subaru?

Jim, that will be cool with a 7M in it. I met a kid here in corvallis last night that has a couple mk2's and he has a complete 5spd setup Im going to get from him this coming week. He is also doing a 7M swap, and apparently is just down to wiring it now. He said he was having "junkie" do it.

Im glad to see more mk'2 coming together in Oregon (I consider Vantucky to be Oregon, lol). It seems there are alot up in the Seattle area, we need to push the membership this way a little. If we have a few 7M mk2's to show these mk3 guys were the deal is maybe more will regress.

 

[pimptrizkit]

LOL i hear yeah pete, infact i will probaly 7m swap mk2's for fun now, and probaly do one or two just to sell .

i have the wiring pretty much figured out, and did it all my self.
i mean she starts and run's and no Cel is on, so im just fixing a few dissconnected wires and wiring up the wide band again.


Yeah, it ran on 5 cylinders when i bought the car, it missed when it was cold, went away when i test drove it warm, and when i brought the car home i fiddled with enough stuff to find it was an internal issue so i yanked that hoe right outa there.:biglaugh:

MY Subaru is out!

Altenator wire's

they wire straight in, just have to mod the location, when you have the fuse box taken apart for wiring up plug C1 you will find it a good time to wire in the alt too.

here in this picture i solded the Large charge wire off the stud to the main white batt wire, i keep it on the same side of the fuse it was, and the pigtail i used had 2 black wire's coming off it so i connected each end to the white wire end's i cut. kinda look's like a wish bone.

the whole that's needed to fit the R154

i made two quick slit's with the sawsal and bent the metal back and under look's cleaner and isn't to sharp.


About here is where you need to pound out the tranny tunel,you need to make it wider then the tranny, i belive the tranny sit's about 10-10.5 inches wide.

 

[ERA]

Sweet set of wheels. Take the centercaps off
Good luck with the build. A must see when done.

 

[pimptrizkit]

the car looks good! is there play in the wheel?

no shaft play, no noise, but when installed on the car you can feel some rough spot's where it doesn't want to spin, like a bad bearing..


i dont have my charge pipe's on , but i didn't think that would make a difference since the turbo is spun from the exhaust wheel.


i have a stock turbo with chipped blade's im going to run untill i can figure out whats wrong with my 57GT....

 

[pimptrizkit]

Sweet set of wheels. Take the centercaps off
Good luck with the build. A must see when done.

their already off, when i bought this car a few week's ago the previouse owner didn't tighten the wheels right, and i had a wheel start slappin. i got it all fixed up, the center cap's had stripped skrew heads too!

 

[Highnitro]

i cant wait til this is done, its gunna be badass. u better give me a ride in it. give me a call if u want me to stop by and help tonight.

 

[pimptrizkit]

 

[cartel1_950]

i sold my 7M to a guy with a MKii. would be a great project car/sleeper

 

[pimptrizkit]

i sold my 7M to a guy with a MKii. would be a great project car/sleeper

if you only knew, you would have swaped the 7m into the mk2:evil2:

 

[pimptrizkit]

few thing's finished today; intercooler pipes are done. and i moved the license plate further to the Right. intercooler is also mounted, exhaust has been done. still need to weld wide band bung in, and wire it in.

also purchased a 90* 1/2 npt pushloc fitting for my oil filter relocation, the straight fitting for the return? was collasping with the lower charge pipe on. lucky i noticed it before we made any attemps at starting.

also oil pressure gauge was wire up.

 

[pimptrizkit]

3.2 qt's into the tranny tonight.

finished the hard pipes up today. as well as cleaning them, rattling sockets and washing them out, and pulling rag's through them.

tightened all the t-bolts and double checked my couplers.

double check'ed the routing of my oil filter relocation and looked for kink's and collasped hose, all look's fine, after i fixed a collapse yesterday, installed a 90, and had to also reverse the line's.

NO, i didn't Run the Engine with the line's Reversed.
ALL Times when the engine was ran Before Adding the Oil Filter, i had the line LOOPPED.

i now have the oil filter mounted behind the front bumper.


i have managed to get my turbo to behaive better.

it seem's the thick packing greese the turbo rebuilded used, doesn't want to clesn out of the turbo untill it starts to warm up and oil pressure raises.
i found modulating the throttle between 1200-2000rpm and making sure the turbo didn't stop, seems to have freed the turbo up and working how it should in ten minutes of warm up with intercooler pipes on.

there has been a couple time's i have had the shaft stop while idling aftetr installing the pipe's but that was befor it reach op temp.

since a good warm up, it seems to idle / spin fine, and spin down how i would imagine it would..

this turbo makes a very noticble choping of the air.... :love:


Video to come Tomorrow After Noon, or Evening.




thing's left to do.

- find my shifter.
- brake inspection.
- longer heat cycle's & check for leaks before i test drive.
- find any vac leaks.
- make intake pipe.
- weld bung for lc-1 & wire lc-1
- re-install dash & and double check for broken wire's to be fixed.
- think about new speakers before dash goes in.
- install my walbro.

 

[pimptrizkit]

took her up and down the road today, got some video. i'll do my best to have it loaded after the motor cycle race my nephew is in.:evil2:



she still hittin fuel cut, but Dam what a difference this motor make's over a missin 5m.