Here is what you need. (NO Phil at Flatlander needed, or there to overcharge your credit card, and then tell you it's not his problem....)
Crank is a custom modified stock one from Crankshaftspecialist.com out of TN. Very nice folks to deal with, tell them Greg says "Hi" when you call to order your crank. (My hard chrome repairs have worked great thus far....)
What you do is send them your stock 6M or 7M crank, and ask them to increase the stroke by 6.5MM and regrind the rod journals to the same size as a stock 327sbc. (Easy to source bearings, and since they are slightly smaller than the stock 7M sized bearings, the journals are smaller, leaving more room inside the engine for the stroke you just added.)
Ok, time to order up the rods. Call Pauter, and then ask them for the following.
6" long rods.
327 Small block Chevy rod size with HONDA pin size on the small end.
Then call ROSS or JE. (Your choice, but those lighter coated JE pistons are looking mighty fine in my opinion, and if I have to replace the pistons at any time going forward, I'll use them v/s the ROSS ones I have now.) You need to explain your needs, that you want HONDA upgraded pins because they are smaller in diameter and thus lighter, and allow you to push the pin bore up closer to the crown as a result. You need to give them your engine information so they can calculate the pin bore to crown height so your pistons have the right CR. (I reccomend 9:1, but that's only if your going to coat them, and the head with a thermal barrier to limit the chance of melting them down.)
Ok, so now you have to machine your block to clear the rods as they spin around inside there. Your going to need to clearance the oil pump mount quite bit, some of the inner rails, and the edges of all the piston bores, or the shoulders of the rods will hit the bottem of the bores... All of this costs money, and it takes time and a mill, or a steady hand with a grinder. (We used a mill, and ended up doing two blocks, so I belive there is a block ready to go as a stroker here in boise if anyone's interested....)
So, to assemble your short block, you will get your modifed stock crank back, and your custom rods and pistons. You need to hang one piston without rings, and after the engine has been bored out to the right size for that piston, start checking for clearance on all the places each rod/piston can hit. Don't forget to clearance your oil pump drive shaft. Mine barely hit the rod shoulder, so it had to be turned in a lathe for clearance.
There is very little left of the oil pump mount, and you even have to remove some material from the oil pump. (Since I had access to a mill, and we were feeling crazy anyway, we totally modified the oil pump outlet to a larger size AN10, and I changed the block oil system so it's external filter/cooler only. You can't just spin on a filter anymore as we plugged the galley feed to the filter boss, and just exited the block a the NA cooler bypass fitting. See the attached photos.)
So, can you do another stroker? Or could you support ASSHOLES like Phil/Flatlander, and buy stuff already assembled by his shop? Sure, but it's not cheap either way. Personally I'm never doing business with Phil again, but it's your money.
